NES304
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« Reply #20 on: December 22, 2016, 08:36:53 PM » |
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If anyone can point me in the direction of some decent posts that can help me with the mods I am looking at doing including suggested cheaper or better options that would be highly appreciated
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There are heaps in the members build build section. Have a look through there. Mine has HR front with a 5L V8 VH rear mount rack and a column shift (EK top, HT auto mid and lower and commodore unis) LSD shortened from VS running commodore stud pattern. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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FireKraka
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« Reply #21 on: December 23, 2016, 12:42:13 PM » |
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Hi Whealey; I just read your build post after commenting on your question re IFS's
I have done a couple of rack and pinion HR front end conversions and find them really good and no need for power steering I have used the V6 Conversion racks (they have some problems as do most) and the photos you show looks to me like it is one of his modified VB racks.
I agree with Hayden and NES if you rebuild the front end etc. you will end up with a good workable front end without having to outlay the big dollars, it all comes down to where you are intending to go I do V6 engine conversions because I like them and the rack setup works for me, NES has done the V8 and his gear is working fine but others have gone for various IFS front ends and they also seem ok (again some have had spring/shock rating issues).
As others have said it looks like you have a really solid basis for a good car maybe it just needs a good overhaul for you to enjoy it for a while until you decide to go all out.
Hope I haven't been confusing good luck with the car.
Regards Neil H
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Luke Healey
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« Reply #22 on: December 23, 2016, 03:12:24 PM » |
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Neil, Not confusing at all. Very helpful indeed. Just didn't want to spend time and money on the hr front end to not like it at the end of it all. But after further conversations with others and hearing from the experiences on here I too believe a rebuild is the best option. To be honest I think the hardest thing for me at the moment is sorting out the column . So many options available just need to pick a donor column. The steering was by far the most noticeable issue when driving. It felt dangerous. Haydn, the trimatic with shuddering in reverse also takes about 5 seconds to find reverse. After talking to a gearbox builder he believes it is the box. Hopefully he is not just trying to take my money. Also does anyone have an idea why this mod is on the fire wall. Not the pipes. Sent from my D6653 using Tapatalk
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FireKraka
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« Reply #23 on: December 23, 2016, 04:19:03 PM » |
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Hey Whealey When I build I try to build on a budget and this means using everything I can from the donor car, on my FB EK ute that I am building at the moment I am going to use a VT column using the breakaway tabs etc. that will make it compliant it also allows me to use the controls for the wipers up on the column as I'll being using commodore gauges; these columns are fairly short as well bring the wheel closer to the dash and not in your face and I shouldn't have any trouble with universals.
When I did the steering on my FC Sedan I used a Flaming River Steering column, universals and D bar and have had no issues even though my angle is quite steep.
Anyway as you say there are many columns to choose from.
I am probably wrong but maybe the mod on the fire wall was to allow for triple SU's I have seen similar mods done to allow for the rear carbie to fit with some of the red engine manifolds.
Again good luck mate and I think if you rebuild the front end and sort column out you will find a lot better driving.
Regards Neil H
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JOX515
vic-club
Senior Member
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Model: FC
Posts: 745
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« Reply #24 on: December 23, 2016, 05:05:21 PM » |
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Agree with Neil - it looks like a mod to squeeze the rear carby in on a triple set up....
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Ol_Girl_58
tas-club
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Model: FC
Posts: 945
getting there...
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« Reply #25 on: December 24, 2016, 10:10:41 AM » |
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Agree with Neil - it looks like a mod to squeeze the rear carby in on a triple set up....
I'd say you're correct too; I used a cake tin to allow space for webers to fit, then years later replaced the cake tin with a slice of Torana floor pan to tidy the engine bay up.
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Crumpsnr
Senior Member
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Model: FC
Posts: 286
Shellharbour NSW
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« Reply #26 on: December 25, 2016, 01:27:05 AM » |
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Hi Whealey,
Nice wagon. I'm envious. Where on south Coast are you? Saw a mention of Batemans Bay but not in one of your posts. May have missed where you said your location. Up late waiting for excited daughter to drop off before playing Santa. I'm near Shellharbour.
Saw Haydn's post re collapsible column needed for larger than 186. I'm doing an FC sedan with 186 and the mail I'm getting is that I need collapsible. Hope Haydn's right!
Regards,
Martyn
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NIFFTY
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« Reply #27 on: December 25, 2016, 10:57:11 AM » |
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Hi Martyn I live in Berry and went through a lot of this building a wagon if I can be of help phone me on 44642631 Ta Neville
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Luke Healey
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« Reply #28 on: December 25, 2016, 01:19:57 PM » |
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I live in Nowra. Close to you Neville. Martin. You will need collapsible due to the 20% capacity rule in adr
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Luke Healey
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« Reply #29 on: December 26, 2016, 06:52:27 PM » |
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Hope you all had a great Christmas. I blew a head gasket in my Subaru so that will slow down the project.
Anyway on a more interesting note
Haydn. You mentioned running a on the wall booster. Have already bought a later model dual circuit master/booster.
Everyone, I have hr disk front and drum rear. Should I dual boost or just boost front. Don't want to lock up the rear so was considering only boosting front.
Have a happy new year
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mcl1959
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« Reply #30 on: December 26, 2016, 07:08:37 PM » |
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That's the beauty of having a mastervac, it boosts both front and rear. In my FE I used a UC mastervac with the matching front discs and rear drums. This allowed the standard proportioning valve to be used so that boost is correct between front and rear. The UC is a similarly sized car to the FE so no problems with compatibility. You can mix and match front and rear systems by getting an adjustable proportioning valve and then setting the balance by careful trial and error. As you say you don't want to lock the rears, but you do want the rear brakes to contribute to the braking effort. Your mastervac bore size should ideally be the same diameter as the master cylinder on the car that your front brakes came from. The other thing you should try to keep the same is the pedal ratio. That is, the ratio of pivot to pad over pivot to push rod should be similar to the car your mastervac came from.
Ken
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Luke Healey
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« Reply #31 on: January 03, 2017, 03:11:52 PM » |
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HAPPY NEW YEAR. have removed original brake master and dismantled HQ master and booster will make a bracket to fit the master to the firewall then boost the front only through the remote booster. Have moved gauges to under radio bracket and am looking into replacing the Under dash a/c with a combo heat and cool system, Maby a hurricane (in pic) or similar (any suggestions?). Dismantled fuel gauge and repaired it. "I think" Bought and installed bonnet vent handle. Need 2 speed wipers. Can anyone tell me what I have here? Think I will do the vl mod. Now of to Summernats! Cheers Luke Sent from my D6653 using Tapatalk
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mcl1959
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« Reply #32 on: January 03, 2017, 04:09:49 PM » |
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You have an EK single speed wiper motor
Ken
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hsv-001
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« Reply #33 on: January 04, 2017, 12:52:38 PM » |
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geebeefc
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« Reply #34 on: January 05, 2017, 10:24:21 PM » |
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Hi, Re the shudder and delay into reverse with the Trimatic, probably the reverse clutch pack will have the fibre facings of the plate de-laminating. This was a common fault with Trimatic. Usually there will be a pile of clutch facing in the auto sump with a lot in the filter blocking the intake of fluid. If so, will require a dismantle and repair involving a serious clean out and new clutch packs. Glenn
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Luke Healey
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« Reply #35 on: January 18, 2017, 04:31:56 PM » |
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Have picked up a vs and plan to use allot of it in the fc. Not doing a v6 conversion but would like to use the diff and brakes to future proof for more power at a later date. Have read the posts in the build by Nes and was wondering if there are any other builds using vs or similar running gear. Will I run into much trouble? Mainly bought it for the wiper gear but was inspired by other builds
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Old_Mt_Isa_Boy
qld-club
Senior Member
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Model: FC
Posts: 953
My Ute
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« Reply #36 on: January 18, 2017, 08:21:47 PM » |
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NES304
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« Reply #37 on: January 18, 2017, 08:22:52 PM » |
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Make sure the brakes match the booster and master
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Luke Healey
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« Reply #38 on: January 18, 2017, 08:45:46 PM » |
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Thanks Wayne Nes will be all from the one car
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Luke Healey
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« Reply #39 on: January 19, 2017, 02:45:09 PM » |
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So I have a vs diff now and a second one available for sale locally. The way I understand it I need two diffs then I get the two short shafts and get one cut down even shorter. Then transfer/make parts to fit to leaf springs. Will be running vs brakes. In very basic terms is this correct.
For the front end I need drop spindles to support the vs Hub and brakes, front mount the callipers and adjust to suit. Will I need new steering arm
Then install brake booster and master and other associated parts and like magic your done.
Sorry for all the questions but would be lost with this forum. Only hope I can pass on the knowledge I gain from you all to the next generation
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