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Author Topic: Oil Pressure and Engine Removal  (Read 6955 times)
Rod
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« on: January 04, 2015, 10:58:09 AM »
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Hi All.

Happy New year to you all. With holidays comes those jobs we have been holding off for some time. One of many that I want to address with my ute (grey motor) is the oil pressure light coming on at idle when motor is hot. I have read many posts concerning this and have come to the conclusion I need to remove the oil pump and check the pressure relief valve. I may need to overhaul the pump. I will contact Automotive Surplus tomorrow as I understand with a post last year that they were getting kits made.

I suspect there is something going on with the pump as when I change gears and put the motor under load I temporarily get a "tinny" type of sound coming from the right / rear motor region. It maybe a big end but its not a knocking sound. (I will check big ends). Interestingly the motor is running the best it ever has. Mileage could not be any better and its not using any oil at. Frustrating! I have changed the sensors a couple of times and this works for a while until the new sensors "wear in".

I don't want to remove the engine if I can't get away with it (any suggestions on doing sump removal with motor left in??) but I think I need to do it. I have removed motors numerous times and have used the mounting points on the head, manifold, water pump attaching points etc... My dilemma is I don't want to disturb the head or water pump. Has anyone got any suggestions on how I can remove the motor with this in mind. If I was to remove the rocker gear, would the rocker gear mounting points be strong enough as a mounting point without stripping the thread?

Any suggestions.

Cheers

Rod
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Maco
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« Reply #1 on: January 04, 2015, 11:41:04 AM »
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Hi Rod,

There is a lifting cradle which hooks around & under the manifold, by using this you will not disturb any components.

Maybe someone down your way can lend you one.

Cheers
John
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mcl1959
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« Reply #2 on: January 04, 2015, 12:03:34 PM »
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Rod, is it a strong red light or just a half strength flickering light?  The latter is normal for a hot grey with just normal wear.
If a cradle is not available I would use a gearbox attaching bolt and manifold mounting bolt
Ken
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Harv
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« Reply #3 on: January 04, 2015, 01:54:34 PM »
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Rod,

An alternative to using the GMH lifting cradle is to use a soft sling. Run the sling under the inlet or exhaust manifold and back up again. This is the way I have been lifting mine of late, and feels safer than the GMH cradle I have. You could probably do the same with a wire sling or length of chain.

Cheers,
Harv
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Rod
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« Reply #4 on: January 04, 2015, 02:57:21 PM »
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Thanks Chaps for your replies. I should have mentioned at the beginining that I am currently running extractors so the cradle may present some problems.

Since I posted this I went and had a look in the old manual again. It goes through the process of removing the sump with engine kept in the vechicle. I thought this couldnt be done as the motor sits to low to the front end. Can it be done this way?

Ken the light flickers only once the oil gets warm but as the temperature increases (both motor and air) it tends to be more solid. I know if I was to change the oil it would rectify the problem but only temporarily until the oil starts to wear.

Cheers Rod
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collecta
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« Reply #5 on: January 04, 2015, 03:34:10 PM »
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 Hi Rod, how old is the sender unit? Check sender for seepage around where plastic meets metal body this will cause light to flicker at idle when hot, as it will lose pressure.
 Also cheap insurance just to replace.
cheers
Scott
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Rod
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« Reply #6 on: January 04, 2015, 05:47:35 PM »
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Thanks Scott. I will check. I did replace it about 12 months ago. I suspect the newer versions dont have the same tolerances of original units.

Cheers

Rod
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Neil FE Van
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« Reply #7 on: January 04, 2015, 08:13:52 PM »
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I would try an oil pressure gauge before doing anything else.

 Neil.
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Gary C
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« Reply #8 on: January 04, 2015, 08:55:51 PM »
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Rod, I have removed my oil pump several times with engine in, its pretty easy really hardest part is getting sump gasket to seal after installation.

I also have rebuilt a couple of oil pumps and found chev m29 oil pump from america cheaper than original rebuild kit, the m29 gears fit your pump.

I too would  also put a gauge on before all that but.

My engine comes out regular and a chain on the last exhaust stud and the thermostat housing works a treat.

Gary
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Rod
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« Reply #9 on: January 16, 2015, 01:30:01 PM »
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Once again thanks all.

An update - I decided to get the rebuild kit for the pump from Auto Surplus. I took the sump off while leaving the motor in the car. I think it was quicker doing it that way but was it easier? Not sure lying on your back kinking your neck is any easier. Would I do it again if I had to? Possibly would because I think it was quicker.

On pulling down the pump I didnt notice much wear in the gears. However there was some wear in one spot particularly on the relief valve and 3-4 coils were worn down on one side. In addition the length of the spring was about 5mm shorter compared to the new spring and one I got from a good second hand pump. One other thing I noticed which I don't think was helping things was that there was a gasket between the main body and the bottom of the pump. The 4 screws werent entirely tight either. The manual doesn't indicate a gasket. I then referred to the gregories and they indicate that a gasket is used on the FX and later model holdens. I wonder if it was sucking some air at this point.

While I had the sump off I replaced the big end bearings as I had a new set which I have had for some time. While I was at it I replaced the rocker gear with a set that had minimal wear. I primed the pump and the light went out straight way. I took the ute for a road trip yesterday and every time I came to traffic lights, stop / give way signs I waited with baited breath for the light to come on. With much relief the light remained off. I left the old pressure switch in even though I have purchased a new one.

I am sure that it was a combination of the kit, big end bearings, rocker gear and new oil that resolved this issue. I will see how things go as the oil ages.

With holidays fast running out, I still have some jobs to do. One pressing issue is the brakes locking up when there is moisture in the air. Maybe need to start another thread.

Oh, the "tinny" sound wasnt resolved entirely - bugger. The more I think about it I think it maybe the vacuum advance line or another pipe rattling somewhere. Never ends!

Cheers

Rod
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Gary C
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« Reply #10 on: January 16, 2015, 08:13:10 PM »
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glad to hear you got to the bottom of it Rod

Gary
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Rod
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« Reply #11 on: January 17, 2015, 01:46:55 PM »
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Thanks Gary. Yes I did get to the "bottom" it. I assume the pun was intended.

Thanks for the heads up in regards to the Chevy M29. I did look at getting one from the States but I was on a time frame not to mention that they were going to be more expensive than the rebuild kit particularly taking postage and the poorer exchange rate into account. When I searched around for options you were the only one I could find that mentioned the M29. I will definitely store that away for future reference.

Cheers

Rod
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