Jolls FC Ute Project

[Jolls]

Great progress Craig. ARP twelve point nuts may work for you, on original style studs. That’s what I had to use on my red with Warnerford Design swept manifold.

For the fuel I plumbed up standard diameter 5/16” hard lines straight from the pump, with SAE flares and brass unions. No regulator, rail or return feed, and no issue with flooding or leaks. I had to use small lengths of 1/4” hose to go from the 5/16” tube to the bowls.


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Thanks for the heads up. I will see what I come up with once it is in the car - If I can get the fuel rail to work I will. Not sure I wil bother plumbing it back to the tank though. If it doesn't I will follow your lead.

[Jolls]

With the new (to me) Bosch analyser in the shed I thought I wiuld have a crack at putting the components together and running a test on the original donk. That donk is still sitting in the test bed so pretty simple to set up.

On with all of the extras - water pump, generator, wired in a start switch, connected up the fuel pump and replaced the funnel to feed fuel with a 5l plastic jerry can.

Removed the plugs, turned her over, fuel pumped from the jerry to the carby. Check 1 good.

Checked timing by eye - all seems OK. Check 2 good.

Filled the radiator, heard what sounded like a bit of a trickle inside the engine. More on this later. I suspected it was just water running through all of the galleries, so I left the radiator air bleeder tank on and full of water to cater for it drinking a bit on start up. Also to let any trapped air out of the system.

Here she is ready to test.



Turned the key and she started but stopped after about 5 seconds. A small adjustment and it was running on the third attempt; reasonably smooth idle at about 740 rpm (according to the machine). She stumbled a little on acceleration so I suspect that the weights a good clean as after a few runs she loosened up and ran fine. This is not the dizzy for the rebuilt donk so I am not overly concerned. Ran the old girl for 10 minutes - no oil leaks, no water leaks and appeared to be purring nicely.

[Jolls]

Then I heard a sizzling sound from the carby side of the motor so I look over and see emulsified oil sizzling on the exhaust manifold.





It all starts to make sense now - the donk still has the reconditioners tag on her when I got it, but compression was low. The trickling noise was probably water dribbling into the sump - pretty sure this old girl has a faulty/blown head gasket. Perhaps bringing her back won't be that hard after all - perhaps I should have just started with her instead of redoing the EK donk I picked up.

[Jolls]

A  short video of the events

[youtube=425,350]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dgVxH0PDJsg[/youtube]

[Jolls]

Well that didn't work at all. Here is the link:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dgVxH0PDJsg

[Jolls]

After yesterday's dissapointement I headed back out into the shed to get to the bottom of the problem.

Ripped off all of the bits and pieces that were in the way and found this.






Seems to be too much milk for a blown head gasket. Based off this and the trickling sound I heard yesterday I started to suspect a cracked head/block or damaged welch plug.

[Jolls]

When I removed the head it wss clear that the copper gasket was still in good shape. The water jackets could definitely do with a clean though.



It was also pretty clear that this engine had not been to a reconditioner - I can only assume someone placed the reconditioner's tag on there as some sort of joke. Not the sort of thing the widow would have done when I picked the old girl up from the farm. I could not find any evidence of where the leak had originated from; however, it was pretty clear from the dispersion of the milky oil that the contamination was being pumped up from the sump. With nothing jumping out at me I filled the radiator with water hoping to locate where the leak was coming from. It didn't take long until the culprit was identified. If you look closely at the next image you will see water pouring out of the welch plug immediately above the fuel pump.

[Jolls]

The amount of contamination was pretty bad.



On the upside the bores are in good shape and from it running yesterday I expect the bottom end will be so as well. I will do some detailed measurements when I get to pull her down over the next week or so. I trust I will be able to give her a clean, a hone and have her back on the test bed as a ready to go spare. We will see where that ends up.

While I was up in the shed I finished the generator/regulator testing machine. It was a failure - the voltmeter (AliExpress) is so far out it isn't funny. I checked a fuly charged battery with my Fluke Multimeter at 12.75V. I connected up the "new" test unit and it read 4V. I don't have a means at the moment to test the ammeter side of it; but that is coming. This morning I closed a deal on an old Durst Ganerator/Alternator test bench. It is missing the Voltmeter but Durst have tole me that they may be able to provide an original from one of their scrapped machines but at worst case a new meter with the matching multiplier resistors. Analogue guages with multiple scales read millivolts across different sized resistors that provide the same full scale deflection based on the maximum voltages - which in this case is 10 - 20  - 50V.  Until I get the voltmeter working I will simply tap into the wiring with a digital voltmeter to provide the info re

The parts for the distributor tester are slowly coming in so I trust that I will have a full test setup by early next month. Once I have the test benches set up they will be availble for use if you are in the area.

Next step is to build a growler to check starter motor and generator armature faults. I am a way off setting up to rewind armatures but I trust I will get there in the longer term.

I can't affor to lose track though - I have to finish the ute first!

[Errol62]

Good news on the leak then 😃
Easy fixed 👍


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[Jolls]

I picked up an alternator/generator test bench for the shed today.



There are a couple of problems with it, which is probably why I picked it up for a song:

• the load switch is permanently closed - not a problem as I can wire something in if I can't find a replacement from Durst themselves
• The voltmeter is missing but I can easily wire in an auto ranging digital substitute until I can source a replacement from Durst (or elsewhere).
• The ammeter appear to be wired in parallel with two sides of the positive feed from the batteries. This is very odd as the ammeter should be in series to function. I need to look into this a little further as it just doesn't seem to be correct. Durst opens on Monday so I trust I will be able to talk them into providing me with a wiring diagram
• The tacho is wired to the motor but is not reading. Hopefully is is simply a connection issue, so I need to track that down

Even with the faults the ability to throw an alternator/generator onto the bench with a speed controlled and reversible motor is gold. The value of motor and bench setup, even without the instruments, is well above what I shelled out for it so a good win.

[Jolls]

If you have been following the chromework quotes have come back in and they far exceed the budget I had allocated (prices are below excluding the G).

The quote to do everything was just $10,250 and included the guard spears all of the interior chrome etc. I have had it broken down to the major components that I think need to be done:

Front Bar - $1650
Bumperettes - $400 ea
1/4 window surrounds - $320 ea
Grille - $3500 (but discounted to $2500)
Headlight Surrounds - $280 ea
Taillight Surrounds - $120 ea
Indicator Surrounds - $250 ea

Total $6890 still $3.5K over what I thought it would cost. I guess I had unrealistic expectations. So I have been thinking about options and think that I have a plan that may just work.

If I get the front and rear bars, 1/4 windows, guard spears and tailgate badge rechromed I reckon I am at my $4K budget and the standout shiny bits are done and dusted. I already have a set of powdercoated off white deep dish rims with FC caps that are in good condition. The chromework on the grille, front indicator housings and the bonnet bird are pretty shoddy. The headlight surrounds are painted and I have a set of painted and daily driver chrome tailights as options.

My plan is to deviate slightly from doing a full resto and create a factory sleeper with a view to potentially scraping up good condition brightwork down the track (or not if I really like the painted finish).

I have come up with two and a half options that I am considering. The car will be India Ivory as it came out.

Option 1. Front and rear bars, 1/4 windows, guard spears and tailgate badge new triple plated chrome. Grille, headlight and tail light surrounds in satin aluminium. Bird - ditched.
Option 2. Front and rear bars and 1/4 windows new triple plated chrome. Grille, headlight, tail light surrounds, guard spears and tailgate badge in satin aluminium.

The half option is either of the above with a hybrid grille: surrounds, vertical bars and indicator housings in satin aluminium and the horizontal bars in satin black to blend in with the engine bay/radiator.

I guess option 3 could be to paint the headlight and tailight surrounds in India Ivory and source a daily driver grille and indicator housings so she looks stock as a rock (less the wheel - I do have a set and a half of stock rims at my disposal if I go that route.)

I know opinions are like bum holes; but I would appreciate thoughts from the masses on how the options might look in real life as opposed to in my imagination.

Cheers n Beers
Jolls

[Errol62]

I know it is getting harder and harder to find original chrome in usable condition. Still, I scour the swap meets and other sources and use the best I can find. I think the painted option looks good on a ute too, as long as it isn’t blinged up with special side trim.


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[Jolls]

I know it is getting harder and harder to find original chrome in usable condition. Still, I scour the swap meets and other sources and use the best I can find. I think the painted option looks good on a ute too, as long as it isn’t blinged up with special side trim.

I'm with you, I have already started scouring - It has been so long since I had chrome work done I had an unrealistic expectation on the price now. I'm sure stuff will become available. I looked into the Caswell setup to DIY and it was around $3K before adding in the wiring, building a dedicated bench and building the $25K shed to house it in.

I'm with you on the side trim - and I think that satin aluminium on the grille and headlight suppronds is the way to go until I find decent replacements. I might experiment with the hybrid grille and see what it looks like. I can always paint over the black with satin aluminium if I don't like it.

[Errol62]

I kind of like the look of the early utes with body coloured most everything. Might be an FE thing?


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[Jolls]

Pretty sure FC was the same. Mine is a late model (59) and came with painted headlight and tail light surrounds. I have only seen one FE with a painted grille and can't say if that was from the factory or if it was to cover up poor chrome. I think the chrome bars and grille make a 50s car.

[my8thholden]

Craig ..Just red your price quote after post my experience with All Metal Bumpers ..PHEW !!! price increases are huge my job was half that  .. I also had a quote from a  plumbing co. recently , for work on the house ..he said it would be two days , two junior plumbers ( learning on the job ) and one supervisor ..Quote $15,000 ...no copper just plastic ..crazy ,,,Vern .

[Jolls]

Up until 1 Jan I was a builder/electrician so I know how much plumbers can charge. There are some unscrupulous mobs out there though. I had a plumber that I used for my entire time building and we had a good system and was charged reasonable rates. I got stuck one time and needed a pipe extended that had been broken off in a wall by one of my regular customers. I called what I thought was a local guy and he turned up but when he went to extend the pipe and found he was out of silver solder. I had one of my boys drop some off to him and he extended the pipe - took about 15 minutes in total.

He then charged me his $600 fixed rate for installing copper up to 6m in lenght plus a $165 call out fee. We had a bit of barney over the cost - should have been his call out fee and a few $ extra. Long story short I backcharged him $500 for silver solder and $100 travel for delivering it and paid his clal out fee. Never heard a peep out of him. Ring around there are still some decent guys out there.

[Jolls]

I lucked in yesterday and picked up a bunch of FE/FC parts from a "Toyota" guy who found a box under his house when he moved in.

The box contained:

FC Speaker Grille and radio cover plate - Grille good nick - cover plate one minor blemish but useable.

• Rare spares front and rear mudflaps. The original invoice was with the front mudflaps - $292.50 on 25 May 1994. they are not the same as the NASCO mudflaps - no metal bracket just screws through the rubber up into the bottom of the guard.
• Upper grille surrounds - minor pitting - will replace the below average ones I have at present so I now have a 75/80% grille solution. I have one lower grille surround (horizontal) that is striaght but peeling chrome and have one with great chrome but accident damaged so will keep chasing a replacement for that or bite the bullet and pay for rechroming.
• FC horn ring with button - both good nick and useable. Will probably use this horn button in place of the one I repainted as I like the "aged" look a little better.
• FE horn ring with button - ring pitted and button flaking. I will try another method to remove the paint in the horn ring and redo it like I did the FC one. I will probably mount the ring and button on the wall in the bar.
• A floor shift - not sure it is grey motor though - need to have a bit of a play with it - I won't be using it either way.
• Boot lock, and boot badge for an FC sedan. The badge was broken but the resin component was good but faded. Will repaint it and pass it on - the lock works but no key for the barrel.
• Accelerator pedal and the horizontal accelerator linkage.
• Sunvisor bracket with original fittings - good condition and will polish up well. I have one on the visor I have already so it is a spare. I am in two minds about using the visor - never had a car with one so not sure of the benefit.
• Vacuum wiper motor
• Lion badges for the sedan rear quarters without the special badge
• A marked but useable over-rider for the front bar
• A thermostat in original packaging and
• A bunch of nuts bolts etc that I have yet ot go through

Not a bad find out of the blue. A couple of parts in there that may help others out down the track. The mudflaps, grille parts and horn badges I'll be using for the ute/bar but the rest is up for grabs to cover costs of anyone in interested.

[ardiesse]

Craig,

Boot lock (barrel, not the mechanism?).  Doesn't matter that there's no key.  I'd end up re-tumblering it to suit "Found Object".  Add it to the Delco distributor after you've done the distributor up.

Rob

[Jolls]

Craig,

Boot lock (barrel, not the mechanism?).  Doesn't matter that there's no key.  I'd end up re-tumblering it to suit "Found Object".  Add it to the Delco distributor after you've done the distributor up.

Rob

No problems.