bigger radiator

[oldgmh]

What other bigger holden radiators will fit into an FC that is running a red motor?  I don't mind doing a bit of cutting to make it fit, but what type should I get?

[Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius]

I'll soon be starting the same exercise myself.

I have an LC/J Torana Radiator, apparently the last of the XU1 cores or some crap like that. Anyway the radiator bloke said it is rare and I should hold on to it.
The height is roughly the same, but it is quite a bit wider. I have bought some 40mm angle iron that I will drill the mounting holes into. I then need to cut into the radiator panel, it roughly works out that I will be cutting into the strengthening ribs, hence the angle iron.
This diagram is a bit rough, but should explain what I am doing.

Panel-----  |_  Radiator goes here   _| -----Panel

I may even get to it this weekend, if so I'll put up some pics.

[oldgmh]

thanks stinky,

I will be interested to see how it fits.  It is the height that appears to be the problem.

[FC-V8]

Earlee
         I ran a 186 in my fc for years using the original radiator without any over heating problems. If you need a bigger radiator I think I have seen original looking ones that were about twice as big in the core. I think they were used if the car done a lot of towing. One of the guru's might be able to shed some light on this.
Glenn

[Lindsay58]

hi earlee   i have achev 327in my fc it is currently using a early statesman 5 litre radiator with twin thermos it seems to to the job with no probs it is a bit wider than norm with some cutting needed but looks ok though hope this helps   lindsay 58

[oldgmh]

thanks lindsay 58 and fcV8.  I will try a HQ radiator for size.  The standard one definately isn't big enough in brisbane heat.

[Fast_Eddie]

Earlee,

You could also try Aussie Desert Cooler. They are a radiator outfit in Victoria that do off the shelf radiators for red motor and V8 conversions into early Holdens. (As well as Rod Hadfield's "Final Objective" apparently)

I assume their radiators fit the standard opening, but you may have to check. They advertise in Australian Street Rodding, and their number is 03 9470 4449.

I'll be contacting them shortly to get one for my project, which is a Chev into FC conversion,

Regards

Edward

[Effie C]

Earlee
Check out the Qld club they have a few V8's, one I would look at is Ron Cooks(Ron hope you don't mind) he has used a landrover radiator fitted and it fits beautiful without cutting the top support (from memory).
John M

[Ed]

Im using a cut down Comm V8 radiator in mine.

Looks kind of like Glenn's.. see pics. except mine is tucked under the panel.

There is heaps of room to use almost anything..

Desert Cooler gets the thumbs up for no cutting, but is on the expensive side.

I think Jason and SGO have both used the V6 comm radiator in their conversions.

Have fun

Ed

[Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius]

Did some work on the radiator today, the angle iron plan worked out quite well. 4 cuts with a jigsaw took 12 odd cm off each side. Welded the angle in, dummied the radiator up, put the top support panel on. I could have just cut out the interfering metal, but I was feeling creative and have chopped up and rewelded so it looks factory(ish). One side is 1/2 done at least, when that is finished I'll take a picture to show the comparison.
The radiator could have sat another 40mm lower, but then there's problems with the filler cap. A gooseneck fitting would get around that, but I have spent enough on this part of the project already.
Apart from a touch of grinding and painting there is a 40 odd mm section at the bottom of the panels that need filling, some flat bar should do the trick.

[oldgmh]

thanks for the info guys, I should be able to work something out now.

Earlee

[streetneat]

I have found the perfect solution to radiator fittinf into FCs with red motors. My method is to use an eh radiator that has been reversed in its frame . the sides of the original  radiator hole has to be relieved about 1/2 " each side or basically take of the returne dedge  on either side. The bonnet lock panel is carefully welded to the rad support brace underneath and the rad support is relived of metal along the width of the new radiator. I use a brickies bolster on this new one peice support /lock panel and gently drift some extra hieght into the panel either side of where the new radiator will sit  The radiator is recored with a new core and a angled commodore filler neck will allow it to be filled as the radiator now hides under the new lock panel. the bottom of the tie rail needs a bit of heating and uniformly beating to accomodate the radiator . I will be doing this mod on the wifes Fc shortly and will take digital picies to illustrate the procedure further. The end result is a very factory appearence thats hard to beat for its good looks and the best bit is by using a HG Holden fan boss and a fibre reinforced black plastic flex fan  you can say good bye to overheating problems even with the most heavily worked six... I run this set up in all my FCs and would not hesitate in reccomending this mod for those who repower with red motors... Check out the pics of my FC Ute engine....Cheers streetneat

[streetneat]

 Here is another view of the lock panel.... Notice the deletion of bolts acroos its top now? also I finish everything with satin black  2pac to maintain the fctory look. To remove the radiator its a simple task of undoing the four mounting bolts for the radiator after you have undone the six bolts that hold the lock panel in... I use and reccomend a brass strainer in the top hose of the radiator that I get custom made to keep the radiator free of scale.  This means radiators will last a lot longer and so will your engine  the key to the cooling secrets lie with that ugly looking black plastic fan that moves atremendous amount of air and flattens out as the revs increase... this means it does not rob power as much as you think... cheers streetneat