subframe alignment

[NO NAME]

the crack is in the typical spot you see cracks on standards and commercials when there is no stainless trim around the windscreen.
I did give it a hard time with the jack under the sill under the b pillar and then under the a pillar, i was getting pissed of becuase i couldnt get the bottom leg to budge, tried everything to move it including line lockers with the 2 drivers side legs unbolted to bouncing on the front of the car on jacks trying to jar it, it started with a problem lining up the front gaurd becuse the gap was big at the bottom and the front of the subframe seemed higher on the drivers side at the front.
anyway, it looks like i hadnt got all the lead of the metal before i welded up there if i did, i cant remember wich welds i did but when i wire wheeled the bog of the metal polished up like it was still covered in lead, it also is probably why the bog cracked so easy as i have found bog doesnt like lead and you really need to get all of the lead of for modern bog to work properly.

So i am just going to re weld it with the metal cleaned up.

would it be worth while mking new bottom outer bolts from bolts with a longer blank part and just tap a thread down to were i nead it incase the thread is going to wear or crush? i dont see need for a step down bolt since i have crush tubes.

[FC427]

FCCOOL I would make new bolts for the outer leg in the same style as the original ones just longer to suit your application [Through the 50x50 squar tube you have used ] Usually the support inside the sill is 40x40 so your new bolts should only need to be 10mm longer that way your subframe can still move in the way the factory engineers intended it to ........FC427.......