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A mate if mine made his throttle bushes from nylon chopping board sections and drill press. These in a set of SUs. I was lucky enough to find a set with no play.


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Hi Jolls,
We had a night in our new Mercedes van at Bega recently, snd I know what you mean, gets cold. I would re-fit the missing choke, if only for evening out the air flow. I would also try snd tsp in to ported vacuum as you suggest. If nothing else it does help somewhat with economy when cruising on light throttle.


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Nice work Craig, and that paint job will definitely conjure up a few extra ponies.


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I have installed a filter between tank and pump although I am told this can create its own issues and I did at one point get air leaking in at the filter hose connections. They were perished. Apparently it is better to blow rather than suck through the filter as the pumps are better than pushing the fuel rather than trying to pull it. Also factory setup uses the steel braiding on the fuel hose to earth the block. Easily remedied with an earth strap. I also bent up and flared a new hard line from the tank to the pump. Not hard to do if you have some decent tools.


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Thanks Stinky. No wonder it?s so expensive. Hugely labour intensive.


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Bit over a year ago I bought a modified FB sedan from WA. It had originally been modified in QLD, with 179 and HR disc brakes, around 1996. It was later sold and registered in SA, passing roadworthy here after work on the lights and electrics. Not that long afterward it was sold to my friend in WA, who replaced the 179 with a black carby 202 and trimatic.

At this point the car had to undergo a full engineering process in WA. In the report the engineer stated that the stock wheels had been replaced with 13x7? rims of standard FB offset. I think most people on here will understand that it is not possible to fit standard offset 13x7? rims to HR front end, as they foul the outer tie rod end and upper control arm. The rims were in fact -7mm offset, rather than the standard, (+18mm if I recall). The engineering report issued in WA was incorrect in this fact, the implication being that the track was approximately 50mm wider than standard.

When I brought the car back to SA I presented it for an identity check, with evidence that it had previously been registered here with the HR running gear. Upon identifying the engine as being non-original and the car modified, I was informed that I would have to submit an application to modify, comply with a subsequently issued statement of requirements, and pass roadworthy inspection. This despite having been previously passed in SA.

No engineering certification was required, however the key requirements were that the track not exceed 1421mm, that modification work was carried out to a professional standard, that the work be carried out as specified and to accepted automotive engineering and trade practices and that the car met all appropriate requirements of the Road Traffic Act.

The fact is every state has its own laws, and SA doesn?t even acknowledge its own certification, once the registration has been revoked. Australia is a federation of individual sovereign states.


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Thanks Richard.


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Yep!


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My understanding is that the silver or gold bits are filled with some stiff form of grease or plasticine, before painting with the red background. Once the red is cured the grease is washed out and silver applied over the top. The trick being to effectively get all the grease off the bits that are supposed to be red, without removing it from the deeper indents. This based on EK grille badge.


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Happy result mate!


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Was a
One time ago Craig. I reckon I got the paint from Rocca Brothers, Bridge Rd Pooraka SA, so in the 90s.


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Paint the insides was the go I thought too. Used to run coloured incandescents as well but I like the amber and clear led idea.


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Seriously, great effort Craig.


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Our FC had the end cap missing. How about a bayonet handle, no wait, 8 ball. Bayonet handle for your dip stick. 😄


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I kind of like the look of the early utes with body coloured most everything. Might be an FE thing?


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I know it is getting harder and harder to find original chrome in usable condition. Still, I scour the swap meets and other sources and use the best I can find. I think the painted option looks good on a ute too, as long as it isn’t blinged up with special side trim.


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As far as door handles go Craig, I would use the reproduction ones rather than try and rechrome originals.


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Hi Alan,
Best way to check the plugs for your overheating issue is to shut the engine down when the symptom occurs. Engage neutral, switch off ignition and coast to a halt. Do not let the engine run even st idle for more than a few seconds. Pull a plug on the side of the road to inspect. You may want to let the engine cool before you pull the plug which is fine, but if you run the engine you won’t get a genuine reading of the plugs. If it is running lean of course they will be white.
Cheers,
Clay


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Good news on the leak then 😃
Easy fixed 👍


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Great progress Craig. ARP twelve point nuts may work for you, on original style studs. That’s what I had to use on my red with Warnerford Design swept manifold.

For the fuel I plumbed up standard diameter 5/16” hard lines straight from the pump, with SAE flares and brass unions. No regulator, rail or return feed, and no issue with flooding or leaks. I had to use small lengths of 1/4” hose to go from the 5/16” tube to the bowls.


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