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Author Topic: Grey oil pressure  (Read 9039 times)
Gary C
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« on: August 14, 2014, 07:42:39 PM »
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Just wondering what sort of oil pressure the healthy grey motors out there are achieving?

Modified oil pumps or standard doesnt matter. 

Thanks, Gary
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Gary C
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« Reply #1 on: August 16, 2014, 09:55:10 PM »
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Anybody out there with a pressure gauge on a grey?

Gary
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Stewy
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« Reply #2 on: August 16, 2014, 10:12:43 PM »
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Hi Gary,
The shop manual says  normal oil pressure (hot) ---  29 lbs. per sq. in. + - 2 lbs. at 1200 r.p.m.
                                   
                             maximum oil pressure (hot) ----  40 lbs. per sq. in.



Cheers Stewy   Cool
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FCV08
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« Reply #3 on: August 16, 2014, 11:01:57 PM »
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The Wilsonia gauge tops out at 50psi
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FCRB26
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« Reply #4 on: August 17, 2014, 07:52:54 AM »
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Couldnt believe you run the wilsonia with a 5.0l mine has a Brand new jp high volume oil pump with the cam bolt hole welded up I dont think ill risk blowing my wilsonia guage apart.. Grin
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Not Happy Jan
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« Reply #5 on: August 19, 2014, 01:31:48 PM »
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Mine's running at about 28 at idle warmed up.
Nick
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Gary C
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« Reply #6 on: August 19, 2014, 02:21:42 PM »
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Thanks fellas that gives me enough to work on.

Just want to adjust pressure relief on the bench before install.

I have been chewing up big ends, 3 sets this year.

Gary
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ardiesse
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« Reply #7 on: August 19, 2014, 03:23:30 PM »
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Gary,

Something's very wrong if you've chewed out three sets of big-end bearings.

At the least I'd be inclined to remove the crankshaft and clean out the oil galleries in the block, and also the drilled passages in the crankshaft.

You're only chewing out the big ends, but not the mains, nor the cam bearings?

Rob
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Gary C
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« Reply #8 on: August 19, 2014, 08:15:22 PM »
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Rob,

I have a flash auto meter oil pressure gauge and under hard cornering (mainly righthand ) my gauge would sit around 35 psi at 6000 rpm 
then after about 8 laps while on cool down lap little men with little hammers were going for it in my sump.That was the first set of big ends and mains.

New bearings fitted,sump baffled and external oil filter added. also moroso oil pressure warning light set at 15lb.
Noticed warning light flickering in hard cornering a few times but thinking should be fine.
In cool down lap no little men with hammers but dropped oil and you guessed it white metal in sump.
Removed sump and 3 big ends shot mains were ok (last time the mains did not have wear but had bearing trash added because no oil filter)

Add about1.5 litre capacity to sump more baffles.
15 minutes qualifying all good till cool down then oil pressure dropped to 5psi,shut engine down put car on trailer go home.

I had to return to work next day and wont be back for a couple of weeks, but word is 45 psi is essential.
(big end journals have been drilled out to match mains)

Thanks, Gary.
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Trevor_B
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« Reply #9 on: August 19, 2014, 10:09:52 PM »
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Hi Gary,
Please check your PM's
Cheers,
Trevor_B
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ardiesse
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« Reply #10 on: August 20, 2014, 10:38:15 AM »
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Gary,

(egg on face)

. . . and here I was thinking it was a regular stock grey motor in a road-registered car . . .

A motor used for competition - that's a different ball-game altogether.

Rob
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Gary C
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« Reply #11 on: August 20, 2014, 07:08:03 PM »
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Hey Rob no egg on face mate same principles still apply and your advice is appreciated and also makes a lot of sense to me.

Thanks Gary
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weddo
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« Reply #12 on: August 20, 2014, 08:52:47 PM »
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I would be checking the oil pump Gary to ensure a more constant oil pressure can be achieved, and when you do have a look remember that when the oil in a high reving motor has lubricated any part, it needs to get back to the sump as quicly as possible.
Have you extended the pick up when you extended the capacity of the sump.
This may sound silly but little things can be done to achieve quite a lot -  Polished rods so oil doesn't hang, small hole above the base of your lifters helps remove excess oil that will collect inside and help lubricate the tube", smooth the pathways in the surface of the head below the rocker gear so oil will flow and not stick.
Over size lubrication holes and galleries, and when you remove the oil pump extend a small groove up the shaft to extend the lubricated area and less wear.

Good luck with your efforts

regards

Weddo
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Gary C
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« Reply #13 on: August 21, 2014, 06:11:42 PM »
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Hi Weddo thanks for the advice I will take all on board when I get back to removing engine.

I didnt add any depth to the sump (not as yet anyway) only extended right hand side bottom area adjacent pump.

I have ordered a chev m29 oil pump and believe it doesnt take much to fit and are available new and will be for a long time yet.
When it arrives just need to check flow and bypass pressures but it does lubricate a much larger engine so should be fine.

You know how it goes get more power then car wont stop or handle, sort out the handling then you need more power,never ending.

Thanks, Gary.
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