Grey Motor Rocker Adjustment

[TorqueFC]

how on earth do u adjust them???

what we have tried is getting the lifter so it is all of the way up, then tightenin down the adjustment screw until the valve is all the way open. is this correct? or is there a right way to do it

[ACE]

Hi Torque,
Do you have a Holden Workshop Manual?
If not, I suggest you get one  
It will answer most of your questions
ACE  

[SpeciFEcation]

Try it the other way around.

Make sure the lifter is all the way down (so the valve would be closed) and then set a rough starting clearance of 10 thou (.010") for each (inlet/exhaust). This should allow the engine to start.

You will need to warm the engine metalwork (not just the oil) and set the clearances .008" for the intake and .012" for the exhaust valves.

I'm no guru - I'm just pretty much re-writing what is in the service manual. I can assure you that this got me underway last weekend.

I can scan and e-mail you the relevant pages if you like.

[TorqueFC]

ok heres the problem. we tried what you said, and as turning the motor over we ended up with a bent pushrod. hmmmmm, anyway so what your saying is to get the lifter all the way down, then put a feeler guage (.10")between the rocker and the valve spring

[SpeciFEcation]

ok heres the problem. we tried what you said, and as turning the motor over we ended up with a bent pushrod. hmmmmm, anyway so what your saying is to get the lifter all the way down, then put a feeler guage (.10")between the rocker and the valve spring

When you first set the clearances, turn the motor over by hand. That way you can observe the stroke of the piston and know where the valve is in its open/close cycle. It will also guard against future bent pushrods because you will feel the resistance. The resting state of a valve is closed so when the lifter is at its lowest (and the rocker arm has the .010" clearance), the valve must be closed. Your way would see the valve always have tension on it (and therefore it would not be in a totally closed position) - even when the lifter is in the lowest position.

You will need to do this for each valve.

I think I may be being pedantic here but you put the feeler gauge between the rocker arm and the valve stem.

Hope that helps some more.

[TorqueFC]

"what we have tried is getting the lifter so it is all of the way up, then tightenin down the adjustment screw until the valve is all the way open. is this correct? or is there a right way to do it "

this is the only way we can do it. ended up having to replace another pushrod today......


and i guess now it might make sense why we cant set it as the book says. our head has red motor valves in it, im guessing this is what is causing trouble

[mcl1959]

No you have to do it as spec says, lifter all the way down and valve shut.   Red valves will work but remember that there are 3 different pushrod lenghts to suit different valves.  You may have the wrong pushrods for your valves

Ken

[TorqueFC]

but we tried as the book says, using feeler guage etc, and then ended up bending another pushrod, hmmmmmmm what a bastard lol

so what do you think it would be best to do/try now

[greyone]

I think a check of cam timing may be in order no 1 piston tdc valves should be rockin also recheck line up marks on your timing gear regars mal

[SpeciFEcation]

I think a check of cam timing may be in order no 1 piston tdc valves should be rockin also recheck line up marks on your timing gear regars mal

I agree with Mal.

Perform the initial ignition timing setup sequence according to the manual (Electrical System, Page 294, Section 12-46). That way you will know where in the timing sequence things are.

Turn the engine over by hand. Once you are satisfied with the overall operation, use the starter motor.

As a side thought, perhaps you have one or more sticky valves. Has this motor been sitting for a while? I assume a lot here.

[TorqueFC]

umm no motor has just been rfully rebuilt, and the head has just been reconditioned with 202 valves not even 2 weeks ago!!!!!!!!!

also when we pu the cam in, it was installed correctly so there are no probs there!!

[SpeciFEcation]

umm no motor has just been rfully rebuilt, and the head has just been reconditioned with 202 valves not even 2 weeks ago!!!!!!!!!

also when we pu the cam in, it was installed correctly so there are no probs there!!

Geez, all that makes it a hard call to diagnose (...on the forum) without seeing it.

I'm sorry, I don't know what to suggest next.

[SpeciFEcation]

Geez, all that makes it a hard call to diagnose (...on the forum) without seeing it.

I'm sorry, I don't know what to suggest next.

Nope.. Hang on...

Are you using the original rods? Is it possible that they are simply too long? Consider the combination of the 202 valves and the machined head?

OK. Now I'm really outta ideas.

[TorqueFC]

yes now you know why im confused

what im thinking is, is there a chance that red motor valve stems ar slightly shirter, which means that it would mean that the valve spring would infact sit lower than usual

[SpeciFEcation]

yes now you know why im confused

what im thinking is, is there a chance that red motor valve stems ar slightly shirter, which means that it would mean that the valve spring would infact sit lower than usual

If anything, perhaps they are longer. That's why you are bending push rods...

[TorqueFC]

the thing is though, then we get a lifter all the way up, then tighten down the adjustment screw til the valve is all the way open, ther is no adjustment left at all, it is virtually fully adjusted, the slotted screw's head is level with the locking nut

[craiga]

Darcy,

Stop, think, and start again.

With all the plugs out rotate the engine until you find TDC on CYL 1. To determine this have someone turn the harmonic balancer while you cover No1 plug hole with your finger. You'll feel the pressure build and air start to escape when the piston is coming to TDC. Now go slowly and the ball on the flywheel will move towards the timing mark on behind the dizzy. At this point both inlet and exhaust valves on cylinder 1 should be completely closed. If they are not, the cam has been installed in the wrong spot.

Now if you do have the valves on CYL 1 both closed, the timing mark aligned, and the piston definately at TDC then everything is mechanically OK. You can also check the dizzy is in the right spot - the rotor should be over the no 1 mark  on the dizzy housing - or alternately put the cap on and it the leading edge of the rotor should be right at the no 1 spot on the cap. OK, that's all done.

Now carefully back off both the rocker adjustments on cyl 1. Now set them as has been suggested - .008" for the intake and .012" for the , maybe blow them out a couple of thou to allow for expansion as the engine temperature reaches normal operating specs.

OK, now if you have trouble setting the adjustment there is some other mechanical issue affecting your setting.

Before you condemn it though, do the whole process again just to make certain. Do it in an organised fashion and you'll find the answer.

Its easy to spray bullets but there is no guarrantee of success unless you aim the gun.

Keep at it mate - you'll get there.

Cheers,

Craig.

[TorqueFC]

been thre tried that, three times so far!!!!! really beggining to annoy us

can i adjust the rockers this way just to get it running or is this a bad idea??

"get a lifter all the way up, then tighten down the adjustment screw til the valve is all the way open" or is this a big no no

[SpeciFEcation]

been thre tried that, three times so far!!!!!

"get a lifter all the way up, then tighten down the adjustment screw til the valve is all the way open" or is this a big no no

Sorry to be so terse but you need to do the initial setting up with the "LIFTER DOWN".

And yes, I'd say it is a big no-no. You will bend pushrods. But you already know that now.... This is probably even more important in your case as this is not a standard engine. You need to minimise any risk of damage by starting with loose settings.

Twice now you've been told that you need the lifter down and the valve closed. No wonder you have no adjustment left - you are working the system like you want to get maximum opening for the valve. It simply won't work - you need compression to make the engine work that's why you need to make the adjustments with the valve closed.

Lifter down = valve closed. Lifter up = valve open.

The four strokes of an engine are (in loose terms):

1. Intake
2. Compression
3. Power/ignition
4. Exhaust

...and the cycles starts again.....

[gp]

Darcy, as the guys have said.....stop, think, start again.
Lifters MUST BE DOWN WITH VALVES SHUT, then you need to adjust so you have CLEARANCE between rocker arm & top of valve ( .008"for the intake & .012"for the exhaust). DO NOT TRY TO ADJUST IT WHEN LIFTER IS UP AND VALVE IS OPEN!
Have you confirmed that No. 1 is on TDC (as Craiga said), and does the position of rotor in you distributor confirm this? If so, then set the rockers on No. 1. Then turn the engine over by hand until the rotor is pointing to the next plug lead, No. 5 (remember firing order 153624), then adjust No.5. then turn it over until No.3 is ready to fire and adjust that. Do you get the idea yet? Keep doing this until each cylinder is done. This should make it close enough for the engine to run. Ideally, they should all be set again when the engine is hot, with the engine running.........sometimes easier said than done.

Let us know how you go.

Cheers,

Graham