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How far are the Nat's away again?

Started by 20.4_seconds, October 24, 2005, 06:05:44 AM

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20.4_seconds

Ok, I started on the wagon  ;D ;D  :P
I took the seats out to have a look at how bad it was, I suppose to a novice like me it looks abit ordinary...
I will highlight the areas that I'm most concerned with... ;)
Just the main floor area


R/H side centre


Rear - both sides


Now the front areas is where I'm most concerned, I've no idea so any replies telling me the good and the bad is really appreciated... ::) :P
Left front


Right front



If ya need more pics, just ask

Nick



All I  want for Christmas is a Smiths clock bracket and knurled knobs

FC-V8

Nick
      Looks like you are up for 4 new floor pans, under floor support rails. Could you post some photos from under the wagon. eg where the subframe mounts, cargo area, subframe rail under the radiator.
Glenn
What it to rev ? install a CHEV !
0401-065-201

nicko

mate im afraid you need more than new floor pans thats some serious rust which almost certainly goes down into your sills and subframe,but hey you have plenty of good help available on this forum,you are going to have to get some one here to have a close look at car to work out how you proceed or not.

mcl1959

Nick, try not to look at the whole job at once, this is daunting.
Concentrate on a corner at a time.
Leave the sills in place at first and just cut out the floor in the shape of the new floor pan.  Once cut out you can fully assess the structural members under each floor panel
Repair each structural member as required, then weld in the floor panel.  Don't weld the floor to the sill panel if there is any doubt that the sill panel will need to be replaced.
Then proceed to the next corner ;)

Ken

20.4_seconds

Thanks for the info and support guys,,,a little at a time and she will be fine..... ;D I will do a bit more investigating tomorrow and give it a really good clean out.
On a brighter note, I bought one old holden key at the Jindara swap meet last week for a 50c, popped it in to the ignition and she just slipped into lock...slid a piece of wire in and out popped the cylinder...woo hoo
Funny how such a little thing like that was bugging me when you see what I have ahead of me....lol  ;D
Until the next update
Nick
All I  want for Christmas is a Smiths clock bracket and knurled knobs

Sarge

Nick
     For what it's worth I have seen worse floor pans and have repaired them. Listen to what Ken has said as this is the best way to approach a job the seems doomed from the get go. Heaps of photos of what you have and if you can get heaps of photos of what it will look like finished, these can be used for reference points if you are away from the job for any period of time and need to freashen up the old memory bank. From what I can see in the photos you have supplied the rust repair floor section that you can buy are not going to cover the whole of the area that you will need to replace. It's always good if you can make a template of the piece you need to replace, this can be made of cardboard. Bend it cut and tape it into the shape you need as cardboard is a lot easier to work with than metal and cheaper. When you have made your template with all the cuts and nicks and folds just flatten it out and trace onto your metal. I hope to be coming down to Victoria in January to see my Brother and my Mummy so hopefully I will also have time to catch up with you and I am also hoping to catch up with Rusty the Phantom. But just one step at a time old friend and remember we are always here to help you when you need it. In saying WE I mean the 1000+ forum members as thats what we do help each other out when we can. ;)

Cheers
Sarge
Mark Lees Tallerbudgera Queensland
       0421 165 351
Holden Classics; a BREED above the rest

20.4_seconds

#6
Thanks Sarge, and everyone
I'm not too daunted by it at all...is that stupidity  :o
All part of the process, I mean for a $100 bucks I have to get some pain...Already had a tussle with the old girl...skinned two knuckles and busted my head on the steering wheel...but we are all good now.... ;)
I'm just taking a leaf out of the A-Team and McGyver...
I'm gona make something useful outta nothing... :P

Nick
All I  want for Christmas is a Smiths clock bracket and knurled knobs

20.4_seconds

Bit of cutting here and there - right side  ;)
I pretty much tapped away with a screw driver finding soft spots then moved out about 2 inchs(more in some places  ::)) to hard metal and cut to that point.





These are of the front RH side, all the metal is solid, above and below even though it looks abit rusty - I belted crap out of it to check  ;D


My only concern is that part at the bottom of the A pillar?


The sill seems to be solid also...gave it a good belting


base of B pillar seems to be rusty and the sill is showing signs but will check more tomorrow



and last bit for now, where I'm pointing was floating? There is no weld what so ever..it didnt seem right to me so I thought I would check.


Nick








All I  want for Christmas is a Smiths clock bracket and knurled knobs

mcl1959

Nick A & B pillars dont look too bad.  just cut out rusty piece and make a cardboard template as suggested earlier, then weld it in.
Underfloor members all look to be in good order from the photos.  That rear floor one does float just like you have seen.  This is just the way it is.

Ken

Sarge

Nick
      Yeah what Ken said, all looks real good, that "A" pillar looks lovely compared to the last car I had in. At least you have metal to start with.
       Now that the Wagon is under way why not move this post down to Members Real Cars, with all the other great Resto Jobs that are under way at the moment.

Cheers
Sarge
Mark Lees Tallerbudgera Queensland
       0421 165 351
Holden Classics; a BREED above the rest

Hewart

Hey Nick...
I don't envy you mate, but good on 'ya for tackling the job!!!

Great pics!!

Good luck with it, looking good so far! Keep us posted!

Cheers
Les....

20.4_seconds

#11
Thanks Les....
Having a ball ... ;D
Left side...not as bad on the left rear... ;)



Front left side A pillar and area needs a bit of love though...


Might needsome help with this one  ;) ;)

And new R/H  floor pans ready to go in when it's all nice and clean


Nick

p.s I'll let the powers that be decide where this post should sit...I think it may get quite large  ;D ;D
All I  want for Christmas is a Smiths clock bracket and knurled knobs

TorqueFC

wow nick  :o :o :o :o

youve got some work ahead of you  :-X
tests have proven that the final words before a fatal urban car crash are "OH ****"

in a rural car crash they are " Hold my stubby and watch this for skill!"

Sarge

Nick
     Are you going to repaint the wagon the same colour? I only ask this so as I can picture the woodgrain dash with the white background. ;D
      Dont get to ahead of yourself with the cutting, When your welding the floor section back into place remember to only tack them lightly along the inner sill. This way as Ken said if the sill does need to come out you dont have to recut it. Also it will put back a bit of support as you weld the rest of the section into place. If you are going to mig weld the section back into place try to avoid long runs of welding and just stich weld move from side to side, this will keep metal warping down, as it give the metal time to cool down while you are welding the other side. If I am telling you how to suck eggs just say so, (as I am pretty thick skinned) for I dont know if you can weld or if you have done this type of job before. ;D I do know you are Irish that why I have typed this reply very slowly. ;) ;D

Cheers
Sarge
Mark Lees Tallerbudgera Queensland
       0421 165 351
Holden Classics; a BREED above the rest

20.4_seconds

I have to weld it  ??? :o :o :o shit....
There goes the liquid nails idea..... :P

nah thanks for that Sarge...I'm just going along slowly slowly...have done a little welding..but only arc...so this is all new to me...being very careful with what cuts I've made so far...I will measure it all up and cut exact (ta Jamie!) when it's all ready to be glued..oooops welded  ;D
Some great websites out there with resto projects showing repairs to A pillars and the like....pictures help heaps cos I read tooooo slowly  ;D ;D
As for the colour...she is staying stock. well as much as we can keep her anyway....

Nick
All I  want for Christmas is a Smiths clock bracket and knurled knobs

mcl1959

Nick I agree with Sarge, you need to get some welding done rather than keep cutting, hence my original suggestion of doing one corner at a time.  You have now weekened the body structure and it WILL move and sag.

Also do a lot of practice first before starting with the mig welder.  This is a pretty straight forward floor replacement for those of us experienced in doing it, but not so easy for a first time user of a mig welder.  

Ken

20.4_seconds

#16
Oooops I misunderstood the part  about cutting and welding, I thought you meant just weld a little at a time to avoid distortion.. ::) I've put the grinder away...

Will it matter if it is left like that for a week or two while I get the welding side of things organsied or should I get onto it right away?

Thanks for all your help so far Ken and everyone

Nick
All I  want for Christmas is a Smiths clock bracket and knurled knobs

SRVLIVES

It was suggested to me that when replacing floors and/or sills to jack the car up and place 2x4's between the stands and the car running the length of the car to stop sagging.

fccool59

man, after working on my floor every weekend since easter I reckon you should just por 15 all the rust as it was and cross your fingers when driving over the bumps.
Its painful to see some one back at the beginning of doing a rusty floor

how is your rear, is there much rust at the very back of the car?
rain sucks  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1Ujma1lBac    rain sucks     rain sucks

20.4_seconds

I will update with some photos of the rear in the morning, going to need a petrol tank  :-[ unless they can be repaired?
Rust is'nt too bad in the general rear of the wagon but the petrol tank  and surrounding area is stuffed,

The point of my post is this question,
Anyone got any tips about removing chrome mouldings from the doors/front guards......ahh wait...without breaking the tabs or is it just one of those things ..if it breaks it breaks...

So what do I spray on them to loosen them - WD40. or..Acid? lol
Muchos Gracias  ;D

Nick
All I  want for Christmas is a Smiths clock bracket and knurled knobs