Holley to Stock Accelerator Pedal

[Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius]

I have been unable to get a Commodore pedal to sit in the right position and work correctly, mainly due to a firewall mounted brake booster. So I have purchased a repro pedal from Rares and wanted to see what others have done before I jump in, I dare say the booster will prevent me running any of the original linkages to the firewall so I am most likely stuck with a carb-to-pedal setup.

[freddyc]

I used a vr commodore pedal assembly and welded a 10 packer to the back to clear the pedal assembly plate. I also cut a hole and welded a 40mm tube into the peadl floor plate so my original handbrake arm could pass through it. I am running a vr booster and the cables come out behind this and around the RH side.
fred

[Errol62]

Hi Stinky
Original pedal modified by fitting HX accelerator cable. Riveted an extension to the lever that exits the floor to take the cable end and fabricated a bracket fitted above exit hole to accept the cable outer. Used the HX stromberg fittings to adapt to various carbs including 280 Holley. Works a treat. HX cables may not be so common these days. I guess today's version would be VT?
Cheers
Clay


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[Harv]

G'day Stinky,

I went through the cable conversion process a while back:

http://www.fbekholden.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=21683&hilit=harv+pedal+cable

I used a universal cable conversion kit from Flexible Drive, as I could not get a Mitsubishi L300 cable set up. I figure the Flexible Drive ones will be around a bit longer than the cables from wreckers.

The main drama comes with the original GMH firewall pedal lever, which is attached to the accelerator pedal and pokes through the firewall. This lever only moves some 12mm (from idle to WOT) on an FB/EK Holden… probably similar on an FE/FC. This means that the cable being pulled only moves 12mm too. For many carburetors this is not enough movement to get the carburetor throttle plates fully open. A potential remedy is to extend the firewall lever by welding (or bolting) on some flatbar. There is only so much that the lever can be extended though before the extension clashes with the subframe. As a guide, extending the firewall lever by an extra 40mm will deliver a cable pull of 35mm. This is better than the factory 12mm, but still not a huge movement – the factory single BXOV-1 Stromberg needs about this much pull.

For a longer cable pull, one option is to leave the firewall lever connected to the various levers across the firewall, and connect the cable to the upper cross shaft lever on the passenger’s side of the engine bay. In standard format, the end of the upper cross shaft lever side moves 35mm at the tip. This lever has a lot more room to move in (between the engine and the passenger’s side inner guard), and can be readily extended by welding or bolting on some flatbar. Extend the upper cross shaft lever 100mm will give 50mm of cable travel. Extending 200mm gives 70mm travel, whilst extending 300mm gives 85mm travel.



You can get cute and put a lever on the carb (cable pulls lever, lever pulls carb throttle arm) to give more travel… kinda defeats some of the purpose of running a cable though.

Apologies that the above is a little FB/EK centric, but it may help.

Cheers,
Harv

[Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius]

Top stuff, thanks Harv!
This is one of those hard deadline rush jobs (FE/FC Nats 2006!) that I never got around to fixing, the commodore pedal has a "pinch-point" and starts to suck the joy out of driving after a while.

[NES304]

VT pedal box sits almost perfectly with a small notch


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