Found Object

[Errol62]

That’s the way. I’ve used dymark rust converter on the panel van A pillar bottoms, plenum etc.


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[Brett027]

I've used it too. However, I had real problems getting anything (acrylic lacquer, underbody spray on goop and seam sealer) to bond to it. I now only use it on things that are not going to require any further cover. It could have been my preparation, not sure.

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[ardiesse]

A point of clarification -

I got the name wrong.  It's called 'Rust Reformer'.  My bad.  Luther Calvin Zwingli.  Luther Calvin Zwingli.
I'll mainly use it for the interior surfaces of enclosed sections, and I'll see how it goes on the underbody when I need to paint over welds.

And also:  I have a Rare Spares FE-EK front subframe tie member surplus to requirements.  Anybody interested?

Rob

[Brett027]

Yes,  Rust Reformer- matt black is the stuff I was referring to.

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[Errol62]

Like rob, I mainly used it in box sections I couldn’t mechanically remove rust from and painted over with zinc rich primer while still tacky. Seemed to stick ok.


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[Brett027]

Yeah its a great paint, sticks well and goes on easy and finishes evenly. Where I ran into trouble was trying to go over it with something else. It was dry when I attempted over coats, so it might be like POR15 and must be overcoated when tacky.

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[ardiesse]

This is an exercise in working out how to do the job as I go along . . .
The "triple junction" near the idler arm support is quite rusty:



When fixing the "dumb-iron" I could see all the way through from behind the triple junction to the front tie member.  The top part of the main subframe rail has rusted away, leaving a void.  Not good.  The first step is to guess how much I need to cut away in order to fix the main rail, then make a paper pattern:



And it always takes mental effort to make the first cut on a repair I haven't attempted before.  But after a couple of cuts, some hacksaw work, and a lot of grinding, I have an idea of what has to be grafted back into place.



Fortunately, the repair to the main rail isn't a complex shape to make, and it'll all be hidden; and, "it's only a ratty".  The repairs have to be solid.  They don't have to be pretty.

Rob

[camxsmith]

Great work on the frame, I have the same work to perform on mine when I get up to there. 

[my8thholden]

Rob..What metal and thickness are you using to " patch" your triple junction ?

[ardiesse]

Vern,

For the horizontal box section: 1.6 mm cold-rolled mild steel; for the diagonal member that comes down from the A-pillar, 1 mm mild steel (an old FJ front door skin).

Rob

[ardiesse]

After cutting a couple more sections away so I could get access with the grinder and welder, here's what appeared:



I had to cut out and graft in new pieces on the side of the box-section (not too hard once the other rotten bits are removed), and then make a new top . . .



1.6 is a lot more forgiving to weld than stretched 1.0 . . .

Now it's time to put the other patches in.

Rob

[camxsmith]

nice one... looks better already

[ardiesse]

. . . but I look at your cowl/inner sill repairs and floor pan replacements and think, "that joy awaits . . . "

Rob

[Errol62]

Keep it up Rob. Great work.


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[ardiesse]

A little "w.f.h." to finish the working week off:



I re-used the section I cut out of the diagonal member (even metal-glued a few pinholes up); but the remaining piece I'll need to fabricate from the paper pattern.

Rob

[ardiesse]

Somewhat time-consuming to fabricate the repair section . . .  but it's done.



Brief interruption in the late afternoon to unseize the pinion on a Mitsubishi starter motor for a Volvo Penta marine engine.  Salt air and humidity are no friend of electrical machinery.

Rob

[Errol62]

Nice work rob 👍


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[camxsmith]

Nice work Rob that looks great

[ardiesse]

The diagonal member on the driver's side needed attention too.  It had rotted out behind and above where the steering box bolts on, but unlike the passenger's side, the cancer ate its way in from the outside.  When I sliced off the most diseased bit, this is what it looked like behind:



The box member was intact and rust-free inside (bonus!).  But the skirt inside the diagonal member was quite pockmarked once I chipped all the scale off.  I wondered if I'd be quicker to cut out and replace, but I started welding the craters up, and it came good.  I did a couple of postage-stamp repairs on the bigger holes in the skirt.  The section I cut off was fairly easy to fabricate, as it only had the one fold.  And so -



And the sun hadn't even gone down.

There are a few more small rust holes in the RH subframe skirt to colour in, and then I can start work replacing the legs.

Rob

[ardiesse]

Not much to report that's photo-worthy today.  I welded up lots of rust holes in the subframe skirts.

Rob