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Author Topic: Rear Brake Cylinders  (Read 6536 times)
Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius
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« on: March 31, 2004, 07:29:11 PM »
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Sorry if we have covered this before, but I couldn'y find the info I needed by searching the previous posts.

Anyway,
Which rear brake cylinders do I need to fit to my original FE diff if I am running Torana Discs on the front? I also have an LC/J Master Cylinder and Booster fitted to the firewall.
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FCwagon
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« Reply #1 on: March 31, 2004, 08:11:58 PM »
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Stinky,
The best setup is to use HR rear cylinders but they don't fit up to the FE backing plates and the HR backing plates won't fit the FE diff housing so you'd need a full transplant of diff housing. FB rear cylinders are smaller than FE and might be a solution but I think they will still be too big and lock-up the rear under firm braking. You'll need to fit a proportioning valve in the rear line somewhere. The p valves off Torana are the most popular and if the Torana rear cylinders are the same diametre as the FB ones you won't need to mess around readjusting it.
cheers
Leigh
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Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius
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« Reply #2 on: April 01, 2004, 01:28:21 AM »
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Forgot to mention the proportioning valve will be LC-J Torrie too.
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Dr Terry
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« Reply #3 on: April 01, 2004, 07:41:14 AM »
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Hi Guys.

Just thought I would throw in my 2 cents worth. As FCwagon says the best way is to put in a later rear end to take the later brakes.  EJ to HR is perfect, because it fits straight in & uses the same brakes as Toranas.

You mentioned using an LC/LJ proportioning valve. These models don't use a proportioning valve they use the same small 9/16"rear cylinders as HD/HR with front discs, but no valve. These work OK, but the later LH/LX/UC system with the 7/8' rear cylinders & a proportioning valve in the rear line is probably the better option.

Don't muck around with the early typr rear brakes matched to front discs, use the later duo-servo type brakes, they just work better.

Dr Terry.
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Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius
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« Reply #4 on: April 01, 2004, 08:41:44 AM »
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Thanks Dr Terry, good to see that you are still around.
So.... whos got a HR diff for me then?  Grin

and will the FE handbrake cable fit up without fuss?
« Last Edit: April 01, 2004, 08:47:59 AM by stinky » Logged

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« Reply #5 on: April 01, 2004, 08:27:05 PM »
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Hi Stinky,
The FE brake cable won't fit as the HR has a different attachment set-up into the backing plate.
I've used normal HR cables and changed the rear body mount brackets to suit or if the cable is in good nick you can run the outside case thru the original FE brackets to stop it flopping about. This is not the ideal answer as you need to make sure the inner cable always runs free.  Because the HR cable is a different length you'll also need to make up a link to extend to your front pivot.
The best solution is to have a cable made up at one of the specialists. ie HR mounts on the rear of the outer case and FE mounts on the front end with the right length inner cable.
cheers,
Leigh
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Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius
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« Reply #6 on: April 01, 2004, 08:54:53 PM »
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How about this?

Could I modify the backing plate of the FE diff to accept the Torana brake cylinders?
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« Reply #7 on: April 01, 2004, 09:17:46 PM »
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Hi Stinky,
It sounds like you want to try and retain the FE Diff!
Why not see if you can get the FE wheel cylinders sleeved to 9/16'' with brake pistons made up to suit? Wink
Regards ACE Cool
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Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius
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« Reply #8 on: April 01, 2004, 09:59:12 PM »
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I am not overly attached to the FE diff, I just want to keep it as simple as possible. One brake place I called poo-pooed the idea of a re-sleeve, I might try some others.
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« Reply #9 on: April 02, 2004, 06:31:20 AM »
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Hey Stinky,
I'd try an engineering shop Wink
ACE Cool
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« Reply #10 on: April 02, 2004, 03:55:20 PM »
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Hi there Stinky,

I would go the HR housing for your car, it is an easy swop and bolts strait in ( you must use the HR shocker mounting plates and rubbers) and you will be abel to run any diff center and wheel cylinders up to HZ.
The hand brake cable is not a real issue just a bit of a alteration to the pivot length (and if you are fitting a chassis kit you my be relocating the hand brake set up any rate), as FC holden said you have to change the rear cable mounts and also use a reducer from the FE brake line to the smaller brake line of the HR diff.
Dont be fooled if you go with HR housing that you have to run the rear HR disk linings, you can run the standard set up and PBR have a 9/16ths wheel cylinder or a 7/8ths cylinder used with a proportioning valve that bolts in.
You should be abel to pick up a HR housing complet for $80.00 to $150.00 and if you think about it you could be spending more than that converting your own FE diff.
As you proberly know the HR diff is the same width as the FE FC and your wheels will still fit after all the work you have done with them.

I think it is the better option as parts are easyer to obtain and are a lot cheaper.

Mate just my $ worth and hope it helps you !  Smiley

Regards,
Steve
« Last Edit: April 02, 2004, 04:02:38 PM by digger » Logged
fcfromscratch
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« Reply #11 on: April 02, 2004, 07:03:54 PM »
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Hi Digger,

as for running rear "HR disk" drum linings (or not), I found out the hard way that the shoes ARE different for each....the centre web on the "HR disk" rear drum shoes is longer to facilitate the shorter push rod with the 9/16" slave cyl's....normal slaves have a pushrod about 1 1/2" long with a slot that fits on the shoe web....the "HR disk" rear drum shoes don't because the pushrod on the slave cyl ends just outside of the slave body...its a really stumpy pushrod.....

may be different if you use Torrie slaves, I don't know about them.....

(by the way, I have a spare set of HR rear linings for a drum brake f/end sitting on my shelf....oh well, you live and learn!!)

both my FC's have the HR axle setup with HR front disks and I'm happy with them....better parts availability (I got 4 rubber spring pads for the HR axle from Holden dealers over here in WA, only $6 each), more options with diff centres, better brake actuation, self adjusting mechanisms can be fitted, diff fits straight in.....way to go

cheers...Brad
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Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius
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« Reply #12 on: April 02, 2004, 07:55:06 PM »
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OK, I am convinced, doesn't seem to be much around privately at the moment though. A local wrecker will do a diff minus centre for $120, so I'll probably go with that.

Thanks for all the tips and advice guys.

One more question, Digger, why do I need to use the HR Shocker Mount plates?
« Last Edit: April 02, 2004, 07:56:49 PM by stinky » Logged

robbzfc58
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« Reply #13 on: April 02, 2004, 09:22:07 PM »
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stinky   you need to use the hr shocky mounts cos they are attached to the plates that clamp the  housing to the springs...so make sure you get those from the wrecker too......its  more simple than it sounds
           cheers trev
« Last Edit: April 03, 2004, 02:39:56 AM by robbzfc58 » Logged

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Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius
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« Reply #14 on: April 03, 2004, 07:01:54 AM »
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What I mean is, if I am just replacing the diff and not the springs, shouldn't all the FE gear fit?
I hope so, coz I have new FE springs on order, $400 odd for the pair. Huh
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« Reply #15 on: April 03, 2004, 07:14:10 AM »
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yep    use your new springs with the hr diff brackets
    they are a perfect fit
          trev
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Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius
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« Reply #16 on: April 10, 2004, 06:05:56 AM »
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Gotta laugh, took a peek under the junk-yard dog today and voila HR Diff! I've got one lined up for next week, so I guess JYD may get a make-over yet  Grin
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