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Author Topic: Front sub frame  (Read 8633 times)
michaels57
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« on: July 16, 2002, 09:10:23 AM »
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looking for some advice on my fe ute

ah it has a hr front end and the front subframe is rusted out in both corner's below each side of the radiator much beyond repair i was wondering if i could buy a new one from say hatfield's amd if so how much? but also what are my options with making a new one

On another note i just pulled out the buckets  (there not originals) and found that that they are actually mounted on four pieces of box section the two at the front are roughly 100 ml high while the ones at the back are much lower is it possible to build a flat platform underneath the seats. What are the regulations regarding such a mod. Or can you mount the seats directly to the floor, the reason i ask because it seems to me  that the seats will be too low

any help kindly appreciated

REGARDS Michael
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HARKO
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« Reply #1 on: July 16, 2002, 11:40:09 AM »
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Your seats will need to be adjustable for the rego boys if they spot it ,Mounting to the floor is possible but as you said will probably be to low {I always try to mount to the original mounting points} a good solid frame with correct welding will get you through
Cheers
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mcl1959
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« Reply #2 on: July 17, 2002, 07:51:06 AM »
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Michael, Rare Spares make and supply replacement panel sections for the subframe, try these.

By the way the chap in Castlemaine is Hadfield not Hatfield.  The Hatfields were feuding with the McCoys last I heard. Grin


Ken
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michaels57
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« Reply #3 on: July 17, 2002, 08:12:38 AM »
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Thank's for the advice

How can i get in contact with the guys at Hadfield and any idea on what there worth???

Does anyone out there have one already that would consider selling it?

REGARDS
Michael in Melbourne
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fcvan
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« Reply #4 on: July 17, 2002, 01:50:56 PM »
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hi there michael.  I had a similar problem with my front subframe and just bought the Rare Spares replacement sections. They cost me $180 for the front sections(3 pieces.l/h and r/h front subframe member and the middle frame tie member) and $60ea for the subframe outer l/h and r/h legs.  Rod Hadfield does't sell these parts that you're after. The only parts he sells for the front subframe area are stiffening plates which are only needed for v6 and v8 applications and go under the    y section area and are welded in. They sell for $65.
Hope this helps you out and gives you an idea of the cost.
miikael :
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RET
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« Reply #5 on: July 17, 2002, 09:22:10 PM »
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For what it's worth both these organisations have quite extensive websites, that include pictures of the components they sell, and the prices.


Hope that helps,
RET
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michaels57
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« Reply #6 on: July 18, 2002, 04:03:36 AM »
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beuty
thanks for the help fellas

REGARDS Michael
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michaels57
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« Reply #7 on: July 18, 2002, 04:43:10 AM »
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Ok i have looked on the website ah i found the section but i amm unsure of the three pieces that i need
i need the left and right rails that run parralell to each other which then come up to the piece that runs parrallel with the bumper bar at 90 degree's (the third piece that i need
So my question is which three pieces is it?
And what do i do with them when i get them do they need to be welded in the same fashion as what the old ones were or....? How far back does the rail extend....?

RUST REPAIR FE-FC SUBFRAME & BODY
Part # Description Price UOM
RP10 SUBFRAME LEG FE FC FB EK OUTER RIGHT HAND $75.90 EA
rp11 SUBFRAME LEG FE FC FB EK INNER LEFT HAND $87.29 EA
RP12 SUBFRAME LEG FE FC FB EK INNER RIGHT HAND $82.23 EA
RP20 UNDER BODY CROSSMEMBER SECTION FE FC FB EK $27.59 EA
RP31 SUBFRAME FRONT MEMBER FE FC FB EK LEFT HAND $75.66 EA
RP32 SUBFRAME FRONT MEMBER FE FC FB EK RIGHT HAND $75.66 EA
RP64 SUBFRAME TIE MEMBERS FRONT FE FC FB EK $92.35 EA
RP9 SUBFRAME LEG FE FC FB EK OUTER LEFT HAND $75.90 EA


Grin Grin
I thought i would put the list in so then i know exactly what to order preston is a long way to go for me

THANKS FOR THE HELP ONCE AGAIN FELLA"S
Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin

Ill keep the questions comin and if you guys can keep the answers comin there will be a p-plate fe ute on the road some time next year
thanx once again

REGARDS Michael Cool Cool
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mcl1959
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« Reply #8 on: July 18, 2002, 09:31:47 AM »
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Michael you need RP31, RP32 & RP64.
The rusted areas must be carefully cut out and the replacements welded in.
Once you get started it will all become apparent.

Ken
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fcvan
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« Reply #9 on: July 18, 2002, 02:13:36 PM »
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Michael.  Just remember that these rust repair sections are only the lower half of the chassis.  There is a lip that sticks out about 10mm where they weld the 2 halves together. These replacement sections are only for the bottom half (on the 3 pieces you need) so if top rusted at all you will need to fabricate your own pieces. They run back as far as between the staybilizer bar bracket holes and front crossmember forward hole. (about a foot back)
Good luck
Miikael
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michaels57
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« Reply #10 on: July 19, 2002, 06:41:59 AM »
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 Huh Huh Huh Huh Huh Huh Huh Huh Huh Huh Huh Huh Huh
Ok thanks for that
Now it seem's i face quit a problem because i need both top and bottom (i can stick my fingers through one side and and out the other in both corners.
So if i need to make the top sections myself, what's stoppin me from remaking the whole thing myself. I realize you probably can't so how do i go about making the other two top sections.

Thanks Once Again
Michael Cool Cool
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fe_buster
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« Reply #11 on: July 19, 2002, 09:37:11 AM »
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Personally, I would look around for a good second hand subframe, should work out cheaper and quicker. Wink          

Don't get confused with Bob Hatfield, he had a falcon ute Grin
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mcl1959
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« Reply #12 on: July 19, 2002, 09:40:54 AM »
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Michael - Are the holes in the top on the very front apron section ?  This is not too bad and these pieces can be easily made; but if the holes are in the the tops of the side pieces then start with another subframe - the one youve got sounds way to rusty to repair.  Once you have to remove the top and the bottom of the subframe the chance exists that you will lose panel / bonnet / grille fit and the whole front of the car wont fit right.

Come round and see me - I have a good restorable subframe that sounds way better than yours.

Ken
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michaels57
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« Reply #13 on: July 21, 2002, 12:14:17 PM »
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Apreciate that Ken,
I will be in touch early next week and hopefully we can tee up something.


Thanx to the other fella's as well for the advice, much apreciated.
REGARDS
Michael
Cool Cool Cool
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