Good evening everyone,

Can anyone help me understand how I remove the physical lock from the tailgate handle on my wagon? I have taken it to a locksmith and they advised they couldn't get the lock out to re-key it.   I have taken the small pin out from 3/4 way down the handle (the squarish and bigger "pin" is still in).  The lock does move slightly side to side in the T piece housing (for a fortnight I have been using WD40 and light tapping on a wooden block although I am pretty sure it was moving before anyway) but the lock itself wont come out.  I know that for the ignition I have to turn it past lock and use a pin to pop the lock however the tailgate doesn't work like that and I cant lock or unlock it without a key anyway - I am not even sure if it is locked or not at the moment although I have been able to open the tailgate (I know how stupid that sounds but maybe it is just broken .

Any suggestions/experience anyone can share with me on how I might be able to fix this?

Cheers
Mike

did you sell it?

I didnt go for the V8 in my car but I did go to a public weihbridge and got an official weight that was used by my engineer to work out the actual weight, which was then used in the calculation as to maximum capacity I could fir.  I had half a tank of fuel in mine, so that added a few kg's I guess.

Not sure if this works for you in NSW.

Weddo,

You were on the money. I had a call yesterday from WA DPI and was advised (the confirmation letter is in the mail) that seatbelts and washers do NOT need to be fitted to my wagon, even though it has undergone some extensive modifications (such as v6, brakes etc etc). 

This is what I was expecting given, as you pointed out, the "National Code of Practice for Light Vehicle Construction and Modification" (viewable at http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/vsb_ncop.aspx) that covers what you can and cant do in relation to all types of vehicles.

Cheers
Mike

Not sure exactly what to make it but I know that with mine I asked for it to have the same track as the FC and it is a little too narrow, I am guessing I should have made it at least 20mm wider.  I am sure 100's have done it before so check and meaure it to make sure its right (my 10mm - approx - offset on my rims to counter this causes some issues so I dont use them).

I have used Rod for my car and I would recommend him with no hestiation at all. He did an absolute fantastic job for me and I am based on the other coast.

Thanx Weddo,

Looking it up right now.

cheers
Mike

Guys,

I am a WA club member trying to get my car engineering completed but the engineer has just come back and told me in order to pass my car, I need to fit seatbelts in the rear (its a wagon) as well as fit window washers (I already have a dual speed wiper motor).

Is this true? I spoke with licensing a while back and they told me that I didnt need to fit seatbelts at all (but I put them in the front anyway) so to be told I now need them in the back is more than just more work, I dont even know where I can fit them up unless I run 3 lap belts across it.

While I know I have made some modifications (v6, rack and pinion, disk brakes all round, CRS subframe etc) does anyone know the diffinitive requirements in WA at this point?

I look forward to any advice.

Cheers
MikeM

Not sure if you have this sorted but there is a mob in Myaree (cant recall the name) that I used for a couple of custom cables in my car.  Happy to dig out the detail if still needed.

Cheers
MikeM

Good evening,

The drivers door lock works fine expect the torsion spring that keeps the lock snib (? not sure what the button that you lift and push to lock and unlock is called) has broken. (it is about the size of a 5c peice with 180 degree offset,  opposed lugs at the ends).  The snib doesnt stay up so it locks itself everytime I shut the door, which is really annoying when I dont have a key that fits the door yet 

I am after the spring but I am guessing this isnt really an option, so anyone got a drivers door locking mech for sale?

Cheers
Mike

Stubbie,

Just the motor and engineering is a lot of work but if you are prepared to take the time (and spend the money - it aint cheap) go for it.   

You will need to take care of subframes, brakes, steering, wheels, diffs -- everything except the panels.  I didnt appreciate the effort when I undertook a v6 conversion but I am getting close the licencing after quite a few years. I am not in the trade so it seemed to take twice as long as it needed to just to find people who could do what I needed.

I used CRS, Pat Gardnier and a cast of smaller guys (Rods Racks - he is the best, cant recomend him enough) to get a lot of my stuff done. 

Cheers
Mike

Good evening,

for my engineering report, and licensing, I have been asked to secure the rear seat (its a wagon). It is in its original mounting setup which I appreciated isnt the safest on the planet but I am not convinced I need to secure it to get the engineering report.  Anyone any experience with this in WA licencing?

Cheers
Mike

Hello,

I have had some rims make up (a while back) from 15" commodore outer with 8mm plate welded and keyed to suit a commodore stud pattern but for my engineering I am being asked to confirm this meets ADR compliance.

Any one have any ideas?

All help is appreciated

Cheers
Mike

Thanx Gary,

That does help.  Now I just need to find some

Cheers
Mike

I am not sure what they are called but inside a wagon (std) there is metal runners that screw to the spare tyre cover, tailgate and the back of the rear seat. there is a few different lengths and I am chasing the length that fits to the back of the seat and the one that fits onto the tailgate (not the short one).

Can anyone help?

Good morning,

I am looking for FC door hardware

- The internal mechanism that the internal opening handle connects to (looks a bit like a T) - drivers door
- The metal shaft that connects that piece to the lock on the drivers door
- 3 of the springs that sit behind the winder/door handles.

I can provide photos of ones that I have (except they will be different doors).

All help is appreciated.
Best Regards

Mike Miller

Not sure it is the same thing but I had some (very) wierd experiences with my indicators some time back and it turned out that it was caused by the wire that (didnt correctly) terminate at the junction box where all lighting wires etc all connect at the front of the engine bay.  

The bit that confused me is that it was the opposite side to the side that I was having the issue with (but my car has been messed with A LOT, so I guess it shouldnt be too surprising .

Cheers
Mike

I used a VL turbo (1inch) booster on a VS booster mount and just redrilled the holes.  It worked in my case and the car stops great.

Spyro,

I went through the same process and from my research you will have to get your 13 inch centres welded into 14 inch, with the 1 inch step, rims.  You have to be careful, you may have to go slightly wider.

In my case, I wanted 15 inch and I ended up getting 8 mm plate welded to some commodore rims with the centres removed and I am welding lugs to take the caps.  Not as ideal as I would have liked, but as close as I could get.

Not sure what state you are in, but summerfield in WA does this kind of work.

Here is an ebay link to them.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/LOWERING-BLOCKS-HOLDEN-FJ-FE-FC-FB-EK-EJ-EH-HD_W0QQitemZ4631066062QQcategoryZ50138QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

My cars not registered yet, but I am not expecting any problems.