Engine Freshen Up to this ........

[Rod]

Part 2 Continued from previous post.
Hi All,

I write this to note some finding I have had with the clutch saga.

Firstly, I will discuss the spigot bearing. When I put the spigot bearing in, I installed it up to where the taper at the opening of the crankshaft ended ie: straightened and ran parallel to the shaft. This was done so because this is where it was on an old shaft. In reading many posts here and over at the FB EK Forum, one issue that was presented for the clutch not disengaging was due to the spigot shaft not being driven in far enough and possibly mating with the taper on the end of the input shaft. With this in mind I did drive it in further when I had the motor out the second time (I think) and I had my reservations about doing so. To investigate this on this occasion, I took the clutch off the flywheel, reinstalled the gearbox to the engine and took off the upper inspection plate so I could investigate the bell housing to see the input shaft mating with the spigot bearing. The photos below aren’t great but does give some insight.

These photos show the spigot driven in a far as it can go into the crankshaft. Ie: past the taper point I spoke about above.



As you can see, the spigot bearing is past the contact surface of the end of the input shaft. While the spigot was new, I removed it and replaced it with another that was included in the Exedy kit. While I forgot to take a photo after doing so, I installed the spigot up to the end of the taper in the shaft and I can report that more of the mating surface with the shaft is now occurring and it is a significant distance from the taper on the input shaft ie: Binding won’t occur with the input shaft if the spigot is installed up the end of the taper in the crankshaft.

Now for the clutch fork. After replacing the fork and putting in the Exedy kit, the movement possible for adjustment of the fork is significant. The photo below shows this prior to installation, but I can report that there is a lot of thread now showing for potential adjustment (better than my ute). This could be just the fork or a combination of this with the new clutch kit.

[Rod]

Part 3 – Continued from previous post
The following photos are for reference purposes of the Exedy kit (GMK6021). The first photo is of the pressure plate which is identical to an OEM plate. The second picture compares the OEM clutch plate against the Exedy plate. Interestingly there is only one significant difference, and it is not the diameters of the plates. The only notable difference is the replacement has six springs rather than the four from the OEM. Interestingly the Exedy kit is advertised as being 200mm, not the 8 inch (203.2mm) of the OEM. While it was a little difficult to measure the plate as I don’t have a big enough caliper / vernier and the centre hub gets in the way, I can confidently say the plate measures about 204mm, definitely not 200mm.




Finally, to the throughout bearing. The throughout bearing of the Exedy is identical to the OEM bearing for all measurements in a longitudinal direction. Ie: total length but more importantly the distance between the fork contact surface and the face of the bearing. Now for the differences. The OEM and Clutch Industries have the same diameter of the face of the bearing, while the Exedy is smaller to these. I ran with the Exedy one even though the face was smaller.

Top – Exedy, Middle- Clutch Industries, Bottom – OEM


Left – Exedy, Middle- Clutch Industries, Right – OEM


I think this completes all my observations of my clutch experiences. Jolls I am with you. This forum is an absolute ripper. I know I have received much more than what I have been given. In part this thread is not about documenting my journey but about hopefully giving something to others in their journeys. I am not going to name names because I am surely going to miss someone but there are some significant people on this forum and over at the FB EK forum who give much more than they receive. They are the salt of the earth, and I am extremely grateful for what they have offered me and others. I am sure you have learnt who these members are.

It does sadden me somewhat that the traffic and contributions on this forum has been waning overtime. We can put this down to social media I feel. While I don’t do Facebook for personal reasons, I am able to see the posts in that medium. To me it is not a patch on what this forum is. At least there are years of wisdom that have been imparted and shared on this forum that can be searched into the future.

Can I pass on my sincere thanks to those that have assisted me on these clutch issues. I think I can now install the grill and bonnet and start to enjoy the ride even though there are a lot of little things to do. I will update this thread with what I did in getting the front seat serviceable.

Until then. Have a ripper.

Cheers Rod

[Rod]

Hi Clay,

Thanks for your response. I know I will have leaks in the long run, but I am surprised thus far. I was anticipating a rear main leak. Someone once said there is something wrong with a grey that doesn't leak from the rear main. Secondly, I was expecting one form the rear of the gearbox. So far so good. Thirdly, I thought a leak from the diff would have been the first spot as its had oil for a while now (yes, I have checked the box and diff for oil - it wouldn't be the first time I have missed something). I would be lying if I didn't have a leak or two. The sump plugs of the motor and gearbox had a slight leak. While I used new copper washers, I used Rob's technique of annealing the copper and now those leaks have ceased. Time will tell.

In my previous posts I should have mentioned more about the tappet cover. I did use a very good used one I had with the view, once I have given the motor a good run, I would adjust the tappets and put the new gasket in. While I had flattened the contact surface of the cover before installing, I don't think it was as flat as it should be at the rear. What I did was removed the gasket, placed the cover back on and carefully flattened the mating surface with a wood drift against the surface of the head. It did need flattening. However, I noted another possible cause for the leak. The head has been shaved and with this, the side plate sits above the flat surface of the head. I think this is preventing the cover to be torqued down as far as it should on the driver's side. I will know more once I put a new gasket on after adjusting the tappets. Thanks for the tip about gluing the gasket to the head. I don't think you can get neoprene gaskets for greys.

Thank you, Clay. This thread has just clicked over to the 8th page. I remember posting on your thread just as you were ticking over to 100 pages. Gee, you aren't far off 300 now. What a wealth of knowledge you have shared with so many people on your journey which is invaluable. I don't think I am going to get to 10 let alone 100 or 300. Thank you.

Have a ripper. Cheers Rod

[Errol62]

Your perseverance is bloody admirable Rod. I agree whole heartedly with your comments regarding the forum and also social media. However, I wouldn’t rate the sheer volume of my endless blathering too highly on the value of information contained. While there may be some gems in there, the amount of sifting required to obtain them detracts significantly from their value. None the less I hope they are entertaining.

Keep on posting mate. Let’s keep this forum thing alive.


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[Rod]

As the title to this thread says: Engine Freshen Up to this........"



and this



and this




I got wheel alignment done today after I did my best in doing so before taking her in. In driving her beforehand I felt she drove better than she did before the refresh. I said to "old mate" I would be interested how far off I was. Before he any took any measurements or adjustments, he said it won't be far off. I asked him how he came to that conclusion. He said as soon as he pulled the pins out of the turn plates, he knew it was close as they came out easy. Apparently if adjustments are needed the pins are tight in the turn plates. In the end he had to only adjust the toe slightly. A delight to drive even in the hurricane winds that we were having today!

This thread won't be the end of the refresh. I have all these little jobs to do now - quarter vent rubbers, bailey channels, door strips, door trims back on, strip / clean of the underfloor and seal and on and on. Part of me is now regretting getting her to driving stage again because these little jobs more than like will get put off. Oh, I forgot an exhaust leak which I was sure was at the tailpipe join but maybe not. That is a priority even though its not significant. I've done tappets last weekend, but I have one or two still with a tick.

Anyway, enough of my rambling.

Have a ripper. Cheers Rod

[Errol62]

👍👍👍


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[Jolls]

Great result and even better to see another one back on the road.