So where are we up to:
I had rust in 2/3 of the lip around the fuel tank that was beyond saving. I was in the process of doing the research to purchase a bead roller so I could make a replacement. I had thought about it overnight and was going to place an order late last week when I wandered past a damaged door from Son 2's VZ crewman project. I noticed that it had a moulded line down in the middle of the door. It looked close to the lip I needed to create in the rusted sections I had to cut out. I cut it out the section with a grinder and hey presto; almost identical form.
That was the inspiration I needed. So armed with a grinder and some cutting discs I went to work on the rusted sections, leaving the reinforced corners so I had something to weld to. I tacked in the straight bits in then sliced some smaller sections through the back so I could bend them to the corner profiles and tacked them in. Once that was done the back of the curved sections were reinforeced and the missing wedge sections plug welded. Back then to finishing the welds on the new lip and one major job completed. From there I plated some rust sections in the rear floor. I still need to go back and plate them from the other side and weld a couple of rusted flange sections of the cross member in place. All in all happy with the progress.
Prepping the cam to go off and be reground I found one of the cam followers was damaged - so I am on the hunt of a replacement (just one). The one I require is to suit a 10 5/16" pushrod. The intenal depth of the lifter is 1 13/16" (1.852"/47.04mm) as opposed to 1 5/8" on the later version. I have posted on FB chasing a replacement - but if you have a spare handy I'd be happy to part with a few beer tokens.
Prepping the engine to go off for a refresh and I found that the oil pressure relief valve in the oil pump was rusted in place. With some advice from Rob I set out to extract it using a a nut and bolt by cutting a thread into the internal of the valve and then using a nut to extract it. The process itself failed but in cutting the thread the valve came loose and I was able to remove it. I need to purchase a new 9mm tap to replace the damaged one but at least the oil pump was saved from the tip. I ordered an oil pump rebuild kit from Auto Surplus (was cheaper on ePay than it was on their site - unusual).
So the motor is now good to go to the machine shop to be inspected and we will make a plan for the refresh once we know what needs to be done. The concept at the moment is to up the compression a little, what size slug and from where will depend on the assessment of the block, shave the head a little and machine it to accept 202 valves. I was thinking of lightening the flywheel a bit but have scrapped that idea as I plan to run a .355/.336 diff centre and the mass will be helpful there. I have a set of twin strombergs and triple SU's to handle the fueling side of the house, no decision on which solution as yet, and the extractors have already been purchased.
The king pins are in being done so that is the start of the steering refurb.
POR arrived during the week so next on the list is to seal the fuel tank and get back to work on the rust issues and reinforcing the floor pan for seat belts. I'm not going to fit the seat belts until after I get the old girl registered to save on having the engineer the whole setup.
