Jolls FC Ute Project

[fcee]

  porting  the head sounds drastic if you ever want to change manifolds in the future .

[Jolls]

  porting  the head sounds drastic if you ever want to change manifolds in the future .

Perhaps I explained it incorrectly. Porting the manifold to match the head. Porting the head to match the manifold would definitely be a drastic step. ;D

[Jolls]

I have been researching the SU Carbs to try and find out more about them and how to set them up and how/where I would have to drill to set up a ported vacuum port if it didn't run well without one.

All of my carbs are the same: AUC 6020 cast into the body. The AUC 6020 is a H2 cbody (1 1/2") throat that was in proeduction from 56-62 (so period correct for when I look at historic rego). One body as a 2 in a circle afterwards in the casting indicating that it was a lete production body; cast between 59-62.

There is addtional hand scribed numbering on an oval plate following the casting. I hadn't taken much notice of it before - thinkig it was a numerical sequence to register the body or something. I stumbled across an MGA article and found that this numbering was dependent on what model car the carb was used on, and from what I gather was etched by hand when they were installed. MGA used 6031 for the front and 6033 for the rear carburettor and Triumph used 6031 for the front and 6032 for the rear. Mine are numbered 6031, 6033 and 603S, although the latter one could be 6035 or 8 that has been poorly written or worn. I can't find any detail on that nomenclature - perhaps it was designed specifically for a triple application and is marked as S for supplemental.

The postion of the carb, and the numbering etched on the carburettor, details what machining was done. So although the bodies were produced identically thay were machined differently depending on the the vehicle theyu were supplied for and what application they had in the setup. 6031 was drilled and tapped for the choke arm and 6032/6033 were drilled for a vacuum advance fitting. I expect that there was an option for a carburettor to be drilled for the choke and ported vacuum if it was a single carburettor model. The MGAs were all tein carburettor models so ne detail was available.

That had me running up to the shed to check. The front carb is fitted for the choke and the casting port for the vacuum advance has a brass plug and is has no holde drilled into the body. The centre caburettor has no maching for the choke and the vacuum advance casting is filled with aluminium that has been peened over. On closer inspection internally I located a small hole behind the butterfly. It was well camoflauged in among the the carbon staining - but definitely there. The rear carb has no casting for the choke and was fitted with a threaded brass plug. Removing the plug revealed a tiny hole that is drilled throgh the casting just behind the butterfly. So it looks like there was never a ported vacuum issue - it was always there staring me in the face - just blocked off.

This makes my decision to block off the threaded port into the manifold balance tube simple and resolves my problem on how to resolve the distributor vacuum advance problem.

So does anyone have any idea on what the 603S marking is related to on the thrid carburettor?

While I was up in the shed I compared the FX/FJ gearboxes to the one that came with the FC. The differences in the castings are quite clear. I will have a good look at their internals - if you know anyone that needs origianl FX/FJ boxes let me know. Happy to trade for an FC version as a spare.

[ardiesse]

"If you know anyone that needs original FX/FJ boxes let me know."

(raises hand)

Not that I've blown up a gearbox in the last 30 years (say), but a source of supply is always useful.  Particularly if any of the Humpy people want an original gearbox.

Rob

[Jolls]

"If you know anyone that needs original FX/FJ boxes let me know."

(raises hand)

Not that I've blown up a gearbox in the last 30 years (say), but a source of supply is always useful.  Particularly if any of the Humpy people want an original gearbox.

Rob

Messaged you with and offer I'm sure will work for you!

[Jolls]

A little more progress this afternoon.

Picked up the JB weld, applied it to the manifold and bolted it up over the locating rings. I trust that by the time I get to it tomorrow afternoon the locator rings and the manifold are one and we cen move onto the next task.

On the down side I haven't come up with a supplier for the SU threaded vacuum nipple. Early days yet so I'm sure one will trun up. However, if someone has any recommended suppliers it may help in the search. I have a mate who resotres carburettors for as a side hustle that will probably have some leads that I can chase down.

Got a call this afternnon from Canberra Brake and Clutch. Drove into town and picked up the goodies. I now have seven machined and usable brake drums. Two Standard (20 thou over) for the front, two 60 thou over for the rears and three 90- thou over as spares. They have matching shoes (standard and plus 60). The wheel cylinders, clutch slave cylinder and the brake and clutch masters have all been sleeved with stainless and new wire wound brake lines have been provided along with a standard hose for the clutch.

So the bets that make her go are coming together, the steering column has been addressed, the king pins and suspaension are done and the bits that make her stop are now done. Now it is a matter of cleaning up the steering linkage, putting the front end back together and finishing the rust repairs so she can start to go back together. Then it is only body prep, paint and the interior to do.

If you write it quicklyit doesn't sound like much - but still steering in the right direction so that is a plus!

[Errol62]

I got one got a Holley via speedflow retailer


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Jolls]

I got one got a Holley via speedflow retailer

Thanks Clay,

I have been through their catalogue but don't think they have a solution that will work for me. I found a thread in an MGA forum that included a 1959 of the SU. They indicated that the thread for the vacuum advance nipple/plug for the 6020 SU is 7 x 1.0 metric (M7 1.0). An odd thread today, so I thought that they had it wrong. From my inital look I thought it was 1/4" BSPP/BSPT given the origin of the carburettor. I had not checed by measurement so I went up and chacked; sure as eggs we are dealing with an M7 1.0 thread.

The FC Master Parts Cattledog lists the spark control as being 3/16" flared tube so I expect that the flared nut would be 3/8" 24 TPI.  3/8" 24 TPI inverted flare nuts are pretty easy to come by so making up a har vacuum line shouldn't be too difficult.

M7 1.0 is an odd thread size that I haven't been able to find an adaptor to 3/8 24TPI to maintain the original look and feel  I could probably Frankenstein an M7 1.0 to 3/8" 24 TPI adaptor out of some 1/2" brass hex or alternatively use 3/8"/10 mm hex make a brass barb and run a short length of vacuum hose. Either way it looks like a bit of lathe time will be required to solve this one.

Why are the small things such a challenge?

[Errol62]

I used a short length of I think 3/16” ID vacuum hose to join  bundy tube to friction fit nipple on one of my HS6 SUs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Jolls]

I used a short length of I think 3/16” ID vacuum hose to join  bundy tube to friction fit nipple on one of my HS6 SUs.

I found what is supposed to be the correct part from SU in the UK; however, it doesn't state the thread sizes. The thread on the MGA site quoted someone purchasing this part from the UK only to find it was 5/16 BSF (22 TPI) to 5/16" BSB (26 TPI). I have asked the question of SU in realtion to the part so will see what comes back.

I do have some drawings of this part (dated 1968) along with another of the plug in M7 1.0 from 1959 so there was possibly a machining change at some point. It will be pretty simple to turn something up in the lathe to create a solution using some brass stock and a solder on flare to create a custom hardline or to use some vacuum tube between the two as you have done.

Once I hear back from SU I'll come up with a cunning plan.

[Jolls]

Rained off site this afternoon so gor hoem early. Jumped into the shed and used some JB weld to blend the locator rings to the inlets. The photos below show the extent of the misalignment at either end of the manifold.





With luck I will take to them with a compond burr tomorrow afternoon and there will be a smooth passage for the fuel air mixture from SU to cylinder and I can tick one more job off the list of things to do.

[Harv]

G’day Craig - sent you a PM and email about the mudflaps last week, but not sure if they got through.

Cheers,
Harv

[Jolls]

Hi Harv,

Sorry been away doing some remote work. Back on deck and sent a reply via messenge function on here.

Cheers

[Jolls]

Been a while - working remotely, Christmas and a new Granddaughter all taking time away from the build.

Mrs J back at work and me now "retired" from the building game it is time to get back into it in - not that I have been completely idle (or others haven't).

So while I have been preoccupied with life I managed to get the the brakes and clutch compnenets in to be sleeved in stainless, the drums machined (I have 7 useable drums out of the 9 I took over to be looked at. A couple are on their last oversize but I now have a good set of drums. The king pins are done and the front end it ready to go back together. Diff entre has been changed to 3.55 and the bearing pressed on ready to assemble.

Over the last two days I have finished "porting" the SU mainfold to mate to the head through a combination of filling the low sides with JB weld and taking material from the high areas.


Throat pior to hand sanding


Mainfold ready for test fit

[Jolls]

The manifold and carbs were fitted for measurement.

[Jolls]

Finally measurements taken to confirm clearance.





It will be tight but I think we have cracked this one. Now to get to work on the headers to get them to fit correctly.

While I was there I thought I would complete the prep for the distributor test bed I plan to build. Pulled the distributor parts bin out so I can start putting it back together. Found everything bar the body - it will be there somewhere but after an hour of searching I ditched it to finish watching the cricket. I did find my third string seized dizzy so I will try to put something together about refurburbishing it while I go through the build of the test bed.

I have to do a trip down to Albury to pick up the two Bosch Enginer Analysers I have found and will start of the front end rebuid and complete the rust repairs to the floor - so pleant to do and now finally some time to do it.

Cheers n Beers

[Jolls]

Did the run down to Albury today and picked up the Analysers.



This is the one I am keeping for the shed. It will do the on vehicle analysis plus hook up to the distributor test bed that I am building as well. It is three separate components: an engine analyser, an oscilloscope for all of the electrical testing and an exhaust gas analyser. So pretty high end stuff in the day; but most can be done with hand held devices now. Itxgives the shed a good feel though. The second one has a smaller engine analyser, the same oscilloscope and a printer. So I may add the printer to the one I am keeping and make a desision on keeping the others as spares or moving them on. I asked son 2, the mechanic, if he wanted the second set and he laughed at me and said if he needs to work on some ancient shit with a carbie he will bring it home to me. Smart Arse!

I also picked up some new shoes for the old girl. 6" ROH powder coated in rims off white (similar the the ute colour) shod with Michelin 175/70s. Should pair nicely with the 3.55 centre, keep the standard look and keep up with traffic

[Jolls]

I also fitter the headers/extractos today. The issue was the misalignment of the mounting holes with the bolt holes. This was caused by poor workmanship in the finish of the pipes. Instead of doing the job properly they simply cut V notches for most of the mounting bolts. I took to them with a burr and a rats tail file and it all goes together well, except for the bolts one in from each end. The bolt heads don't clear the exterior of the pipes so I will need to use allen head bolts there - will probably replace the lot for uniformity.


Headers and SU's temp mounted.

I also need to file back the locating rings. I made them too long so that I had some play so will grind them down when time permits.

The next problem to solve is where and how to mount the fuel rail. I am not sure what it was mounted to originally. I was told it was an FC when it came to me with the individual manifold mounts and that the firewall didn't have to be modified - and we know that was BS. The fuel rail also has a return line that I expect ran back to the tank. As you can see in the photos the lines seem to naturally want to hang in front of the carbies so I expect it was mounted along the inner guard somehow. I will need to get it all back together ebfore resolving this one - so time to move onto something else in the interim.

[blacky]

 Good progress mate, those inlet/exhaust manifold bolt setups can be fiddly.......

[Errol62]

Great progress Craig. ARP twelve point nuts may work for you, on original style studs. That’s what I had to use on my red with Warnerford Design swept manifold.

For the fuel I plumbed up standard diameter 5/16” hard lines straight from the pump, with SAE flares and brass unions. No regulator, rail or return feed, and no issue with flooding or leaks. I had to use small lengths of 1/4” hose to go from the 5/16” tube to the bowls.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk