Rear Main Seal --- Leaking ?

[Blown_FC]

I think my rear main seal has decided to start leaking.

It looked fine when I bought the motor 4 years ago, but has not run since due to rebuild,

We left well alone when we rebuilt the motor, and filled her up with oil since....NO LEAKS.

Had her all put in the car, connected everyting up ( still not running at this stage )...filled her up with all oils and fluids and coolants....STILL NO LEAK.

Now I've got the old girl running, she has decided to start leaking on me.

Could it be, because it's just setttling in again, or could it be because I'm using thinner running in oil at the moment, or is it just stuffed.

I have put in some Engine Stop Leak addditive to help it along, but still no fix as yet.

If I need to replace it, is there an easier way than to pull the motor out, as I just finished getting it all in and connected, and the last thing I want is to have to start all over again for a $2 part.

If I do let it leak, will it be ok, if I just keep it topped up and a pan on the garage floor.  Would be easier and cheaper at the moment to keep an eye on it and keep her filled up rather than take the whole bloody motor out.

Any ideas

[Ed]

did somebody say leaky rear main??  

i was plagued by this recently.

anyway if you have a rope seal you can compress the upper half with the crank in and make some small packing pieces.

put a new lower in, but be sure to glue it using "cyanoacrylate" aka superglue.

this is why my seals kept turning.  i did replace my rope seal with a neoprene seal but this was for ease of getting the upper half seal in without crank removal.

I cut my seals exactly to block and cap height, most ppl told me that you cut the rope seal just a touch above the block or cap height to allow compression when torqued down.

if you can get the sump off and over the pick up then do it in car.  

I tried each way.. once removing motor, the next time(s) in car.

depends also how much leaky oil you are prepeared to have all over the nice underbody of the car.. and exahusts and.. everywhere..

i couldnt stand it, so i fixed it, just took me a few goes to do it right.

Cheers

Ed

[Blown_FC]

Ed....sounds promissing !

Sorry to sound stupid, but can you please step out ( in point form ), the steps you think I should take.

I got a bit mixed reading your reply about rope seals, neoprene seals, compressing ect.

Thanks heaps for your advice.

Mark

[Jockster]

G'day Mark
Before you panic too much, the rear main was leaking on my FC, which had been sitting around for about a year and a half not being used. I registered it recently and started to use it a bit more, now after 350 miles it appears to have taken up again and stopped leaking. From my experience with Holden red sixes, this doesn't appear uncommon in a motor that has had little use and just sat around for a while. I would see what happens when you put your normal oil in and run around for a while it may be ok. If not then you will probably need to fit a new one.
Cheers
Jockster

[Blown_FC]

Gee...you guys certainly know how to stop a guy from stressing.

I could just see me having to pull out the whole drive train, carbies off, hoses off, cables, wiring........just to replace a $2 part.

Heres hoping it settles itself.

Thanks again

Mark

[Trevor_B]

Hi Mark,
Important to understand the difference between neoprene & rope seals - which type do you have??

From memory, only greys and other early motors had "rope" seals. Reds and most modern V8's have the neoprene deals (some V8's even have a 1 piece seal).

If it's a grey with rope seal then there is a possibility it may swell a little with oil after a long period of no use - not a guarantee but worth waiting to see if it improves.

If it's neoprene then it's not gunna get any better.

Only other chance is to go for heavier oil or as a last ditch effort, an oil additive like Moreys.

Trevor_B

[Blown_FC]

Thanks Trevor_B.

My motor is a mildly worked Red 202 ( XU1 specs ).

When we had the block stripped for re-honing ect, the mechanic looked and said he believes it was a ROPE seal, and it would be better to leave well alone, as they are a pain to get out or in or something !

In Hindsight, we should have just done it whilst the motor was stripped, but as I don;t know much about these things, I followed his call.

Hmmmm, that reminds me of something...better change threads now......read on in the RANT RAVES and DUMMY SPITS section.

Cheers

Mark

[Trevor_B]

Hi Mark,
Checked my Torrie manual as well as a HQ one and both only show 2 piece neoprene seals.
There was an "early Type" for the Torana that had tabs on ends of the lower half, probably to help seal the bearing cap.
The later one and that shown for the HQ are both straight halves.
The possible good news is that the HQ Manual (genuine Holden) states that the seal can be replaced without removing the engine from the car.
Also checked EH & HD Manuals, those engines also had neoprene. Mind you - none of my references actually states they are for an XU1 motor - was your's an actual XU1 or rebuilt to those specs??
I could email you a scan of the manual pages if you want.
Regards,
Trevor_B

[Blown_FC]

Thanks guys.

Trevor-B.......my motor is just built to XU1 specs....(ie) it''s a red 202 with XU1 cam, Crankshaft, Flat Top Pistons, Triple Stromberg CD's on a Facoty Holden Triple Manifold, Extractors, and Electronic Ignition, with YT Head and YT Roller Rockers.

THe motor ( from what we can work out ), seems to be the last of the red motors.....that is......a UC Torana 3300 red motor.

ANy info, scans ect is greatly appreciated.

Thanks heaps

Mark

[Trevor_B]

Hi Mark,
Scans from Torana and HQ Manuals as requested.
They are about 500kb each so will take time to download:

http://members.optusnet.com.au/blackct/torrie1.jpg

http://members.optusnet.com.au/blackct/torrie2.jpg

http://members.optusnet.com.au/blackct/HQ1.jpg

http://members.optusnet.com.au/blackct/HQ2.jpg

Hope these help.
Regards,
Trevor_B