Losing Charge

[RET]

There's no reason I can immediately think of (although not near a car to check) that the battery box can't be moved aft of it's original position with just a relocation of the bolt holes that hold the thing in place.

cheers
RET

[Ol_Girl_58]

Hey Guys,

It seems so long since this topic was started...Thanks for your replies. I'm still waiting for the local auto-electrician to book me in (seems he has a lot of customers in winter - or maybe he just doesn't like the nightmare that is a modified car's electrical system).

Anyway, the car hasn't moved since the last posting.

However, I am a little confused. Someone replied that welding cable should not be used in the car. However, on the weekend I went to a reputable speed shop and asked the guy running it (a former drag racer) who swears by welding cable and says it better than most. I'm confused?

Also: Just thought of this: My interior light is/has been disconnected. It does work when connected. Could this be the source of the power drain?

Regards,

Josh

[Pat]

i had the same problem with my fathers car
the battery is in the boot also, mounted in a battery box
the way it was explained to me the longer the leads the more charge you lose
you may also found that the cranking speed will speed up if leads are storter (for starting)
to fix the problem i picked up a 55amp alternater from the local wreackings and haven't had the same problem again.
hope this solves your problem works will if me

[Effie C]

However, I am a little confused. Someone replied that welding cable should not be used in the car. However, on the weekend I went to a reputable speed shop and asked the guy running it (a former drag racer) who swears by welding cable and says it better than most. I'm confused?

Also: Just thought of this: My interior light is/has been disconnected. It does work when connected. Could this be the source of the power drain?
Regards,

Josh

Josh
As to welding cable, we found as per previous reply that over time the wires develop a white powder within the rubber sheath and start  to get a high resistance (read voltage drop) along there length. This was from many years use in earthmoving gear landcruisers Holden etc in the mines. I could be wrong but most drag cars don’t do a lot of road miles and really don't get much use of the starter motor, like how often do you start the motor going down a quarter of a mile.
Any how you will find the correct battery cable your auto sparky will fit is much cheaper than the right size welding cable. But it is your car and your call.

Interior light on all the time will drain the battery overnight.
Good Luck
John M

[nicko]

i fitted a car alarm to my old FC and the flashing armed light for alarm would drain it enough to set off alarm in middle of the night,disconnected alarm after running around 3 times one night looking for thief ,replaced battery with new heavy duty battery and connected alarm again with no problems if i used car every day,if left for more than 4 days without starting car and alarm would go off again
reguards Nick

[Ol_Girl_58]

Hey guys.

Just wanted to share a note of thanks to those who shared their ideas.

Three long days at the auto electrician and the FC is now running beautifully  , and holding it's charge.  

It was a combination of a dud battery, a 'live' dead wire and as well as wires from the nitrous still being live (it's been disconnected , and rubbing on the bonnet hinge.

A new globe in the front left indicator bezel is staying put.

P.S. A bit if a 'learn as you go' story... I didn't know that if a globe is missing from the indicator, the dash indicator lights fowl as well.

P.P.S. Fitted quartz halogen headlights, another 'learn as you go'. Not as hard (or as simple) as it looks.  

Thanks once again.

Josh