DJ
|
|
« Reply #80 on: January 25, 2015, 07:02:12 PM » |
0
|
I have the same clear lens at the bottom with the blank plug behind. The brake/blinker arrangement isn't that good by today's standard. Anyone behind can easily miss seeing your intentions in areas with decent street lights. I think I'll try a better stop lamp (led) & separate orange indicator lamp behind the clear lens. May help avoid a rear ender.
|
|
|
Logged
|
Dave 0417 270 315
|
|
|
mcl1959
|
|
« Reply #81 on: January 25, 2015, 10:18:13 PM » |
0
|
Yep, brake lights flash as indicators
Ken
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Gman
Junior Member
Offline
Model: FE
Posts: 96
|
|
« Reply #82 on: January 27, 2015, 11:06:27 AM » |
0
|
Spotted something interesting while under the van on the weekend... I wonder what the pimple faced young person at our local branch will say when I ask if they can still rebuild my shocks Does anyone know anyone that can/would rebuild telescopic shocks? The van still has original type front and rear, I'd like to keep it that way. Also does anyone know the original colour of the shocks? Oh, and also had another productive day on the van...
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Gman
Junior Member
Offline
Model: FE
Posts: 96
|
|
« Reply #83 on: January 27, 2015, 01:34:25 PM » |
0
|
for shits and giggles I rang repco...... they told me they don't do them anymore (since 2005 anyway) but SG Leslie and sons in Heidleberg 94592859 will do them for $275ish a pair.... Wow, shouldn't judge hey Has anybody had any experience with these guys and/or the process, eg: is it worth the bother?
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
FireKraka
|
|
« Reply #84 on: January 27, 2015, 01:38:24 PM » |
0
|
Hey Gman; Nice progress on the floors you are making great strides oh and I'm a little concerned with your avatar is that you in a spiderman outfit mate? ? Regards Neil H
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Gman
Junior Member
Offline
Model: FE
Posts: 96
|
|
« Reply #85 on: January 27, 2015, 02:19:13 PM » |
0
|
LOL yeah, thats spidey thats what I look like after 10 jack daniels while working in the shed...
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
DJ
|
|
« Reply #86 on: January 27, 2015, 03:22:07 PM » |
0
|
best not leave the shed either if jack makes you dress like that
|
|
|
Logged
|
Dave 0417 270 315
|
|
|
Gman
Junior Member
Offline
Model: FE
Posts: 96
|
|
« Reply #87 on: January 27, 2015, 08:52:28 PM » |
0
|
best not leave the shed either if jack makes you dress like that Have you been talking to my missus DJ? I think its the rust dust that makes me do it
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
DJ
|
|
« Reply #88 on: January 27, 2015, 11:34:12 PM » |
0
|
Well, it's a good effort on the floor regardless of what you're sucking on.
|
|
|
Logged
|
Dave 0417 270 315
|
|
|
Gman
Junior Member
Offline
Model: FE
Posts: 96
|
|
« Reply #89 on: January 28, 2015, 07:58:29 AM » |
0
|
Thanks for all the positive comments guys it helps with motivation, alot Anyone on the shocks???
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
fe350chev
|
|
« Reply #90 on: January 28, 2015, 11:12:34 AM » |
0
|
Hey mate. I'm ex truck mechanic and I will be doing my shocks myself. I just grit blasted them. In my opinion the shocks really do not need to be pulled apart to get them working properly unless they are leaking or stuck. The damping rate is up to you and depends on whether you have modified springs etc. With the shock fully extended, drill a hole about an inch from the seam at the thin end (base) and get a measuring cup and drain the oil into the cup by depressing it. May take a few primes. If they have been leaking then you will need to take it apart. If no sign of leak then changing the oil should be enough. If you want to play with the damping rate you just go up from say 10 rated oil to 20. If you want you can tap a thread and put a grub screw in so you can easily try different oil. You buy shock oil on eBay etc. These old shocks are basic. What I have done is gone to a large autoshop, get the missus or friend to go with you and get a new non gas shock out of its packet and then starting from fully depressed (short), extend it as quick as you can, then time how long it takes for it to fully extend on your phone stop watch. Then once you have filled the shock with standard shock oil you just go up a grade in oil til you get the leak down rate time that the shop one had. I just pull it as hard as I can. If you want to be more scientific use a force measurement gauge. It doesn't matter how worn it is inside in my opinion unless it is dry and won't move. This is because the orifice inside the shock is likely to wear at a steady rate so the oil viscocity is compensating if you get me. Go to your local shock place and get old ones of similar vintage and practice on them. Most ppl don't bother cos time is money and they are too cheap to stuff around with. New seals are pretty standard sizes.
|
|
|
Logged
|
Deano
Current Rides: 1958 "Black and White Taxi" FC special Sedan, 1957 FE special Sedan, BA Futura, 2015 VF Commodore, 1956 Austin Tipper Truck
|
|
|
Gman
Junior Member
Offline
Model: FE
Posts: 96
|
|
« Reply #91 on: January 28, 2015, 11:23:00 AM » |
0
|
Thanks Deano, it didn't even enter my mind about doing them myself, Might have a go yet... I assume you would just weld the hole up when finished? What do you do if they are leaking? I was told by repco that if they have already been rebuilt then they often machine down the shaft diameter and futher rebuilding is no longer viable, what do you think?
Cheers.
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
fe350chev
|
|
« Reply #92 on: January 28, 2015, 11:35:07 AM » |
0
|
Here's a good video for your purposes. The reason I would encourage you to give it a go is because it really isn't a life or death component if you get it wrong and once you become confident after doing a few if you had doubt you can always put them on a shock tester. Shock Absorber Taken Apart and Explained: http://youtu.be/OSxUoGh_XMkSump or go kart grub screw Depends on the shock how you plug it up. Either weld or grub screw it.
|
|
|
Logged
|
Deano
Current Rides: 1958 "Black and White Taxi" FC special Sedan, 1957 FE special Sedan, BA Futura, 2015 VF Commodore, 1956 Austin Tipper Truck
|
|
|
mcl1959
|
|
« Reply #93 on: January 28, 2015, 05:19:19 PM » |
0
|
Shock colour is black by the way.
Ken
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Gman
Junior Member
Offline
Model: FE
Posts: 96
|
|
« Reply #94 on: February 06, 2015, 01:18:37 PM » |
0
|
In case anyone needed proof that tags where painted, been forging ahead, ready for rotisserie
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
NES304
|
|
« Reply #95 on: February 06, 2015, 03:40:58 PM » |
0
|
Shock colour is black by the way.
Ken
That is a shock
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
mcl1959
|
|
« Reply #96 on: February 06, 2015, 04:47:25 PM » |
0
|
Like Ripley's "believe it or not" Ken
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
DJ
|
|
« Reply #97 on: February 06, 2015, 08:03:20 PM » |
0
|
Now that's a knife shock
|
|
|
Logged
|
Dave 0417 270 315
|
|
|
fe350chev
|
|
« Reply #98 on: February 07, 2015, 07:58:42 AM » |
0
|
Now he can strut his stuff.
|
|
|
Logged
|
Deano
Current Rides: 1958 "Black and White Taxi" FC special Sedan, 1957 FE special Sedan, BA Futura, 2015 VF Commodore, 1956 Austin Tipper Truck
|
|
|
Gman
Junior Member
Offline
Model: FE
Posts: 96
|
|
« Reply #99 on: February 07, 2015, 07:30:10 PM » |
0
|
You guys aren't very phunny..... Anyway, are there different floor plates for different models? The one i've scored doesn't line up with all the bolt holes...
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|