overheating?

[mc54]

Frank

The head gasket lined up fine. I guess what I'm going to do first is the timing. I know this is out. I am also going to make sure there is a good seal between the radiator cap and the radiator. Also going to check if the head gasket is leaking using the funnel as was suggested earlier. After that?

Thanks to everyone for the replies.

Regards
Mike

[Ed]

I would shroud your radiator.

Also do a check with no thermostat in place to see if the temp drops.

Use a filter in your top hose to catch any remaining debris in the system.

is your gauge calibration ok?

I did alot of testing on how to cool an engine. it's in another thread.

Cheers


Ed

[Ed]

Some info on overheating which may be useful.

http://fefcholden.org.au/forum/index.php/topic,12243.0.html

[mc54]

Ed

I have read that post a couple of times. I am going to try a few things in the next couple of weeks including removing the thermostat.
Although I am trying to keep this car stock, I want to drive it with some degree of confidence that it won't let me down.
I have installed an overflow bottle (temporary), the system is still a pressurised one, but I might change the cap to use the overflow and see if that helps.
If I cannot lower the temperature, I like the idea of a fan shroud.


Thanks

Mike

[EffCee]

Mike,

Removing the thermostat will create a problem two ways, it will slow the ability of the car to get to operational temperature and if will impede the ablity of the water pump to create enough flow to circulate the water throughout the block.

If you wish to disable the thermostat, do so, as this will only inhibit the ability to get to operational temperature quickly. You will need to remove the centre of the thermostat and still retain the valve mounting plate to ensure that the water pumps ability to circulate water around the engine is retained.

Removing or disabling a thermostat will not cure any cooling problems other than a thermostat issue.

[mc54]

I have an old thermostat I can take the centre out of. I really don't think it is a thermostat problem because the thermostat is new. Not that it can't be a faulty part.
When I start the car cold I can idle it for 20 minutes and it will not go above 180°. The temperature rises when I start driving. Like I said, the timing is out and this is what I think the problem may be. Plus it is the easiest thing to check. If that is not the problem then I will move on from there. Appreciate all the advice.

Regards
Mike

[waynos]

i had a brand new thermostat that was stuck recently,but it ran too hot idling.so i dont think this is the problem
if its runnin too lean it could run hot,have ya changed ya carby, or jets ,idle mixture etc?
retard the timing abit  by ear also as harmonic balancers can slip.
just some suggestions if ya haven't tried em

[waynos]

sorry idle mix wont make a diff,cause it is idling fine.
of course

[FC427]

retard the timing abit  by ear also as harmonic balancers can slip

waynos grey engines timing marks are on the flywheel  .......FC427...........

[waynos]

 i'm a red motor man,still learnin about grey motors,sorry i am STUPID

[Geoff_K]

I have been watching your problem for a while and throw in my recent experience.
I will start by saying what I should have done.
I SHOULD HAVE FITTED DAY ONE, THE IN LINE TOP HOSE FILTER, I DID NOT, AND THIS IS WHAT HAPPENED.

I had a high performance (1960's) straight copper cored radiator that kept my 155c inch grey motor cool, and then kept a 202 red cool in the 1970's.  Never a cooling problem.
Fitted an old 186 in 2006, had the radiator cleaned. Ran about 500kms and it started to over heat. Radiator shop flushed radiator, again ok for 1000km, then same old problem.

The cause: old blocks continue to rust and the aluminium alloy water pump and other casting also continue to rust. The radiator core is finer than these rust particles, so slowly but surely the radiator gets clogged and looses its efficiency. Doesn't take much, and you have big overheating problem.

NOW: with top hose filter, problem solved. BUT you would not believe the volume of crap that builds up every 1000km.

IT APPEARS TO ME THAT IT SHOULD BE ALMOST MANDATORY TO USE ONE OF THESE FILTERS, AND IN FACT YOU ARE MAD IF YOU DONT.
(IF THE ENGINE HAS BEEN STORED, AND IS USED INTERMITTENTLY, THE PROBLEM IS WORSE)
WE BLAME THE POOR OLD RADIATOR, ITS NOT THE PROBLEM, BUT WEARS ALL THE CRAP (SO TO SPEAK)

I learn't the hard way.
Geoff_K

[mc54]

Thanks to all the replies I have a number of things to look at and I am confident one of them will correct the problem.
But you make a good point. Where can I get one of these. Repco?

Mike

[EffCee]

Any of the automotive specialty shops such as Repco, Autobarn, Supercheap etc will have a water filter that you can fit into your top radiator hose,

[CraigA]

http://www.mako.com.au/html/tefba_filter.html

[zulu]

If you have an original grey motor & top hose I don't think the hose has a long enough straight section to fit this into, I purchased one years ago & still have it in the bag it came in
Gary

[mc54]

Thanks Gary, I'll check that out before I buy one.

I have run across perhaps the problem, as I said before, I was going to reset my timing. I'll be damned if the timing mark hasn't moved. When I first started the car many months ago I could not find the timing mark. I found that if I advanced the timing and then revved the engine it came into view. I figured that the distributor was out a tooth. So when I did the head gasket I realigned the distributor to where I thought it should be. I am sure that the mark was at the pointer while idling. Today I went and hooked the timing light up and same thing. No mark unless I advanced and revved. I cannot see how in the hell the mark could have moved so therefore i must have screwed up, somehow.

So correct me if I'm wrong, if the distributor is fully advanced and the engine is revving, the vacuum advance is advancing the timing even more. This would mean that my timing is retarded, probably by quite a bit, and I'll have to move the distrubtor over a tooth (again).

Mike

[FC427]

 Mike Think you worked it out ....sounds like 1 tooth out as you said  put it on TDC and time it again, the performance should be much better also  .......FC427.........

[EffCee]

And with the timing one tooth out, when reset, it should run much cooler.

When re installing the distributor dont forget to turn the oil pump drive so that when the distributor fits back in the oil pumpm drive is in the right palce

[colt]

I had the same problem. I had some engine work done before the Adelaide Nationals. First drive out, (Canberra-Adelaide & back) it started running hot,but luckily didn't overheat. By the time we got home I had to fill the radiator with each fuel stop. Flushed the radiator professionally, put a stocking in the top hose for a while & I haven't had a problem since. Just remember to check the filter regularly.
Engine shops nowadays don't seem to flush the engine of waste after any machining work, this is what my problem was.
Colin,

[FC427]

I send all my engine blocks to REDI STRIP to get non caustic washed before they go to the Machine shop and they come back spotless inside and out ,far better than the Hot tank they use at the Machine Shop .......FC427.........