Jolls FC Ute Project

[Jolls]

The brake and clutch master cylinders and reservoirs were on my list to do today.

I was able to remove the pistons and they and the bores look to be in reasonable condition. May only require a hone. I was not so lucky with the tin reservoirs. I don't think either of them are re-usable.

You can get the full story here: https://forum.fefcholden.club/index.php?topic=28497.msg180213#msg180213

I played around with the fuel gauge too. I have continuity across the coils so I have to imagine that the coating across the coil windins has failed on one of the coild and there is a or number of short circuits. I'll see what I can track down to replace this bit.

Cheers n Beers
Jolls

[Jolls]

I have just finished wire my reverse lights, indicators and park lights on my FC ute. I left all the clear/white lenses in and used switch back led globes, indicators flash orange and reverse and park lights are white light. I did have to put a different flasher can that senses the load from the LEDs

I hve decided to take the low road and make life easier on those driving around me and go to orange LED indicators front and back and white parkers/reverse lights. I will modify the wiring to suit and incorporate and LED rated flasher can. That should be pretty straight forward to do.  I ordered four of these on eBay so just need to find a base to suit and modify it to fit into the bulb wells of the front and rear indicators/parkers.



When you did your conversion did you run into any problems? What base did you use? Did you have to modify it to fit?

Cheers n Beers
Craig

[fcute]

I used rare spares brake light light globe holders, front an rear. Only problem I had was getting orange/ white led globes that were short enough not to touch the lense on the rear.  Apart from that they are real cool especially the front as they are a very bright white so can be seen in the daytime and when the indicators goes of or on the white light kind of dims down then up and really easy to see. Also a decent light to reverse with which sheds a fair amount of light.

[Jolls]

I used rare spares brake light light globe holders, front an rear. Only problem I had was getting orange/ white led globes that were short enough not to touch the lense on the rear.  Apart from that they are real cool especially the front as they are a very bright white so can be seen in the daytime and when the indicators goes of or on the white light kind of dims down then up and really easy to see. Also a decent light to reverse with which sheds a fair amount of light.

Thanks Mate,

Appreciate the feedback - good to know that I'm on the right track. I will wait until the globes arrive and trust that I have selected the right ones. The bulb is 26mm deep with a 20mm cap - similar to a brake/tail light bulb so I expect it will fit. I think they are literally on a slow boat from Chine as delivery is not expected before Dec 13. The holders from Rare Spares are on the buy list (which is getting longer by the day). I am keen to have pretty much everything in place when I really crack into it so I can get a good run.

Cheers n Beers
Jolls

[Jolls]

The parts list for the build is starting to decrease.  I just purchased up a complete HR front end with proportioning valve,  2 inch lowered springs, 2 inch lowering blocks and two new HR rims. They have been sandblasted and undercoated already.

So - now that I have the disc brake front end is the booster a mandatory requirement or something I can get to down the track?

Cheers n Beers
Jolls

[Errol62]

With the stock master you really need a booster Craig. I'm not sure you want a proportioning valve. The standard HR setup is single circuit master to VH40 booster to discs front and smaller compatible wheel cylinders rear, which means changing rea housing and brakes to EJ HR.

Option 1 is HK HZ or other 1" dual circuit master, boost front circuit only using VH40 or smaller VH44 and retin stock rear unboosted on separate circuit.

Option 2 firewall mounted booster and dual circuit master with rear proportioning valve. Then you have to one the clutch master or else modify bonnet hinge.

Another option I have seen is smaller diameter master unboosted.

Easiest option with the grey is probably just swap the rear axle and brakes.

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[ardiesse]

I warned you about scope-creep . . .

The moment you change to an HR front suspension, you'll need to have an engineer certify the installation.  And I think dual circuit brakes become mandatory, and a collapsible steering column, and two-speed electric wipers, and a heater/demister.  It's not as easy now as it was in (say) the '80s.

Rob

[Jolls]

I warned you about scope-creep . . .

The moment you change to an HR front suspension, you'll need to have an engineer certify the installation.  And I think dual circuit brakes become mandatory, and a collapsible steering column, and two-speed electric wipers, and a heater/demister.  It's not as easy now as it was in (say) the '80s.

Haha,
I recall the warning - I didn't think that through too far - I can always sell it.
Last time I did this was in the very early 80s and I started by adding the HR front and rear end. Then I cut out and replaced the tunnel and added a 4 speed box a little later When the grey died I simply welded in some engine mounts threw in a 202 and took it down to the RTA? and had it inspected. The only inspection it had in its time was after the engine change and it had a few rego inspections in between.

I guess I am a little naive;  adding disc brakes is a bolt on safety upgrade. I did not expect the engineering etc unless I added a bigger donk. Then I expected all the additions plus seat belts.

The fella I purchased this off was running around with just the proportioning valve; that is what prompted my intial question. I know last time I did this I used a booster. In my mind I had thought through a plan of stock booster to VH44 to a proportioning valve to the brake setup using FC rear and HR front. Pretty sure that is the setup I had in the 80s. I guess if I have to change the diff as well I could go EH/ HR or LC/LJ and use the VH40 to keep it as close to original as I can.  I have just sourced the missing clutch parts, thanks to Clay, to keep it looking original in that area.

I will have a think about how I stage this - and if I want the PITA of having to do so. I can always add some paint and sell it - got it for a very good price.

[Errol62]

Good old SA, we don't need no injuneering here. Bureaucratic bullshit imo. As long as it is done to a "professional" standard, it is the only requirement here.

I would be tempted to flaunt the silly law if I could get away with it, meaning both bureaucratically and insurance wise, of course.

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[Errol62]

I've dug through my brake drawer, and I can supply you a brake master with a matching reservoir. I have a matching PBR one, which is a disc brake one supplied by Power Brakes SA, or I should have a drum brake one, which may be slightly crustier. Either way, I can give you two matching usable masters with matching early plastic reservoirs.


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[ardiesse]

Craig,

Your experience is exactly like mine.  I put HR front discs and rear axle, with VH40 booster, into the ex-family EK.  Come pink slip time, my father was full of gloomy prognostications.  The mechanic who inspected it did a brake test in the servo's forecourt, stood the car on its nose, got out, looked underneath and recognised the HR front suspension, wrote the ticket out and said, "best old Holden brakes I've ever had".

Rob

[Jolls]

With the stock master you really need a booster Craig. I'm not sure you want a proportioning valve. The standard HR setup is single circuit master to VH40 booster to discs front and smaller compatible wheel cylinders rear, which means changing rea housing and brakes to EJ HR.

Option 1 is HK HZ or other 1" dual circuit master, boost front circuit only using VH40 or smaller VH44 and retin stock rear unboosted on separate circuit.

Option 2 firewall mounted booster and dual circuit master with rear proportioning valve. Then you have to one the clutch master or else modify bonnet hinge.

Another option I have seen is smaller diameter master unboosted.

Easiest option with the grey is probably just swap the rear axle and brakes.

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Hi Errol62

Firstly thank you so much for the parts offer. I am all over it like whire on rice. I have been mulling over the options all afternoon. I'm going to run with the HR front end so the disc brake booster would be gold. I have been thinking about how to do this with a minimum of effort while maintaining "period originality". I am already throwing triple SUs and extractors on her and will have the cam reground, the head done and the bottom end refreshed and balanced and the flywheeel lightened. So the investment in being able to stop is pretty important.

I have thought through several options and am thinking about keeping the FC rear end but sleeving the cylinders down the the same as HR. Do you think that is achievable? Do you think istoo much effort and simply changing to HR/LJ drum to drum would be more cost effective?

Cheers n Beers
Jolls

[Errol62]

Sounds like an LC LJ diff would suit you. EJ to HR backing plates and drums and run zero offset magnums. Or EJ HR with custom offset. You will be lengthening the diff ratio unless you’re planning for the strip. Later brakes are wider and also less fiddly than early. Best of all there is ready and affordable parts availability. The same can’t be said for the early brakes.


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[Errol62]

Sent you a pm confirming what to send you Craig. Your brake thread seems to be corrupted.


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[Jolls]

Sent you a pm confirming what to send you Craig. Your brake thread seems to be corrupted.


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Nothing received - checked messages and email. Will keep an eye out and respond ASAP.

Cheers
Craig

[Jolls]

Hi Team,

Another piece of the puzzle has sort of fallen into place. I have been given an aftermarket VH44 booster so now I need to work out if/how I use this as it looks the goods. However. it is not the VH40 that came out the the HR - that would make life easy. I am mulling options over. I'm not sure all of them are acceptable; but, I'm pretty sure that they are workable:

• use the VH44 as a means to trade up to VH40 and run a full HR setup
• run the VH44 and boost the discs only - use the existing FC rears unboosted
• run the VH44 and boost the the lot - use the proportioning valve with the existing FC brakes

I'm keen to keep the FC rear end if I can - not wedded tothe idea though. If it neds to change - so be it.

[Errol62]

These reservoirs ok Craig?
I’ve been running stock HR setup with VH44. It’s not too bad until there is a load on board. I’m about to change to VH40, because I’ve got one on the shelf, and I’m sticking with stock single circuit master. Well for now anyway……


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[Jolls]

I’ve been running stock HR setup with VH44. It’s not too bad until there is a load on board. I’m about to change to VH40, because I’ve got one on the shelf, and I’m sticking with stock single circuit master. Well for now anyway……
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Thanks for the guidance. The old girl won't be carrying a load at all - maybe a bag or two and a few beers in an esky at most. I think I'll be fine with just the pair of us up front.

Cheers n Beers
Jolls

[Jolls]

Short update:

Last week - picked up a HR disc front end out of an FC complete with two rims that clear the calipers. Has been sand blasted and is in undercoat - will pull it down and get it ready to go in down the track. I have made a decision to get her on full NSW rego with the standard front end and then change over to the HR down the track. I don't want the short term hassle of dealing with engineering etc. HR front end has aftermarket springs lowered 2 inches, 2 inch lowering blocks and a proportioning valve. Old mate was running this setup on his FC off a VH44 and standard rear end with no issues (so he says). I will set it up the same and see how it goes - pretty sure that is the same setup I had on my Special in the 80s too.

Thanks to some members here I have picked up a spare generator (Lucas) and starter motor, a complete clutch and brake master cylinder set and some spare brushes for the Bosch generator.
The Bosh generator has had an overhaul (less the sealed bearing which is on order). The Bosch regulato has been checked and gets the thumbs up. The generator runs well as a motor so I expect we are in pretty good shape to generate power.

The motor turns over with the starter motor and feels pretty good. When I picked her up she had a reconditioners tag on her showing 100psi in each cylinder. I will build a test stand soon and get her running to what condition she is in.

Checked the front end - pretty loose - not sure if it is bearings or king pins. More work required there - I trust I just need to regrease and tighten things up to get her back up and on the road. Haven't got to the wheel cylinders yet - but full overhaul required. Will get onto the cylinders ASAP and get them cleaned up and will put them back together close to the end so they're not sitting around unused just wating to sieze up again.

SUs have been to a carby expert for a health check - in good shape and will get an ultrasonic bath over Christmas in exchange for a few beers and my company. (A mate that lives on a property around the corner runs a carby refurb business!)

Picked up a standard front bar - small dent and some flaking chrome but good enough to get me up and running. Hammered the dent out this afternoon - she should be fine for rechroming. Bashed out the dent and tear in one bumberette. Can't get it quite matched up so off to a mate of Son #2 to see if they can sort it in their shop. Once welded I trust we can get her rechromed and back on the old girl.

Sourced and AC bypass filter - I know but every little bit helps - and I reckon they look the coolest of the three options.

I have sourced orange and white LEDs for the reverse lights/indicators and parkers/indicators. Just need to order the correct bases from Rares. To go withh that we sourced a reverse switch and and indicator switch with stalk. Now have to find a base and LED rated can to make it all work.

On a whim we sourced a couple of hidden bluetooth 200W amplifiers. Plan is to mount it in place of the cigarette lighter and simply stream radio/tunes/map directions through the phone. Will hide a USB C charging port in the glove box.

I hope to pick up a heater from another member this weekend while in Sydney and am in discussion about demister vents with someone else. I trust that I will have this sorted over the weekend.

The fuel gauge has been elusive - either stupid money is required for a known working unit or people want dollars and postage for a unit and they can't tell me if it works or not. Risk on me! I have fond a mob that will bring mine back to life for $120 - so I expect I will head down that route and save it going to landfill.

I have partially repaired the broken tailgate bling - but need to find some heat sink type of material so the "solder" doesn't remelt and "run away" while I strengthen the

I only have the front engine mount and the chassis brackets for the rear one. I expect that the rear engine mounts and brackets and kicking around on the shed floor in place near Dubbo. I will post in the parts wanted section to see if I can find some. I also only have one guard spear (passenger side I think).

Over the last couple of weeks I have beenreading through the "accessory of the week" pages and have found some ideas that I will try to work on. Should be able to knock up a parcel shelf and a set of dual speakers for behind the speaker grille. Also need to find a jack/wheel brace etc - where  did they live in the ute?

Enough of an update for now

Cheers n Beers
Jolls

[Errol62]

Jack etc lives in the spare wheel compartment.

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