Hadfield Chassis Kit

[Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius]

Was under the car today trial fitting the chassis kit (in between detailing the carbie).
Anyway, I fitted the sub-frame connector and it is hard-up against the existing rail that the main section of the kit bolts to(the part you need to drill 4 holes each side for). The problem with this is that the main section won't be able to slide into position over the existing chassis rib.

1. Do I force it? this would, in effect put force on the subframe, pushing it forward.

2. Do I cut and shut something, if so what? I guess a few mm out of the subframe connector would be the easiest.

3. Has anyone fitted the kit without using a right-angle drill?

A simplistic side view if it helps.

Subframe    
connector         Existing rail
                       |
  -------|      | |_| |-----------
  -------|      |___|-----------
                   Main Chassis Kit
       -->       <--

[JB]

Hi Glenn,

It sounds like you have rare spares repair section fitted to the car if you can't get the main rails fitted and this would also account for the subframe connector fitting hard up.

I had another section folded up to match the original underbody crossmember, and then welded these in to suit.

The rear of the half chassis was put on first and then drilled the holes from either side of the underbody crossmember, the front rails then fitted up ok.

Hope this helps

Jason.

[Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius]

It doesn't look like it has been repaired, the U section of the rear rails fits over the original OK, but hits the floor before the bottom of the U reaches the bottom of the rib.

I'll crawl under the car again soon and get some photos.

[JB]

Hi Glenn,

I believe mine also did hit the floor before becoming flush at the bottom, but I left this to allow water and or dirt to clear and not rust anything.

Jason.

[Fast_Eddie]

Stinky,

The location of the support points you are using for chassis stands while you are crawling around underneath the car may be distorting the body the extra few millimetres you require to fit the subframe connectors between the old engine mount holes and the crossmember.

Try placing stands under the rear axle, and then jack the front up under the front crossmember, making sure you place stands in appropriate places on each side of the vehicle at the front to maintain stability in case the jack fails, but don't drop the car's weight on to them.

This method may give you the extra margin you require to fit the rails.

I haven't got to the stage of drilling out the four holes, but I can't see how it can be done with the subframe in the vehicle any other way than with a 90 degree drill. Not a common tool, either!

Regards

Edward

[Blown_FC]

Sorry to jump on to your topic ( this is not a hijack )...I've just ordered my chassis kit from Rod, and have specifically requested them to make me a kit that fits around my rare spares crossmembers, and also at the right height, so it does fit flush up to the bottom of the crossmemebr.

My question is...how is the best way to fit the kit to the car.....the FC is currently without doors, boot, windows, interior, subframe, front end, diff and so on....in other words, she is a totally stripped shell, and she is also lying on her side on a matress and tied up to the shed rafters so it don't go anywhere....

i've done this, so I can reld up and holdes and gaps and clean up the underbody, and respray it in sealer....so can I fit the chassis kit whilst it's on it's side.....it would be easier to drill and weld if needed

ANy ideas ?

Mark

[Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius]

I would wait until the sub-frame is back on, there is a piece each side that ties the sub-frame to the main rails. This piece has a plate that bolts up to the three existing holes on the subframe, the other end then bolts up to the U section that goes over your rare-spares xmembers, which you need to drill holes in. Where you drill those holes will be partially dependant on the sub-frame connectors.

[Fast_Eddie]

Mark,

My advice would also be to refit the subframe, even if it was to be removed again for detailing etc after the holes etc were drilled for the kit.

I've seen a very neat installation where the rear of the chassis rails and the floor member sections of the body have been modified to enable the chassis to be bolted in rather than welded, and I plan to copy this installation for my project.

I'm waiting for the body to be returned from the blasters, where I'm getting the floor done inside and underneath, as well as the firewall, at which time I shall refit the subframe and then place the shell on its side to work on as you have.

Regards

Edward

[fastjbav6]

The April 2004 edition of Street Machine, page 130 shows the CRS Chassis Kit fitted to a EK ute with red 6 cyl and VN/VP TH700 auto.
The only difference to the Kit  compared to the V8 Kit is that the V8 Kit has Y frame plates sandwiched between the HR crossmember and the chassis rails.
This is where the short rail connections supplied bolt up to.
On the 6 cyl Kit the short rail connections bolt up the the original chassis Y frame.
In my opinion i would use the V8 Kit especially if you have a high HP 6 cyl and comes with a re-enforced HR crossmember.
Latter on you can change over to V8 running gear as your hunger for HP increases without having to "re-engineer" the car.

Regards Seb