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Author Topic: Norman Supercharger  (Read 25867 times)
Gary C
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« on: November 26, 2011, 12:51:08 PM »
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Hi all, I just received these superchargers after buying them 12 months ago.
Not sure if they can be restored or not but the larger one has Norman stamped on it and the smaller one has no name but has L96/105 stamped on one end.I was hoping I could put the smaller one on my grey. The larger one weighs a ton.If anybody has any idea on their ID or who may be able to help to restore these that would be great.

Thanks Gary.



The red one is the smaller of the 2
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« Reply #1 on: November 26, 2011, 03:52:36 PM »
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would look great gary mounted up on a dummy motor.... Wink
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Gary C
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« Reply #2 on: December 05, 2011, 11:18:00 AM »
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I have found a bit of damage to the liner in the supercharger I intend to restore, does anybody know what material available today that would better suit the liner than the original? Also I would like to  source a more efficient vane material other than the bakelite.
If anyone has any experience with putting 1 of these things together or knows of someone who could pour some light on the subject it would be appreciated. I have looked at all photos and read all articles re Norman Superchargers available on the net. The lubrication of the supercharger and  top of the bores seems to be a major problem that could be reduced with more efficient materials to reduce friction and heat
Gary.
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Gary C
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« Reply #3 on: December 08, 2011, 06:48:38 PM »
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Anybody know where I can get a race type harmonic balancer made to suit grey with pulleys for three v belts?

Thanks, Gary.
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« Reply #4 on: December 08, 2011, 09:25:15 PM »
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gday gary  
good score there Cool Cool

im in the middle of fitting my norman  to the EK  Cool
for the crank pully  if you change the harmonic ballancer to the newer type grey motor one
(similar style to the red motor with the 3 threaded holes in it)  go look for a 4cy commy they have a 3 row belt pully on the crank it will bolt straight on to the grey balancer
or you can run gilmer pullys  
i like the 3 row vbelts looks more old skool  Grin

you can make new vanes out of circuit board material you should be able to buy it fairly thick still
thats what my new ones are made from

you can buy lube adatives from race fuel places mix it in with the fuel  works a treat you  can even get scented ones http://shop.viperizerracing.com/product.sc;jsessionid=13B404F72BBAD5D8C07A3265C12A4E15.qscstrfrnt04?productId=4&categoryId=3


cheers dave
« Last Edit: December 08, 2011, 09:33:21 PM by ekdave » Logged

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« Reply #5 on: December 08, 2011, 10:58:30 PM »
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im in the middle of fitting my norman  to the EK  Cool

Only in the middle? So it's not going to be finished for 5 more years  Tongue
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« Reply #6 on: December 08, 2011, 11:00:21 PM »
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well its in the middle of the final few things lol

you need to buy more parts off me so i can finish it  Grin
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Gary C
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« Reply #7 on: December 08, 2011, 11:17:53 PM »
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Thanks Dave, I will sniff around for the pulleys,  Have you checked out that 3inch (SU type)norman carby in gum tree for $3500, crazy bit of gear.

Gary.
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« Reply #8 on: December 09, 2011, 10:57:41 PM »
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Thanks Dave, I will sniff around for the pulleys,  Have you checked out that 3inch (SU type)norman carby in gum tree for $3500, crazy bit of gear.

Gary.
That would be the twin needle SU very rare but $3500  Roll Eyes Roll Eyes Roll Eyes Roll Eyes Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked......FC427......
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« Reply #9 on: December 10, 2011, 11:02:10 AM »
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you can make new vanes out of circuit board material you should be able to buy it fairly thick still
thats what my new ones are made from

cheers dave

That is interesting, what is the impact of exposure to fuel ? Another option would be carbon, not sure where you would scource, but i do know these were used in normans.
g
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« Reply #10 on: December 10, 2011, 05:59:47 PM »
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the guy i got it from ran the car it was  in doing hill climbs , no probs with fuel at all ive pulled it down  to clean it with no signs of swelling  they still  slide freely

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Gary C
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« Reply #11 on: December 10, 2011, 08:09:43 PM »
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Very nice Dave. Those vanes look in good nick.Are you doing anything with the liner as far as finish is concerned.
I did hear that the liners started life as diesel engine sleeves.
Do you have manifolds? and what carby are you thinking about?
I would also like to know what your thoughts are on compression ratio for the grey and max boost intended.
Thanks for any help.
Gary.
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« Reply #12 on: December 11, 2011, 07:17:43 PM »
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i just honed the liner but it wasnt in bad nic anyway

ive had manifolds made to suit similar style to the origionals
but making a top manifold to suit twin  1 3/4 su's  trying to keep it low and under the bonnet

they bolted them  to stock greys and reds back in the day
ive got a head thats had a bit of porting and bigger valves and will get a cam ground to suit
im thinking 6 to 9 psi will be more than enough

im not building it to race , its only a cruiser

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Gary C
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« Reply #13 on: December 12, 2011, 08:30:32 AM »
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Thanks for the info Dave, Im going to start sorting  out the fitting of the supercharger including manifolds soon as I get my hands on another grey engine including head.

Gary.
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« Reply #14 on: February 10, 2012, 02:15:27 PM »
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Gary Pm sent

Rob
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Gary C
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« Reply #15 on: March 08, 2012, 07:29:26 PM »
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I have had an outlet manifold made up and put some crank pulleys on.





I have bought a carby but until it arrives I have to leave the inlet manifold.
(sorry about phone pic quality) I now need to think about ignition timing and how I set up the dizzy to retard instead of advance?
At the moment my base timing is set to 15 deg advance and Iam pretty sure I will need to maintain that for idle , I will be using water-methanol injection as anti detonant.
Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks, Gary.
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« Reply #16 on: March 09, 2012, 08:23:44 PM »
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I have a MSD [part number MSD 5462] boost timing master you can dial  in from 1 degree  to 3 degrees of retard for each pound of boost from a switch in the cabin  Grin Grin Grin take a look on the MSD web site .....FC427......
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Gary C
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« Reply #17 on: March 10, 2012, 12:15:37 AM »
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Thanks FC427 I printed the instructions and it sounds like just what I need without modifying my dizzy.
Gary.


 
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Gary C
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« Reply #18 on: March 15, 2012, 03:24:05 PM »
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FC 427 did you remove all mechanical advance in your dizzy before using the timing master control or do you use mechanical advance in conjunction with the timing master control? Iam having trouble with that MSD part no it seems to be no longer available.

Thanks, Gary.
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Gary C
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« Reply #19 on: June 06, 2012, 06:43:02 PM »
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couple more weeks (months ) maybe see if this thing works.

Gary
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