NES304
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« Reply #40 on: January 19, 2017, 09:13:35 PM » |
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You mean without?
I used trimmed HR drum stub axle with Pete Mallaby caliber adapters.
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Luke Healey
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« Reply #41 on: January 20, 2017, 02:01:08 PM » |
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Not sure what you mean by 'without' nes. Will look into the calliper adapter
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mcl1959
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« Reply #42 on: January 20, 2017, 02:32:24 PM » |
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From memory the drop spindles come with three options for caliper fitting. HR / Torana calipers HK to HZ calipers Early Commodore (VB to VS) You should be able to mount the VS brakes straight onto the drop spindle.
Drop spindles have their pros and cons, you may consider that you want to go back to a standard height spindle which is when you would need to consider caliper adapters
Steering arm would depend on your rack mount to a certain degree, but generally the short (power steer) HQ steering arms are a good starting point.
Ken
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mcl1959
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« Reply #43 on: January 20, 2017, 02:35:14 PM » |
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I think you will find that the spindle on the VS wiper motor is too short. Earlier Commodore motors have a longer spindle shaft.
Ken
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FireKraka
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« Reply #44 on: January 20, 2017, 06:00:37 PM » |
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Hi Whealey Mate I have done both regarding spindles, my FC sedan has drop CRS spindles and Ken is right they have a couple of drillings, FC has HZ WB rotors and Girlock aluminium calipers, originally I used the HZ WB stub axles they fit straight in and drop the front end 25mm, drop spindles that I have drop it 60mm.
On the FB EK ute I am currently doing I am using HR drum brake stubs as NES said with adapter plates, VP rotors and calipers, the adapter plates that I have used have an additional spacer at the bolt holes because the rotor has a slightly different offset and the spacer positions the caliper in the right place on the rotor.
If your rack is a V6 conversions one like I have said before your steering arms may be ok to use again just watch you rim offset.
HR drum brake stubs are a lot cheaper than the drop spindles mate when I bought mine from CRS (it was a long time ago) I think they cost me $400 now I think they are $800 if you do some digging you should be able to pick up HR drum ones for a couple of hundred and don't get sucked into the over priced ones on ebay. Have a good look at the bearing race area on the stubs before you but and make sure they are not fragged mate.
Hope I'm not being confusing again
Regards Neil H
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Ol_Girl_58
tas-club
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Model: FC
Posts: 945
getting there...
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« Reply #45 on: January 20, 2017, 10:32:01 PM » |
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HR drum brake stubs are a lot cheaper than the drop spindles mate when I bought mine from CRS (it was a long time ago) I think they cost me $400 now I think they are $800 if you do some digging you should be able to pick up HR drum ones for a couple of hundred and don't get sucked into the over priced ones on ebay.
Neil's on the money; I bought a set of drop spindles from CRS/Waddingtons a few years ago and they were a touch over $800. They came with engineering docs too. I run a HR disc front, CRS spindles, HQ power steer arms, Torana front mount rack (Rod's Racks), Commodore disc brakes (290mm from memory) with Falcon PCD front and rear. Steers and stops well
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Luke Healey
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« Reply #46 on: January 21, 2017, 05:24:25 PM » |
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So I have stripped the VR. Had 8 other guys on it today buying other parts, it was funny to see. I am still confused about some of the finer details to set up the Vr brakes. For now have the callipers, disks, peddle and booster/master. Will I need anything else of the car like hubs or shrouds? I understand the settups for stubs, spindles, rotors and disks. Now would like the hubs explained. Will run commodore wheels. Maby if I could get a pm with someones number for a chat this may be a better option. For now will get into the column and the wipers. Plan is to combine vr fc ek and lj torana column to produce the column I am after. Sent from my D6653 using Tapatalk
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FireKraka
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« Reply #47 on: January 21, 2017, 06:19:37 PM » |
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Mate I'm running VS SS commodore rims on my ute project along with the brakes etc.
When you narrow the diff you need to narrow it to the rims you want to run as the offset of the rim is what determines the width of the diff, with my FC I had the diff narrowed by somebody else and at the time did not understand this so had the diff narrowed to the original FC width so I then had to buy rims to suit the width/offset.
With your diff you want to retain the brake backing plates etc. just as it is standard but I don't run the backing plates on the front end.
On the FC sedan I have used the standard commodore master and booster, with a couple of little mods the mounting bracket it bolted up to the fire wall with out any mods to the rod and as NES said earlier my engineer like the commonality of brake system components, the commodore booster clears the bonnet hinge in the FC but not in the FB/EK so I have to find something else for it.
With the FB/EK ute I had decided that I wanted to run commodore rims which have a totally different offset the early holden.
The rims for the ute are 16 x 7
Hope it helps mate, I'm currently in Sydney on a job for the Navy but only have Sundays off. Regards Neil H
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mcl1959
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« Reply #48 on: January 21, 2017, 09:55:12 PM » |
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I forgot the slip off rotor started at VR. All earlier Commodores had the hub / rotor combined. I was wrong when I said earlier that you could fit up to VS. The dropped stubs will accomodate up to VP with the combined hub and rotor. You will need a hub similar to what Hoppers Stoppers supply for their kits to install the rotor on.
Ken
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Luke Healey
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« Reply #49 on: January 22, 2017, 08:02:59 AM » |
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Thanks everyone. Mocked up the column last night. . I think for now I might be best for me to stick with the hr brakes and tackle the upgrade at a later stage. Has anyone successfully run hr disk drum set up with a commodore booster/master (I have vr). I also have a hq booster/master. Can you over boost? Sent from my D6653 using Tapatalk
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JB
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« Reply #50 on: January 22, 2017, 04:33:17 PM » |
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If you use VT brake pedal set up it will bolt to the back of the booster as well as the accelerator pedal. Then just weld a little bit of the FC pedal assemble to bolt to the dash. It isn't that difficult to do.
Cheers JB
Have a look through 365 weeks in completed cars if you would like to see what I did.
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Phone +64 223509263
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mcl1959
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« Reply #51 on: January 22, 2017, 05:44:35 PM » |
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The problem with VR master is that it is not 1 inch bore which means it is not really compatible with HR brakes. Brake pedal would be very sensitive. I think VR bore is 13/16 ??
Ken
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Luke Healey
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« Reply #52 on: January 22, 2017, 07:44:07 PM » |
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The problem with VR master is that it is not 1 inch bore which means it is not really compatible with HR brakes. Brake pedal would be very sensitive. I think VR bore is 13/16 ??
Ken
Ken I also have a hq booster and master. They are 1 inch aren't they. Sent from my D6653 using Tapatalk
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Luke Healey
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« Reply #53 on: January 22, 2017, 09:49:06 PM » |
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Hey guys. So what hub are you running on the hr drum front vs conversion. I saw CRS make one.
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Luke Healey
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« Reply #54 on: January 22, 2017, 10:05:35 PM » |
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Will hk to hg drum front spindles work for commodore brakes. Got a bloke down the road with a lot of hk to hg parts
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Luke Healey
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« Reply #56 on: January 23, 2017, 09:15:41 AM » |
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Thanks fcrb26,
I do want the bigger brakes but as you said I find the concept daunting. So if I went vn rotors would I then need vn callipers? Thank you for the pictures that help allot. Have been reading builds over and over and am starting to get it.
Cheers
Luke
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NES304
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« Reply #57 on: January 23, 2017, 12:02:24 PM » |
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VR calipers are identical to VN V8 calipers. So you won't need another set- however make sure you buy VN V8 rotors and not V6 as they are smaller in diameter
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Luke Healey
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« Reply #58 on: January 23, 2017, 02:10:55 PM » |
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Thanks NES. will hunt down some drum spindles.
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mcl1959
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« Reply #59 on: January 23, 2017, 04:47:55 PM » |
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Yep, HQ master is 1 inch
Ken
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