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Author Topic: Inner door rubbers  (Read 5323 times)
DJ
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« on: December 04, 2014, 10:39:02 AM »
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After reading through the various posts on which way the inner door seals sit, I'm still not 100% certain.
Would anyone have a diagram or even a crude drawing showing the section sitting inside the channel?
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Dave
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« Reply #1 on: December 04, 2014, 10:51:59 AM »
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Half way down the page

http://forum.fefcholden.club/index.php?topic=17359.0
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fe350chev
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« Reply #2 on: December 04, 2014, 11:21:13 AM »
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DJ if you still have trouble, I am sure if you wander into a local panel beater that they will demonstrate it to you. The other issue could well be that you aren't holding your mouth right.
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Deano

Current Rides: 1958 "Black and White Taxi" FC special Sedan, 1957 FE special Sedan, BA Futura,  2015 VF Commodore, 1956 Austin Tipper Truck
DJ
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« Reply #3 on: December 04, 2014, 01:06:33 PM »
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Thanks Pete, some good tips in that lot.
The outer wasn't much trouble & I'm at the stage of doing the mitres, so it was good to see the vid & pics.
The inner seal I have is bagged in a 'Bill Thompson' package. I think now that it's a slightly different profile compared the pictures I've looked at, hence the hesitation.

The other issue could well be that you aren't holding your mouth right.

Quite right ..... combined with failing eyesight & a tolerance level lower than it used to be.





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Dave
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« Reply #4 on: December 04, 2014, 04:34:58 PM »
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Just take your time DJ - I took it very slowly when installing my door rubbers and all worked well.

Patience is a virtue when doing the rubbers......

Cheers, Graeme
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DJ
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« Reply #5 on: December 04, 2014, 07:12:55 PM »
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I hear those word in the background ..... it may not happen overnight .....
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Dave
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« Reply #6 on: December 04, 2014, 07:25:58 PM »
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Finding a nice workable glue is the main hurdle contact adhesive is painful gets everywhere messes up the paint if spilt .

What glue are people using ?
Loctite 403, 406 is great for quick fixes but ive found water can loosen it and its really runny.
I have used ZAP thick its for model aeroplane buildiing its ok too but im not sure what to use on the ute..

Pete
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DJ
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« Reply #7 on: December 04, 2014, 07:51:20 PM »
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Advice from a panel beater/spray painter was that the Loctite can pull the paint away & tear the rubber if you try to move it around once it's set.
The contact can be messy so he prefers to use the small tubes with nozzles & doing only a couple of feet at a time. The biggest advantage of using contact was that Prepsol will soften it without damaging the paint, allowing easy clean up & removal of the rubber if you need to.
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Dave
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« Reply #8 on: December 04, 2014, 08:19:45 PM »
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Thanks for the info ill be extra careful..
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DJ
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« Reply #9 on: December 04, 2014, 09:00:25 PM »
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I found cutting for the 90 degree corners a little difficult using scissors. The photo using the knife & board looks like the go.
Can't see you having much trouble with your trained eye.
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Dave
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« Reply #10 on: December 04, 2014, 09:05:23 PM »
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I fit foam tape gaskets to gland plates at work.
Ive found the autosmart razor blades work well sharp and pretty large so you can get a square cut.
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DJ
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« Reply #11 on: December 04, 2014, 09:12:30 PM »
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Very good, thanks. I have a go with them. Sharper would be better so the material doesn't move around.
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Dave
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