My 59 Wagon

[59wagon]

Hi Everyone.  I'm John and I purchased this project a few months ago. I've been following the Forum for a while, read a few builds, and really enjoy the conversations that happen here. I'm new to car restoration so a little nervous about the whole thing, however I'm going to give it a crack with the help of people like you.  I've picked up heaps of tips & info but still have lots more questions.  I've posted a few pic's pf the day I brought her home, and a couple in the shed on the rotisserie I built for her. Anyway, Happy New Year to all & I look forward to learning heaps from you and sharing my adventure.  Cheers,  John.




 

[FCRB26]

Welcome John
Awesome body one the old girl.
Looks like a great start.

[Old_Mt_Isa_Boy]

Great car. Hope it goes to plan.

Regards

Wayne b

[fcwrangler]

Welcome aboard John, look like you have a good starting point. Another Granite Grey/ India Ivory car to add to the list. All the best for the resto and keep the photos coming.
Jim

[fe350chev]

Gday John. Where bouts are you (sometimes profile info is old) and have you owned other earlies? That looks like a bewdy. There's more wagons out there than I ever imagined. I hope you get the satisfaction of learning by experience like most of us and you have made a good start by setting everything up!

[59wagon]

Gday John. Where bouts are you (sometimes profile info is old) and have you owned other earlies? That looks like a bewdy. There's more wagons out there than I ever imagined. I hope you get the satisfaction of learning by experience like most of us and you have made a good start by setting everything up!

Hi Dean, I'm in Shoalwater, Western Australia.  This is my first old car. I was originally looking for an FB sedan, as that was the first family car I grew up with as a kid. Mum & Dad had a Ford Zephyr when I was born, but got the FB soon after (followed by the HQ and then the VN). I've always liked wagons and when I saw this FC, I just loved the look of it.

[JOX515]

G'day John,  Must admit, the wagons always look good either stock or modified.  Good luck with your build and hope all goes well for you.  Cheers, Graeme

[mcl1959]

Clean looking project John, is it a local Perth car?  Can you find a chassis number on the engine bay skirt (drivers side)

Regards.   Ken

[FireKraka]

Welcome John;
As the other guys have said it looks like you have a good start for a project there mate.

There are some nice FE FC's in Perth John and people willing to help so dont be afraid to ask your questions as you say plenty of good ideas and support on here.

Regards
Neil H

[59wagon]

Clean looking project John, is it a local Perth car?  Can you find a chassis number on the engine bay skirt (drivers side)

Regards.   Ken

Hi Ken, as I understand it, according to the chassis number it's a Perth assembled car, and manufactured in Adelaide according to the Body ID Plate. In case it's not clear in the photo, the chassis number is FC101201P.  Cheers, John

[59wagon]

Welcome John;
As the other guys have said it looks like you have a good start for a project there mate.

There are some nice FE FC's in Perth John and people willing to help so dont be afraid to ask your questions as you say plenty of good ideas and support on here.

Regards
Neil H

Thanks, Neil.  I've read your build - great job and good luck with the ute. As you're in WA, I've got an engine question for you. Originally I was interested in putting a small V8 in, but soon found out that the laws don't allow that any more.  I've got the 138 grey that came with the car and may still put that in, but I'm interested in the V6 mod's a lot of people are doing. However, as I see the Regulations, the largest size allowed is less than 3.3 litres (3 x 1068kg standard sedan kerb weight). Is the one you used a 3.8 litre?  If so, how do you go about getting it passed for rego?  I spoke to a local Club guy a while back who said a 186 motor would get passed fine, but he even had trouble getting his 202 (3.3 litre) through.  Does it just depend on who inspects your car on the day?  Thanks heaps, John.

[mcl1959]

Thanks John, but there must be one to many numbers in the chassis number. It should only have 5 digits.

Regards.   Ken

[59wagon]

Thanks John, but there must be one to many numbers in the chassis number. It should only have 5 digits.

Regards.   Ken

Just went and had a look, Ken.  It's FC10120P, there's no 1 on the end - just looks like it in the photo.  Thanks, John.

[FireKraka]

Hi John;
I'm not sure where you got the info from re engine sizes but I will make some enquiries with the engineer that I used and get back to you.

You've got me worried John it will make life a lot harder for a lot of people if this info is correct I myself am wanting to V6 my ute and yes my sedan is a 3.8 series 2 motor.

I wil get back to you re this problem
regards
Neil H

[FireKraka]

John
I just checked ADR14 Section LA and came up with the below this was dated 2011 so unless it has changed these are the current rules as I see them I am still trying to get a hold of my engineer to confirm and yes I think it does come down to your engineer and who does the licensing inspection.

Table LA1 Recommended Maximum Engine Capacity
MASS OF VEHICLE
Maximum Engine Capacity (refer to notes below)
Naturally Aspirated Turbo/Supercharged

All vehicles originally weighing less than 800 kg.
Normally Aspirated - Original mass (kg) x 3.0 = max. capacity in cc’s
Supercharged - Original mass (kg) x 2.5 = max. capacity in cc’s

All vehicles originally weighing between 800 kg and 1100 kg.
Normally Aspirated - Original mass (kg) x 4.0 = max. capacity in cc’s
Supercharged - Original mass (kg) x 2.75 = max. capacity in cc’s

All vehicles originally weighing more than 1100 kg.
Normally Aspirated - Original mass (kg) x 5.0 = max. capacity in cc’s
Supercharged - Original mass (kg) x 3.0 = max. capacity in cc’s

Happy to show you my Sedan and its mods if you are interested and I'm in the process on my EK ute so it is easy to see on it at the moment.

Regards
Neil H

[59wagon]

 Thanks for the effort Neil. I should have checked again myself, but for some reason I thought when I last looked it was 3 x weight for under 1100kg and 5 x weight for over 1100kg. Anyway, that's good news and, YES, it'd be great to meet you for a chat and see your cars - that would no doubt save me heaps of time on my project.  I'll PM you.  Cheers,  John

[fe350chev]

I reckon these things ought to be deleted from everything because the people who wrote these and the people in admin roles aren't qualified to make such rules and that's why an engineer is adopted to ensure the car is safe. Otherwise why would a new car with better power to weight than that formula be allowed to be sold here from overseas? In practice that's what is happening, the engineer is making allowances to increase capacity through the mods that are done to facilitate a change to higher capacity. But none of us can say for sure. I think it would be great if some engineers have info on more popular car mods so that it states a guideline. In Adelaide I sent a spec sheet into the people at motor reg and they sent me back a guide as to the mods required in order to use that particular engine. That was very helpful and the start of the process.

[59wagon]

Hi Everyone, Happy Australia day.  I'm looking at making my own chassis kit, similar to what's in the photo, as I'm considering going down the V6 route.  I've noticed that some kits show the weld-on "Y" pieces that attach to the k-frame (bottom of Photo) and some don't.  Is that because they're not necessary (or perhaps only required for a V8)?  I don't mind making these if needed (I've got a beaut little Plasma Cutter) - can anyone tell me the plate thickness, please?  Also, are the rails that go from the cross member back to the spring hangers normally attached by plug or stitch welding to the floor pan for more stiffness?


Cheers, John

[fe350chev]

Hi. We put them on mine for v8 and they are advertised for all conversions on eBay etc. On torries for racing they use 6mm thickness but the fc and fe ones for street v8 and v6 are 3mm thick. I just double checked with the spares I've got in the pic below for you. I was going to put them on my taxi build if I find stressed metal but thats an original build. My build page is "Breton blue 327". We strengthened the front end by inserting more metal gussets into the box sections and replacing rooted bits with thicker steel. We also added the strengthening plates below. The rod shop kit is a bolt in and I've heard many ppl say that engineers prefer bolt on although I think welded is better.

I can trace a template and send it to you if it helps. Heres mine I just dug up. You can buy them for $100 off eBay. I'm sitting on these ones for the time being.  

[Frankiej]

Hey Deano I would love to copy them lol.