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Author Topic: how much?  (Read 7000 times)
Blitz
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« on: April 29, 2016, 03:11:50 PM »
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Hi guys I'm brand new here and this is my first post

I'm trying to crunch some numbers to get a rough idea of what a build would cost.  The hardest bit is what would be a fair price for just a shell with glass etc with little or no rust be worth? I don't need engine or running gear, or one that has been modified a bit ie red engine or hr front end, I don't want to change an original one.

cheers

Blythe
« Last Edit: April 29, 2016, 03:22:46 PM by Blitz » Logged
hsv-001
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« Reply #1 on: April 29, 2016, 03:24:22 PM »
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That's not where the cost is . The real cost can come against you if you have not got clear in your mind what you want[experience] to build then subtract your own knowledge and ability. Haydn
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NES304
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« Reply #2 on: April 29, 2016, 05:07:09 PM »
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Really depends on what YOU can and want to spend  on a shell
Body
Metal mods
Paint
Upholstery
Wheels
Diff
Engine
Gearbox
Engineering
Transport between places while unregistered
Wife

These can all add up really quickly. Break it down and build it up to a final figure.














Then triple it
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Blitz
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« Reply #3 on: April 29, 2016, 05:10:21 PM »
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got most of that sorted what I dont know is the price of an FC sedan like that
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NES304
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« Reply #4 on: April 29, 2016, 05:27:53 PM »
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There's a couple roughys round for 5k... Need a lot of work
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Harv
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« Reply #5 on: April 29, 2016, 06:43:39 PM »
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It the "little or no rust" bit that will be expensive.

If you can weld yourself, rust repairs are (relatively) cheap. There are a fair amount of repair sections available, though some hand forming would be required.

If you can't weld, it can get very expensive, very quickly. Minor rust in 1-2 places can easily set you back $3,000. Moderate rust, paint and panel (to a neat, clean, daily driver standard) can easily set you back $10,000-$15,000. Double that (or more) for show car standard.

Frightening, isn't it?

Cheers,
Harv

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Blitz
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« Reply #6 on: April 29, 2016, 07:03:37 PM »
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thanks Harv thats what I was after, have rebuilt other cars (landrovers) cost a lot not worth anything when finished so I know2 how to cost the build it was the actual car trhat I have no real idea of so from what I have seen a relatively rust free with having to replace floor pans seems to be around the $10k mark
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RET
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« Reply #7 on: April 29, 2016, 07:21:38 PM »
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MONEY              -=-                  SKILLS                    -=-                TIME

You need all three, but you can get away with not much of any one if you have enough of the other two.



By the time you add up the cost of all the items that Nes has already laid out, the original shell is only a small portion of the eventual total. As a brilliant man once said, it's unwise to spend too much but it's foolish to spend too little. Start with the best bones you can afford, because the cost of repairing a complete shitter will quickly overtake what you spend on something that's a better starting point, particularly if you're paying someone to do the bodywork.

I would expect a well repaired, rust-free rolling shell, e.g. from an unfinished project would set you back between $2000-$4000, depending on what's been done to it and what else it comes with. You won't get a good enough "going concern" for under $8000 unless you're very lucky.

That would be my "licked finger in the air" guesstimate. For a nearly 60 year old vehicle, they still keep on turning up. Don't buy the first one you look at, and be prepared to travel for the right vehicle. A project that someone else has lost interest in could be a perfect starting point - any issues tend to be visible, and they frequently sell for far less than what's been spent.

Hope that helps, and good luck with your project.

cheers
RET
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KFV888
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« Reply #8 on: April 29, 2016, 08:15:39 PM »
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a good build starting with a half "reasonable" car, the way I think you want it will cost you $70k.
yep, even if you do heaps of work yourself, it will still cost plenty, that's what most builds cost these days, sound a bit, but when you break it down, its soon equates to that.
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NES304
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« Reply #9 on: April 29, 2016, 09:01:04 PM »
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Yep FC ute to the Summernats in excess couple hundred K
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Airfireman
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« Reply #10 on: April 29, 2016, 10:03:45 PM »
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Gday Blitz

My wife wanted a kombi so a I bought a cheap $1000 shell thinking  6 months and $10k I will a have cool resto....not even close with a project taking 3 years and $25,000 later it was finished.

I learnt my lesson by purchasing a FC that was already completed and only needed my own minor touch to have ready

Good luck and read a lot on the forums a great source of knowledge and experience

Cheers

Tim
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rickjen
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« Reply #11 on: April 30, 2016, 07:14:08 AM »
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i see it this way:-
If your aim is
Concourse show car  Big big $$$$$$$$$
Back to original 100% restore with good starting base car around $20k you do most work yourself.
rusty poor starting base FC big $$$$$$$$$$
Mine is a good starting FC nearly zero rust and complete, expecting to spend about $10 to $15k, and 100% rebuild to original. ( not show car)
But what is missing in this discussion so far is what price do we put on, new knowledge, having a go, satisfaction, meeting fellow FC restorers, the fun of the chase for missing parts, new challenges, great people, the enjoyment of seeing something coming back to its original glory etc. My wife who is very supportive sees the change in me ( relaxed) when I can spend a full day or two down the shed, we share the achievements together.
If you could put a price on that, then deduct that of your build and I would say that's a FREEBEE
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rickjen
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« Reply #12 on: April 30, 2016, 10:21:37 AM »
+2

  Having rebuilt 6 vehicles for entry into the Nationals from 1991 through to 2016, my suggestions gained from experience would be:
                                         # Spend time to locate a "good vehicle" & align yourself with the Panel Shop who will become involved & then get them to check it out. Don't buy on emotion
                                         # 60 year old original rust free vehicles do not exist. Two "barn finds" with storage periods of 20 & 28 years, still required rust repairs to the A pillar, floor pans & subframe.
                                         # Decide on your budget & then run it past  your partner!  Enthusiasm will soon evaporate as the dollars disappear.
                                         # Park the vehicle in the shed for as long as it takes to collect the parts you will need. This may take "years". I found much satisfaction in this part of the restoration.
                                         # Be realistic about what you can do, as against what you will need to pay others to do for you. [ rust repairs $30/ hr  for example].
                                         # If you are dismantling your pride & joy then, get hold of a workshop manual, collect containers with lids, I purchase takeaway food ones, ice cream containers, heaps of boxes, masking tape & marker pens.  Identify every part you remove  to avoid much head scratching down the line.
                                         # If you are doing a repaint, then remove the Subframe & repaint that first. If you 1/2 do the paint job, you may regret overlooking the Engine Bay.
                                         # Rebuilding grey motors is becoming very costly. You may require a "donor" engine". 
                                         # organise the chroming, cad-plating yourself. Others have a special skill in losing parts which you will then have to replace.
                                         # When you have digested all of the above, find a vehicle someone else has carefully done & BUY that!   It will be much cheaper than ending up with another unfinished project.
                                         
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