FC Sedan 2008 Barn Find - FNQ

[NES304]

Good to see NES has some influence over others :D :D :D

In ya face Hoon!!!

Better pull my finger out and start typing. Gotta massive update coming.

[FCRB26]

Keep being a bitch and ill spoil your "big update" with the pics on my mobile phone  ;D

[NES304]

Keep being a bitch and ill spoil your "big update" with the pics on my mobile phone  ;D

DOH! :'(

[JB]

HA HA....  ;D

[FCV08]

NES what have you been doing :-[ :-[ :-[

[NES304]

Uploading photos. Will update at midnight after work...........

[fe-ambo]

The other piece of good news I found out of the weekend, the red 186 i've had sitting at a mates house in his shed for nigh on 8 years now is actually a 186S from the HK/T/G series.  Not a made score for $50 I paid for it at the time.

By the time you end up collecting it the storage fees would have eaten up any possible profit.  :P

[NES304]

The engine, a 304 V8, instead of the V6 is solely the fault of NES232 for his decision to upgrade.  It got cogs turning in my head, and its the same amount of engineering to get it complianced to the decision to purchase was made, one was sourced and Wolah.  Its now in my shed. 

I'm pretty sure the "VU" stamp on the block indicated it was either HSV or an upgraded 195kw engine. Mine is only VM = 180kw but as we have to use extractors the power goes up. I have "chipped" mine for now so it should be over 200 killer wasps anyway. car is nearly 400kg lighter than a VT too. Power to weight, mmm
Only Holden 5L V8 with roller lifters (VT V8's and series III VS I think, not all efi V8). 355 crank slides in too no grinding!!

[hrpremier]

Hi Guys. Thinking of having a crack at shortening my diff over the christmas break.  Since the V6 plans are way behind me and now the 304 is the way of the future, I was wondering if v8 Axles (correct me if im worng " 28 spline) will fit inside my V6 (24 spine)diff housing.  Figured if I purchased two short V8 diff splines, with diff centres to suit and cut the long side of the axle to suit would it still work.  By shortening only one side wont the diff be off centre.  Is this a concern.  I thought shortening both sides would be the way to go, rather than just one side and having the diff offset?

Cheers

[Ed]

Jason,

check the bearings are the same size in the housing, and if so, chances are it may work.

on the BW diffs, the pinions are off centre, so the long/short axles lines up the pinion in the centre of the car.

if you shorten the long side, the view from the rear will look OK, however the pinion will be off centre.

From what I've seen and according to the theory, so long as the pinion is parallel to the transmission in the vertical plane and horizontal plane, the uni's should operate OK.

I'm planning to the do the short axle method of shortening in my project too.

here's some discussion over on teh FB/EK forum with some good analysis.
http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=13199

and some more discussion here.
http://www.moparmarketforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=21265&hilit=diff+conversion&sid=ab7ad0c57e59da83b5b5c0b6e2bfdd01&start=20

Cheers

Ed

[hrpremier]

Hi Forum.  Yes Im still here. I have really dropped the ball of late. Cold weather, little money and not knowing what I am doing really slows down the process.

Day off today with the dreaded man flu so what better time than to pull the blankets of the old girl and look at it again while the kids are at daycare, school and the bride is at work.

Manufacutred a rust repair section for the bottom of the A pillar this morning

and then focused my attention to the inside where the A pillar and the inside sill meet.


This is what I am faced with.  I started to make a piece to put into here but at closer inspection looks like it could be difficult to get out as it seems welded to the A pillar from the inside.



My question is when others have repaired this section of the car did they re manufacture such an item or did they simply cut it out and rust kill what was left.  Not sure if it actually does a great deal.  From what I have studied on other peoples projects looks like most have not worried about it. A lot seem to manufacture a inner front piece and weld that in only.  Im not sure what function it serves and unsure if I need to go to the trouble of welding a new one back in.

Thanks

[fe350chev]

Hey Mate. Getting this sorted will make everything else seem like straight forward. Pls read this thread below. Also, have you braced the door gaps, inserted a rod or cross support to this area to maintain geometry? Hard to tell by the pics that's all. Yes you have to manufacture this piece.

http://fefcholden.org.au/forum/index.php/topic,9272.0.html

[fe350chev]

I hope these pics help with your plan of attack. They do serve a purpose because this form a major structural integrity junction for the front frame as per the previous comments by Ken  ;)

[fe350chev]

The rear ones were also fixed on mine, so they are also posted, as well as finished front piece but I am trying to show you more progress pics of the front. Bear with me  :P

[fe350chev]

These are good before and after pics for you.

[fe350chev]

Just looked at my before pics, wasn't real good mine  :o :D

[2brite]

 :o
Thats a whole lot of holes there

What a great challenge

[fe350chev]

Not wrong.

[hrpremier]

Ive had a couple of goes at re manufacturing these lower inner panels that are behind the rear quater at the rear of the wheel arch.  After much frustration can someone who has tackled this job point me in the direction of someone who sells replacement  repair panels.  I require both left and right as they have cancer and are to thin to repair.







TIA

[TTV6FC]

Great to see you are still persisting.Keep up the good work.Jamie.