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Author Topic: radiaters for a red  (Read 7593 times)
andyk
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« on: May 26, 2001, 12:00:00 PM »
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Im fitting a red donk with a bit of work done on it into the FC. Engine mounts have been moved back on the HR crossmember,but, the fan seems to be to close to fit a radiater. I plan to run an aircon as well. Any sugestions for an optimum size of radiater, and hints on how to install it,would be well recived. PS I have a grinder and welder for instilation. Thanks.
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Pabs
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« Reply #1 on: May 27, 2001, 12:00:00 PM »
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On a side issue what kind of under dash air con unit will you be fitting? Any body know of a production unit that is a good fit?
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Tony FC5859
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« Reply #2 on: May 28, 2001, 12:00:00 PM »
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Hi Pabs,  I've got an air cond unit for my FE.Don't know what brand it is,but it is an after market one out of a V8 HZ. The compressor sits on top of the motor just of centre on the passenger side,great for a small engine bay! The evaporator unit will fit inside the dash but you loss the glove box. It may fit in the centre behind the speaker grill but I haven't tried,I'd have to rip out the heater etc just to see if it would or not. I also found it will fit underneath the standard FE front  bench seat in the centre.You'd have to modify the link that runs underneath the bench from side to side for moving the seat back and forwards.You could also probably modify the the plastic housing a little bit for added clearance or raise the seat a bit 1/2"to 1" maybe.The idea has potential.I was going to go the V8 route a few years back so I planned to have a/c ,p/steer etc but I cant bring my self to cut up such a nice car, so I going back to the grey and keep it original. I'll dig it out an measure it up if you want .It might give you some ideas .Are you fitting a V8? Is it any use to you? I don't need it any more. Cheers  Tony

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Leigh (Guest)
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« Reply #3 on: May 28, 2001, 12:00:00 PM »
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Hi Tony I'm about to start a 253-Trimatic conversion on my FC and plan to fit A/C, Cruise and power windows. I had planned P/steer too but have since found out you loose even more turning circle than just std rack & pinion, so gave that one away. I hope to fit a modern type of system with a rotary compressor as they don't drain much power. I'm interested to know though how big the condensor is if one came with the system you've got. Will it fit behind the grille OK etc?  I'm still in the process of gathering bits & information at the moment so any ideas you have or have heard about will be welcome. Cheers Leigh
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Pabs
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« Reply #4 on: May 29, 2001, 12:00:00 PM »
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At the moment I have a SS v8 efi and T5 box on the floor.. it has aircon and power steer on it. I Have found a way to connect a rear mounted rack with the power steer attached. No loss of turning circle.... hopefully. I have no dilemmas is cutting up this ute as it is full of rust anyway. I have the condesor out of a commodore and it is quite small. I am looking for any suggestions or inspiration that can Help me do this conversion. I will keep you posted as to what I have done and how it is progressing if you are interested.
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Tony FC5859
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« Reply #5 on: May 29, 2001, 12:00:00 PM »
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Pabs,i take it you mean evaporator unit,the bit that blows the air with the fans in it? In a ute ,too easy! Why not mount it on the outside back wall of the cab underneath the tray(heaps of room and completely out of sight)Saves trying to stuff it into the dash somewhere. Could possibly run a ducting pipe and  the refrigerant lines thru the wall, underneath or thru the console and bring the air duct up under the dash, split it into two then  hook them onto the demister outlets on top of the dash.Maybe also fit outlets into the rear cab wall on the either side of the buckets down low out of sight .You'll then need to fit return air ducts so the cold air is recirculated back thru the blower unit. Fit those thru back wall again(just needs to be an opening or grill), maybe  underneath the seats this time then run them  back into the blower unit. That way you would have say 4 cold air supplies in the cab and 2 return air back to the unit.The cold air gets pumped in ,sucked out and re-chilled again.Should work a treat. Some thing to mull over and play with. Your conversion sounds interesting,yeah keep me posted on how it goes. Hope you understand what I'm getting at. Cheers  Tony
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Tony FC5859
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« Reply #6 on: May 29, 2001, 12:00:00 PM »
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Hi Leigh.It didn't have a condensor.Had planned to fit the one out of my statesman.It will fit behind the grill but I was going to modify it a bit to help with air flow and keep the air going thru the radiator properly. The setup I have is a jap made alloy unit.Small and light not like the standard cast iron Holden boat anchor.At a guess being jap it would be a rotary compressor.The brackets bolt to the water pump and the front of the head and also holds the alternator underneath.The pump sits up on top just in front of the off side rocker cover.Up out of the way, and still allows enough room for virtually any manifold setup,can even still fit a tunnel ram with no probs! Have got your air cond unit yet? If not you can have this one if you want,I don't need it now.Got the evaporator, crank pulleys,dryer assy, a few hoses and the comp and brackets.Can send a couple of pics of it mounted on a tunnel rammed 253 if youd like to see how it all goes together and the clearances.Just give a few days.  Let me know if I can be of any more help.  Cheers  Tony
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Ed (Guest)
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« Reply #7 on: May 29, 2001, 12:00:00 PM »
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Hi Leigh, If youre planning to toy around with a V8, have u considered the chev/TH350 option?, advantages are the motor is physically smaller, and from experience, it's hard enough to put yor alternator in (use a top mount HK bracket), let alone compressors and other bits and pieces.the double pulley at the front will probably also foul with your condensor/radiator too.  I had to move my 253 rear ward about 1.5 inches and the firewall has been recessed, this has brought the oil pump too close to the subframe rail, and a bit of thinking has to be done to get around this (probably remote mounted oil filter).  The radiator support has also been modified to accomodate a larger radiator.a condensor could be mounted forward of this in the large space behind the grille. with respect to steering have u considered the rear xmember mounted commodore rack and pinion? hope this  info is useful
Ed
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Tony FC5859
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« Reply #8 on: May 29, 2001, 12:00:00 PM »
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Ed, I saw a kit at a speed shop in Canberra years ago to remote mount the oil filter,about 50/60 bucks.Made from alluminium.If you had access to a lathe and some blocks of alli it would be easy to make. This also allows you to fit an oil cooler into the circuit as well.The shop has now closed but maybe have a look around,some must still make them. Cheers  Tony
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Leigh (Guest)
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« Reply #9 on: May 29, 2001, 12:00:00 PM »
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Hi again Tony,
The a/c bits would be much appreciated, so far I've only got the 253 & tranny, part of a chassis kit and ideas but still plenty of enthusiasm. I'm in Melbourne & please - contact me at ldd007@Hotmail.com
Also Ed - if you read this, I'd really like to hear about your conversion too please. I know small block is the easy way, but I've got the 253 already & am on a limited budget. Thanks  
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Ed (Guest)
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« Reply #10 on: May 30, 2001, 12:00:00 PM »
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Hi Tony,
I think i saw a kit distributed by Earls not long ago, and available at brads speed shop.  ideally i would like the entire lower section of the oil pump including the threaded part to be awhole lot smaller or remote mounted. it fouls on the subframe, but i am not entirely keen on heating the subframe and denting it in either, it looks a little un-thought.  Any ideas? cheers
Ed
Leigh - i have sent u my contact details to hotmail if u would like any advice on things.  still getting there with mine though, but mechanicals/ drive line is in place, still getting her prettied up.
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Tony FC5859
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« Reply #11 on: May 31, 2001, 12:00:00 PM »
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Hi Ed, Just athought,but how about a belt driven oil pump like the scavenage pumps on a dry sump system.I think the old Group C 308's had a dry sump didn't they? That way you could completly remove the oil pump,run some hoses from the original pump mouting surface on the block ( maybe make an alli plate to bolt on with nipples screwed into it)then into the new pump and from there to a remote mounted oil filter and oil cooler.May be more touble than it's worth, it's just an idea. Or another thing I've seen done to get extra clearance is to cut the section out of the chassis,not all they way thru the chassis rail  , just enough to make whatever fit,then get a piece of thick wall steel pipe cut it length ways so it looks like a C section then weld this into the cut out.Then grind back the excess and blend the edges of the steel pipe  into the chassis rail.That way the chassis has a  nice scollop in it and still retains the strength.If your not sure what I 'm getting at I can do drawing and email it to if you want. Food for thought.  Cheers Tony
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Ed (Guest)
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« Reply #12 on: May 31, 2001, 12:00:00 PM »
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Hi Tony, I have thought about the scavenge pump a bit, however as you suggest the tooling around is prohibitive.  i'm leaning toward your sectioning idea.  also i thought of semi adopting you idea of using the existing oil pump and separating it in two by unbolting it, and remote joining im a similar method to what u have described.   thanks heaps for your input..  i'll keep you posted.. Ed
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Tony FC5859
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« Reply #13 on: May 31, 2001, 12:00:00 PM »
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How much clearance do you need? Iv'e got a spare 253 in the shed  up on a stand and I 'll have a play and see what else I can come with, as far as modifying the pump goes. Let me know.
Tony
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Tony FC5859
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« Reply #14 on: May 31, 2001, 12:00:00 PM »
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How much clearance do you need? Iv'e got a spare 253 in the shed  up on a stand and I 'll have a play and see what else I can come with, as far as modifying the pump goes. Let me know.
Tony
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Ed (Guest)
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« Reply #15 on: May 31, 2001, 12:00:00 PM »
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I need about 8mm more clearance, at the moment ive got abut 2mm, I know when the motor torques up it will knock on the rail.  its minor, but something id rather have sorted out properly, rather than dodgily.
Brad, have you got any suggestions?
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Tony FC5859
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« Reply #16 on: June 01, 2001, 12:00:00 PM »
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Ed I had a play last nite, you could get about 10 mm.might be a bit  of stuffing around for you though,a bit of machining is required.Are using the cast iron bodied pump?I don't think the alloy one would be suitible for what I came up with. See what Brad has to say first.
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Ed (Guest)
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« Reply #17 on: June 06, 2001, 12:00:00 PM »
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is the alloy one off the later EFI motors?
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Tim
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« Reply #18 on: June 11, 2001, 12:00:00 PM »
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I have an FC running with a 202 set up the same as yours. If you don,t want to cut up the front rad support & modify it to fit a bigger radiator,which can be a hassle as it can encroach towards the grille & bonnet latch due to  the longer red mtr. I have kept the orginal radiator (have it serviced/recored)in place & fitted a thermo fan on the grille side which works perfectly. Use the thermostat neck off a grey mtr & its a bolt up job.
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Tim
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« Reply #19 on: June 11, 2001, 12:00:00 PM »
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I have an FC running with a 202 set up the same as yours. If you don,t want to cut up the front rad support & modify it to fit a bigger radiator,which can be a hassle as it can encroach towards the grille & bonnet latch due to  the longer red mtr. I have kept the orginal radiator (have it serviced/recored)in place & fitted a thermo fan on the grille side which works perfectly. Use the thermostat neck off a grey mtr & its a bolt up job.
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