overheating?

[FB_MAD]

Gotta agree. ::)

Hot tank is good for removing engine paint,dirt ,sludge,grease,oil etc but isn't particulary good at removing deposits in the block cooling passages and machine swarf,filings etc.

Hot tank really is only a passive clean up so the machinist has a clean engine to work on and repaint.Unless it is thoroughly cleaned up with pressure washing after machine work done and prior to assembly then there will be the above mentioned things still floating in cooling passages/oil passages.I've seen the results many times of failed engines years ago when I was on the spanners from so called professional engine reconditioners that should have been more professional and taken better efforts to thouroughly clean up an engine before assembly.

Thats why I say the only way to completely flush out the shit within an older engines cooling passges is to remove all welch plugs and pressure wash the crap out.

[mc54]

Hey All

I have tried numerous times to move the distributor over 1 tooth. It ends up either on one side of the high point of the cam or the other side. Which means to make the car run even half decent I have to turn the distributor fully advanced or retarded. The only thing I can figure out that may be wrong is the indicator is the incorrect spot on the shaft.

Is there a mark on the shaft or under the distributor to line it up or something to tell that it is in the correct position. I am out of ideas as to what else could be wrong.

Regards

Mike

[mc54]

Have looked at the distributor on the bench. My guess is the centre of the marker (TDC on the gauge) should line up to the centre of the notch at the top of the shaft. The one the rotor goes on. If I'm correct, this would explain why I couldn't time the engine no matter what I tried. It also explains why the previous owner garaged this car because of too many problems. There has been a lot of this sort of thing. Wipers wired in backwards and 180° out so that when I got them to park it was on the bonnet.

Mike

[mc54]

I am going to redo everything step by step out of the manual. I think I know what I have missed.

Mike

[Neil FE Van]

Its been a while since i have done a head gasket on a grey but cant you put them on upside down which covers two water jacket holes.

Cheers Neil

[mc54]

I don't think I made a mistake with the head gasket but anything is possible.

I have never been able to line up the timing mark and yesterday was no different. I reread the manual and I think I have it.

1. Line up the timing mark (ball) on the flywheel with the marker on the housing so the piston is TDC on #1 cylinder compression stroke.
2. Insert distributor so it lines up a close as you can get it to the #1 position on the distributor housing making sure that it is in the oil pump.
3. Tighten the bolt that goes through the gauge into the block, making sure it is centered.
4. Loosen the clamp under the distributor that hold the gauge onto the shaft and turn the whole distributor until the points are fully opened on #1 position. Tighten.
5. Start car and it will run perfectly.

Mike

[mc54]

Just a follow up to the overheating.
New radiator didn't fix the problem. Resetting the timing to the correct position didn't fixed the problem. Have removed the thermostat and as was earlier suggested put in one with the centre removed. No longer overheating.
I can't say that the problem is fixed, only bypassed, but that will do just fine for now.


Thanks to everyone for their input.

Mike

[mcl1959]

Mike, If I was you I would still be a little concerned about sludge remaining in the back of the block. Your description of cleaning the block with a garden hose sounds like it may not have done the job adequately.

When I clean a block in the car, I remove the welsh plugs on BOTH sides of the engine and remove the drain cock on the lower passenger side. Using a high pressure washer and a long piece of wire, I make sure that the passages around each cylinder (especially between 5 and 6 & behind 6) are clear and that water flows freely from the drain cock hole.

Water usually contaminates the lifter area so protecting this area from water ingress is vital and an oil change is probably a good idea afterwards.

Ken

[mc54]

Ken

When I took the welch plugs out there was a bit of sludge but not a huge amount. This is a rebuilt engine, although I'm not sure exactly how long ago. In hindsight I probably should have rented a pressure washer but I was on a bit of a time limit as it was not my garage.
I still have the one welch plug to do that is behind the gearbox. When I eventually do this I will have to try to clean the block out some more. Unfortunately I live in a unit which really puts a limit on what I can do here. There is no running water down stairs. They removed the handles from the faucets so no one can wash their cars. I may have to do it at a friends house, if I can arrange this then I will get a pressure washer and hopefully do a decent job. For now though at least I can drive it a bit. Just out of curiosity I may put another thermostat in. The one I removed was new but that does not mean it can't be defective.

Regards
Mike

[mcl1959]

Absolutely - thermostats seem to be one of those items which can be faulty on occasions.  I take your point on the sludge factor - I would think that you are probably OK as is and don't need to reflush - most of my experience has been with engines that have not been cleaned for a long while. Your recoed engine should not have built up huge amounts of gunk.
On another point - I have had experience with 2 rebuilt engines having "hot" problems even though everything was right. It also seems that some engines after boring, run hot no matter what you do :P
My 3 door FE was a case in point - it ran hot all the time but never boiled. The engine was bored to the max to retain original engine number and in the end I wished I didn't use it.

Ken