Only getting reverse gear

[Wookie 66]

Yes me again still working out some gremlins

No matter what I try the only gear I can get is reverse using the gear lever

I can get all the gears to work i think buy physically moving the gear box levers

It’s like the gear lever just won’t drop into any other gear no matter how many times I adjust the nuts on the end of the the arms

I’m now waiting to find out when my fun is suppose to start has not been any lately

Any suggestions?

[ipg]

have you got a good chiropractor?

[Wookie 66]

Yes but it doesn’t help he knows nothing about old Holden

[mcl1959]

Have you adjusted the honey pot down too tight. Gears won’t work properly if it is threaded right down to the bottom of the thread

[my8thholden]

Wookie , Your on the same road I have just been down ....I replaced the selector tube up the centre of the column .and then could only get first and reverse , could not get into second or third gear..You'll need the FE and FC shop manual..Given that your assembly is correct and no parts are incorrect or damaged ,as Ken said ,and I made an error as he suggests , first adjust bearing support as per fig. 9-10 on page 229 ...then follow fig. 7-11 and 7-10 on page 205 ..then do everything on page 204 ...then with gear box in neutral adjust the selector rod trunnion up or down the thread till it lines up with the centre hole in the rubber bush , you don't move the gearbox levers or selector levers to fit the trunnion you move the trunnion to fit the centre of the rubber bush ..good luck Vern .

[Wookie 66]

Ok I have to call it at this point before I do something rash
I’ve followed the book as recommended still can’t get the gear leave to work or change gears
I cant see we’re the problem is,

Anyone around Albion park or Shellharbour that would like to come and have a look
We are COVID free and mask friendly these days

Cheers

[Harv]

Maybe some questions to help the hunt:

a) Has the problem only just started, or have you never been able to get anything but reverse?
b) Did you change ANYTHING at all that coincided with the problem starting?
c) Is the car used routinely, rarely, or a project car that has never been on the road?
d) Have you made ALL the settings as per the FE/FC Workshop Manual below?





Cheers,
Harv

[my8thholden]

wookie ..when you move the gear lever back and forth thru neutral gate does the selector tube inside the column have the correct amount of travel ?
If not ,but all your assembly is fitted correctly ,then its likely something you cant see ,look at exploded diagram fig. 7-14 on page 207 , maybe something has happened to items 1 or 2 or 3 or 4 ..that will jam or restrict travel ,you cant see cause ther'e inside down bottom of tube/ column ,everything else in that diagram you can get a visual on , also figs 7-11 and 12 previous page ,can you tick those boxes ? ...Vern ..

[Wookie 66]

Thanks Vern

I’ll have another look at it on Friday the wagon has been a project for last 4 years I bought it without a motor or box and a rusted floor And I have never driven one so I’m not sure what the gear change is suppose to feels like.

Cheers

[Harv]

That makes it clearer. One more check for a project car - check the gearbox linkage rods are as per the dimensions below. You may have been given the rods off another vehicle:





As to how the gearshift should feel... anything from "sharp and notchy" all the way through to "like stirring a bowl of porridge". 

Cheers.
Harv

[Errol62]

Sharp and notchy dream on Harv 8 )


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[my8thholden]

One of my cohorts reckons back in the day in his FJ when he was de- accelerating down hill in second gear ,if he hit a bump ,and there were plenty ,it would drop into third gear on its own , a bush mechanics attempt at a part auto box down round Leeton way circa 1950's..Vern ..

[Wookie 66]

Hi Vern

Well that might be it I presumed they are all the same Seanad ute wagon are they different sizes ?

That is one thing I didn’t check tomorrow will busy day
Cheers

[mcl1959]

Yep they’re all the same.

Ken

[my8thholden]

In the workshop manual it usually points out the model varients.as Ken has advised the rods are all the same regardless of body shape. the rods can wear excessively at the gear box attachment end , gees it would have to be really bad to cause your problem ,most unlikely ...Vern

[weddo]

Wookie 66,
Check that the gear change rods are connected correctly at the gearbox end ie on the correct lever and the levers are in the correct position on the gear change shaft.

cheers Weddo

[Wookie 66]

Hi mate

Yes I believe they are fitter in the right spot but will double check

I recall replacing the seal on the gear box change lever had a bit of trouble getting it back in

Would this be an issue I need to check is it possible for this in the wrong setting

Other than that I still no idea on what’s wrong with it

Cheers

[ardiesse]

Trevor,

A couple of ideas for troubleshooting -

Under the car first:  Disconnect the linkages from the gearbox. Shift the gearbox into neutral using the shifter lever (sticks out the side of the gearbox).  It should now be possible to move the selector lever (comes out underneath the gearbox).  As you move the selector lever, you should see the shifter shaft (the other lever) move in and out.  If that's happening, try selecting each of reverse, first, second and third at the gearbox.  This is easier if the rear wheels are off the ground, and the handbrake's released.

If you can select all the gears, the gearbox is not at fault.

Bottom of steering column next:  Disconnect the linkages at the column and remove them, but label them.  The shifter rod is the one that moves when you move the gearstick up and down; the selector rod is the one that moves when you move the gearstick back and forth.

Grab onto the lower shifter lever.  This is the U-shaped one that disappears into the open space under the column.  Try to move it up and down.  (You can get first and reverse, so I'm expecting the lower shifter lever to move easily.)  Position it about halfway through its movement - the top face of the lever about horizontal.  Now find the lower selector lever.  This one is on a pivot, and has "fingers" which engage the lower shifter lever.  See whether you can move the lower selector lever.  There's a big spring inside the column, which you'll be fighting against here.  You should be able to move the lower selector lever about an inch, and when it moves, the entire lower shift lever should move back and forth along the column.  The movement should be free (except for the spring pressure).

Driver's seat last:  Move the gearstick up and down over its full range.  I'm expecting about 90 degrees of movement.  Check that the lower shift lever moves with the gearstick always. Position the gearstick about horizontally.  Now move the gearstick back towards the steering wheel until it stops, and release it.  There should be about three inches of movement; you should feel the effort of the return spring always, and the stick should never bind.  Check that the lower selector lever moves when you move the gearstick back and forth.

If the gearstick binds, or has limited movement, or you can hear scraping sounds, the problem's in the column somewhere.

Rob

[mcl1959]

Rob’s methodology is perfect. His last paragraph “the problems in the column somewhere”.  The problem will be that the tube running down the column is broken at the top.
Very common


Ken

[my8thholden]

Trevor ..I have just done this job on my car as stated on this forum ..if it is the ends of the saddle which wraps around the tube in the column that have broken off , it may just be one of them , which was my case ,and explains why I could only get first and revers ,because one lug was cracked but hanging on ,and the gear lever could still push against it , but the other was broken right off ,so the gear lever was pushing against nothing...so a few tips ..the tube can be removed pulling up inside the cab ..Before removing ,squirt a bit of WD40 down on the very end of shaft and make sure it is nice and smooth in seal area to just come out smoothly ..tie a piece of wire to the wires in column to pull them back again ..make sure you fish out all the broken bits ..the horn contact is dished , note that ...tuck a bit of cloth or paper in base of honey pot , and clean piece on floor , so as the tiny screws and horn contact don't disappear into the column or on floor ..we made a tool to hold the spring out of the way , it is bit of solid rod 1/2'' dia and we cut a small u-bolt down welded it to that steel rod that it tucks around the tube like a horse shoe . just put it at end of the spring and compressed spring along the tube and locked it there ,remove later , very tight area under car reaching up to fittings ,take particular note of the stepped locating washer where selector goes around tube and bolts on ,it can only fit one way ,but easy to offer it up wrong way round .. fig 7-11 page 205 is your first adjustment to make after you reassemble , I used a pair of circlip pliers to rotate the bearing mount in column ,fitting into the little holes in the body ..feel free to call me if you wish 0405 703 413 ...Vern .