Whealey FC long roof

[hsv-001]

Great to see you are still doing a little bit on the old girl . I know what its like with a project in the shed and a house being built . But I find most of the work is planned in my mind well before I get around to doing it . Just letting you know I'm still keeping an eye on your progress . Cheers Haydn

[Luke Healey]

Well out of necessity i am starting the VS brake upgrade. Wanted to bleed the HR brakes and get it mobile for the move but the old bleed nippes did not want to play the game. Then went to replace the caliper but the hoses are stuck. After a few other issues i bit the bullet and started to get the last few parts together for the commodore upgrade.

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[hsv-001]

Been a while ,but does that mean you go to the drum brake stubs with calliper adaptors and widen your track still further? Can you get blank rotors and stay with the 5x108 pattern or do you stay VS and shortened commo diff ? Sorry I haven't read your build recently ,but sometimes when over shortening the commodore diff you can get in trouble with your handbrake cable mounts . Your getting to the home straight now .Cheers Haydn

[Luke Healey]

Was going to shorten commo vs diff as short as i can fit it in using disks and still meet track requirments.
The track on the front issue has been spinning around in my head for days. I am happy to go to commodore stud pattern as i plan to run 17/18" custom made wheels.
Options are.

VN disks VS calipers. Uknown track change. Unless someone here knows?

Hoppers disks. 32mm track change, any stud pattern dual piston calipers.

UPC ebay disks. 16mm track change, any stud pattern dual piston calipers.

Track of the brakes is main concern as the less track i add the deeper the wheels can be.

Cheers

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[FireKraka]

Hi Whealey
Mate my advise know the offset of your wheels before you narrow the diff, I made the mistake of having the diff for my sedan narrowed to suit the original width if the FC diff and then had to try to find rims with the right offset to get them under the guards.

With my EK ute that I'm doing at the moment I knew which rims I wanted to use and narrowed the diff to suit.

Place the rims central under the guard in the back and measure from inside of rim hub face to rim hub face this gives you the width from axle flange to axle flange and easy to figure out how much to cut off the diff then and remember you need a short and long axle to keep the diff pinion in the centre of the tunnel.

Pete Mallaby on here makes great spring hangers.

I used VP calipers and rotors on HR drum brake stubs with adapter plates on the UTE and the wheel track is the same as the back so I dont believe it is any different than original. 

I have some photos and drawings of measurements somewhere if you are interested mate.

Regards
Neil

[Luke Healey]

Will be getting wheels first and doing the diff that way from your previous advice.

I would be interested in those measurements too that would be great

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[FireKraka]

Sorry if I repeated myself mate 

[hsv-001]

Yes good advice from Neil . The Commodore hubs and rotors will widen your track but these days rims with a wider outward offset are getting rarer as strut front ends tend to suffer under the load ,so most of the aftermarket rims are widened inward . This should bring your track back in [hopefully close to original  ] .Larger diameter rims will clear the steering arms and callipers nicely. It would be great if you could find someone on this forum with rims close to the offset you want and already under an FC . Then you could measure how much the rear housing needs shortening . You should then measure and check if the same offset will work under the frontend .  Sounds simple but I have seen so many people get it so wrong . Cheers Haydn

[FireKraka]

Haydn is right when he is talking about offset Whealey you will need to run at least 15" rims to clear the steering arms even with the 16"s I am running they are close because of the offset.
I am running commodore rims and as Hadyn said they bring the track back in only thing I have found and I'm sure it was mentioned by somebody else was that when on full lock the caliper will touch the top shock tower at the front, at the front because your caliper will be at the front as you have a rear mounted rack.

Just get the angle grinder out and remove some of the lip of the tower I think it was about 30mm.

Just found my rough drawing when I did my ute diff; sorry it is so rough mate hope it makes sense.
The second drawing I got from one of the forums can't remember if it was on here or the FB/EK one.





Like what you've done with the steering too.

Regards
Neil

[Luke Healey]

Always hated how big the steel booster was and the angle on the vs master cylinder.

So here's what i did.
VS plastic Booster
VS master
VT reservoir to reduce angle on reservoir. had to tap a new hole in the master for it and elongated the hole in the reservoir.
Custom mouning bracket.
Also cut bigger hole in firewall to get it closer to the firewall and to correct attach to pedal.

Now to install brakes and plumb....

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[FireKraka]

Looking good mate keep at it.

Regards
Neil

[Luke Healey]

Put rod hadfield 2in drop in. She is looking hot. VR caliper VN V8 disk. All went together with caliper on rear. No modification. The 2in drop in the axle gave clerance of the steering arm to enabel me to run caliper on rear and run commodore flex hose

Issue. Steering arm fowling on tyre. I think i have HR arms. Had to stack washers in behind. Any recommendations?

Also have nearly no steering before hitting outer guard. Will be running custom 15x5 to fix this

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[Errol62]

Whealy
Inevitable that your tyres will hit the guard. You can roll them. I see so many renderings of super low cars with big wheels an wonder how they can practically steer. You will have to work out a compromise between looks handling and practicality you can live with. Certainly winning in the looks department atm.
Cheers
Clay


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[Luke Healey]

I guess more what i am asking it those out there running Commodore brakes, What wheels and tyres are you running Offset and width?
and is there anyone running a low car with Commodore Disks.
I have the commodore drop axles now so i have to make it work.
I know Ness Pedro and some others have similar setups but is is hard to find all the details i need through searching, also alot of the older photos don't even work
I am very happy with the clearance as far as brakes and the control arms.
If i have to i may put in taller springs to just clear.
I will be getting custom steel wheels made just need to work out sizing.

Maybe you are right Clay. I may be asking too much and should not have increased the track so much

[NES304]

I guess more what i am asking it those out there running Commodore brakes, What wheels and tyres are you running Offset and width?
and is there anyone running a low car with Commodore Disks.
I have the commodore drop axles now so i have to make it work.
I know Ness Pedro and some others have similar setups but is is hard to find all the details.......

Hey Whealey! My 304 is heavy but only have heavy duty standard height HR springs with 16” rims (205/50/R16) and have no dramas full lock until the caliper touches (which is max turn almost anyway). Can’t remember the offset but they’re not exactly deep dish.


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[FireKraka]

Hi Whealey
Mate what springs are you running? I had to go back to standard HR springs as NES said.
Your tyre profile is also too high they look like 60s or 65s come down to 50 again as NES said and I believe the offset of those rims is not enough maybe you could go to a tyre and wheel place and find out/ask what the offset of some different mag wheels are.
Are those rims 16 or 15?
I will measure the rims that I am using if you like and post it.
Neil

[Luke Healey]

Thanks Nes and Neil,

I am unsure of the spring size, I am guessing that they are lows. may have to go standards or even a lift to highs

Any info on measured heights of springs when removed? I will ask some local guys (Shoalhaven if any on here can help) for a lend of some HR springs if I can to do some comparison fits.

Rims are 15x6s may even go to 15x5s as i would like to keep this car on the 100mm limit and be able to clear. Tyres are standard commo tyres so they are pretty big at 205 65 15, looking to run a 1.5 to 2 inch smaller tyre. will defiantly need a bigger spring as it already is sitting at 100mm with these tyres.

oh and anyone got some HQ power steering arms they want to move on?

Luke

[FireKraka]

Mate I originally had lowered springs with Hz WB stub axles which already give you a 20mm drop when I fitted the CRS drop spindles (50 or 60mm drop) and my 185 x 60 x 7 tyres I was touching and under the 100mm requirements, changed the springs to standard HR springs and was right on the 100mm and just cleared the guards with full lock.
Remember that the profile of your tyre ie the 50, 60 or say 65 is the percentage of the width of your tyre so for instance if you had a 185 x 50 tyre the side wall height is 92.5mm I think (that's the way it has been explained to me). 
I run standard HR steering arms the HR arms are slightly shorter I think so if you increase the length ie say HQ you may compound the closeness to the tyre.
I'm sure someone else can confirm this.
Neil

[hsv-001]

Neil is correct with that tyre profile it is wall height % of width . But rim width is also a factor .

[Luke Healey]

Thanks neil. Am asking around for swaps on my low springs.

Are your hr arms spaced out at all?

Been using the tyre calculator to get it down to the mm
All this info is very helpful

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