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ardiesse
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« Reply #1 on: November 08, 2023, 03:56:43 PM » |
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By memory -
It's easiest to change to 3/16" brake pipes - the same as FB onwards. The hoses for front discs won't suit the FC's 1/4" brake pipes. Use the brake pipe distribution block from an FB or EK.
You need to replace the outrigger on the HR front crossmember with one from an FB or EK (FE-FC may work, but I don't know whether an FE-FC crossmember is the same height at the front). The holes in the outrigger for the front engine mount (if grey) may need re-drilling. Red motor engine mounts are your own problem.
You'll need to use an HD-HR rear axle, noting that HRs have 2-1/4" wide rear springs, while FCs have 2" wide rear springs. You will need to put 1/8" wide spacers on each side of your rear springs to suit the HR rear axle. Also, the rear brake hose (FB-HR) is only just not long enough for an HR rear axle. I hear that a certain model Ford brake hose is a bit longer than the Holden one.
Or, you can use an EJ-EH rear axle, noting that EJ and EH also have 2-1/4" wide rear springs. You will need to relocate the EJ-EH brake pipe bracket to the same position as the FC, and get new brake pipes for the rear axle.
The later model rear axle bump stops are on the rear axle, not the body. Remove your FC's rear axle bump stops.
Rear handbrake cables are a hassle. I'd suggest using an HD-HR rear handbrake cable, with the following warnings: Cut the rear handbrake cable mounting brackets out of an HD or HR and weld them to your FC's rear floors. The HR handbrake cable is a little too short, so you will need to make a couple of sheet metal strips and use an extra clevis pin to "bridge the gap" between the FC cable equaliser and lower handbrake lever. I hear that a conversion rear handbrake cable is available from Rare Spares.
The later model rear axle will require 9/16" bore wheel cylinders and shoes to suit the smaller diameter cylinders.
Remove the check valve from your brake master cylinder.
Use a VH40 brake booster, with new pipes from master cylinder to booster, and from booster to brake pipe distribution block. Install a T-fitting in the inlet manifold if you still have vacuum wipers.
When installing the HR front suspension, use all HR bolts, spacers and rubbers, except for the outrigger rubber, which is FE-EK. You will have to remove the battery and tray to gain access to the left front crossmember bolt.
I'd suggest re-using your original FC steering linkages, but I am probably alone in this. If you want to use HD-HR steering linkages, you will need the HD-HR pitman arm and idler arm plus support. The HR drag link will have minimal clearance to the sump.
The FC's front sway bar is usable with an HR front crossmember, but you may need to turn it upside-down for better alignment of the rubbers.
Get four HR wheels. FE-EH wheels will not fit. HD wheels are acceptable, but will give you 1/2" narrower track. Your FC wheel nuts will suit HD-HR wheels.
Persuading the authorities in your state to register the car after you've done the conversion is your responsibility. You may need dual circuit brakes and other safety equipment.
Rob
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