Messages

Kevin,

Glad to see that you are on the mend, and am sorry to hear that you are selling your collection. I hope that your health continues to improve.

Keith

Looks great Jack! Well done! I noticed that you have the plates off your other FC on this one now, What are your plans for the other one?

Keith

[ebay]321111198636[/ebay]

I bought this little monster in January to keep myself entertained...

It is a 1949 Ford Anglia tourer, 10hp motor, 2.5inch bore, sidevalve Pictures show it on the trailer to take home.

Isn't it a womans right to have as many "shoes" as she wants??  ::) ::)

LMAO

Good to see that Jack has been trained well!

Hi Craig,

there was some photos on the forum some time back in relation to the rear of the front gaurds. The problem (from memory) is that the original door rubbers had a tag that came out of the rubber and went underneath the bolts. If you don't have any insertion rubber or similar under your bolt hole points then it will be difficult to get it all to line up properly.

Keith

Jack,

Let me know what side you need, I have some spare scuff plates here, depending on the side, they may be good enough for chroming.

Keith

There is a neoprene seal, if they are still available.

Keith

Rusty,

There is a right and a wrong way to do things, the best advice that i can give is to unpick the welds and replace the section like it was from factory. I have included a link to Streetneat's website, Andrew was on the forum sometime back before he moved to NZ.

If you follow the pictures and text, you will be able to see how it has been done and the correct way of  doing it, by unpicking the factory join.

http://gallery.oldholden.com/Streetneat/album300

Hope that this is of some help.

Keith

Congratulations Jamie,

Happy New House, Happy New Shed, Happy New Daughter and Happy New Year!

I hope that all goes well with you in 2012,

Good luck with everything!

Keith

Hi Amy,

You have a PM

Keith

An explanation on the math.....

The measurements you need to work this out are the bore and stroke dimensions. Take half of the bores' dimension and multiply it by itself, then multiply by Pi (3.14). Next, take the stroke dimension and multiply this by the previous figure you calculated, then multiply this number by the number of cylinders in the engine and there you have it.

This was a 138 bored 60 thou. So we take the 3.0625 bore of the 138 and add the 60 thou overbore which gives us 3.3.125 and divide it by 2, which gives us 1.57. We then multiply this figure of 1.57 by itself, and then by Pi which is 3.14 which then gives us 7.739786. We now take this figure and multiply this by the 138 cranks' stroke which is 3.125, 7.739786 multiplied by 3.125 gives 24.19. Now we then multiply this by the number of cylinders which is 6, so 24.19 multiplied by 6 is 145.14.  At last this gives us the final engine capacity of around 145 cubic inches.

Now if you want to know how many cubic centimetres your engine displaces you multiply the cubic inches by 16.43. So our 145 multiplied by 16.43 gives us 2384, which is how many cc's the engine now displaces.

You can use the method described for determining capacity with the bore and stroke dimensions in centimetres or millimetres to give you cc in the first place if you are more metric minded. But remember if you use millimetres you will have to move the decimal place three places to the left when you get your final figure for it to be in cubic centimetres.

Keith

A friend went and had a look, there is a fair bit of tin worm in the ute...

Alex,

The bottom car is currently on ebay. (its an FE  std listed as an FC).  The listing number contains the owners phone number. If any one is interested follow the link

[ebay]180724370294[/ebay]

Keith

Replace the fuel pump with a later model fuel pump, this way the pump is much smaller and not as much effort on the cam, fibre gear to drive the lower section of the pump which is not required

Red Motor pumps fit

Keith

Great photos as always, Alex! Thankyou for sharing them.

Keith

Vectra and Zafira are 5 x 110, Fitting these rims will create excessive stress on the wheel studs, and the likely hood of the nuts not seating into the rims is quite great. Close but no cigar

Keith

Denis,

I am sensing that something is not quite right here, I am assuming that the tyres that you have on your car woulod be something like a 205/60/13. If that is the case then when you take into account the final driver ratio through the gearbox is 1:1 and a final drive of 3.08:1 then at 100km/h the engine would be developing 2738 rpm.

even if you are using 50 series tyres, such as a 225/50/13 then this would translate to 2841 rpm, 205/50/13 takes it a bit further to 2948 rpm.

All of the above scenarios indicate less than 3,000rpm, which is hardly what I would call revving it's head off.

Have you checked to see if the clutch is slipping, or have you checked if the revs are about what I have indicated with a tacho? Are you sure that the diff ratio is 3.08:1?

Keith

Jack,

I would have thought that you would have electric wipers on yours?  ???

Keith