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Author Topic: Crump Snr's second project  (Read 69715 times)
FCRB26
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« Reply #20 on: February 28, 2014, 06:42:19 AM »
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the Bannana back trays make a huge difference that way you can have fixed ramps ect.

Also i would hate to be at any sort of height driving a car on a full height tray.

The other thought to would be to lose a heap of leafs out of the springs and install overide air bags truck style ones
 They are not overly expensive that would also help get the truck a lot lower?
Also you could probablly go a lower rolling diameter tyre...


Just a thought.

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KFH
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« Reply #21 on: February 28, 2014, 09:27:36 AM »
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If you have the physical room on the property why not build a loading ramp the height of the truck tray that and back the truck up to.  This way you can use as much soil as necessary to get a reasonable angle to drive the car up.

Keith
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hsv-001
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« Reply #22 on: February 28, 2014, 10:09:20 AM »
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Cant see you getting 14" either way . Might have to remove the head beam and door depending on the roof pitch .Anyway here is another idea on the seat . My Vauxhall project required a very small seat about 1100mm.The original was going to be impossible to repair[I recovered it but it was way out of shape and weighed a tonne]. I found a ford courier [bravo] extra cab bench seat on ebay that needed recovering . I removed the headrests and the vinyl and the foam and then cut about 150mm from the centre welded it back together and replaced the foam. It has a lever to fold it forward .

 

 

Haydn
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Crumpsnr
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« Reply #23 on: February 28, 2014, 06:52:15 PM »
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Hi all, thanks for the comments and suggestions.

Pete, I have access to an Inter chassis with 16 inch wheels, and will be doing some measurements this weekend to see whetehr bits will transfer to mine.
Air bags sounds like a good option too. The long term plan possibly involved a banana back but I'd rather keep it as a flat tray if possible. Still have to check out the tipper thats available as well, so i have a few options.

Ed, unfortunately I have a suburban house, but with a big garage under, so earth banking is not an option!

Haydn, that's a great idea for the seat and will do some homework on that. You must be happy with the way yours turned out.
Doing the header over the garage is a no go!

The tray is mounted quite high on big timber blocks, and could be lowered quite a lot, especially if I use the 16 inch suspension, so I reckon the drop I need just might be possible.

Last resort is to store the truck in a shed at my old man's farm, not too far from where I live.

Thanks to FCDave who pulled out the tape and gave me the good news that the FC will fit on the back of the truck length wise, if I can get it on!

Regards, Martyn



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fcwrangler
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« Reply #24 on: February 28, 2014, 07:13:00 PM »
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Martyn, a mate of mine has a car trailer that pivots so it makes it easier to roll on/off, so maybe the tipper hydraulics could work. Just a thought, if you make the tray similar to a car trailer, you would gain a fair bit by fixing the frame direct to the chassis with nylon or rubber spacers, although this would be a fixed frame so you would need to look at some form of pivots. You could also look at a tilt tray system similar to a tow truck.
Jim
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DJ
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« Reply #25 on: March 01, 2014, 12:21:14 AM »
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This reminds me of my father's place - ended up with a new lean-to off the side of a double garage for each additional car/truck/mower. It was the most convenient way to provide shelter & easy access to any vehicle. Work was carried out in the main double garage & if anything needed to stay there for a while the daily drivers used the smaller sides temporally. But then it was a 1.25 acre block.
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« Reply #26 on: March 01, 2014, 10:43:59 AM »
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Cant see you getting 14" either way . Might have to remove the head beam and door depending on the roof pitch .Anyway here is another idea on the seat . My Vauxhall project required a very small seat about 1100mm.The original was going to be impossible to repair[I recovered it but it was way out of shape and weighed a tonne]. I found a ford courier [bravo] extra cab bench seat on ebay that needed recovering . I removed the headrests and the vinyl and the foam and then cut about 150mm from the centre welded it back together and replaced the foam. It has a lever to fold it forward .

 

 

Haydn
Does it lean all the way back?
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hsv-001
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« Reply #27 on: March 01, 2014, 03:08:37 PM »
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Where would it lay back to? Hoping for just a quick easy daily driver. Haydn

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Crumpsnr
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« Reply #28 on: March 01, 2014, 03:21:46 PM »
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Yeah DJ, that'd be a nice option! That's sorta the setup where my parts shed is on my old man's farm, with the lean-to enclosed and with a concrete floor. That may end up being the home for the truck but I'll know better tomorrow after measuring the Inter chassis.

Haydn, I'm the same, I don't need it to fold back, just enough forward to give access behind.
Had sorta resigned myself to losing the storage area but that setup you've got gives me hope.
Nice project too!
Martyn
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NES304
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« Reply #29 on: March 01, 2014, 09:46:52 PM »
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Where would it lay back to? 
My back seat if it were in my car!
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DJ
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« Reply #30 on: March 01, 2014, 11:01:28 PM »
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I'm 339mm too high
Martyn, could you load/unload with the truck in the shed - would the distance from the end of the tray to the door opening allow enough headroom mid-way over ramps?
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Dave
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Crumpsnr
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« Reply #31 on: March 03, 2014, 09:37:58 PM »
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DJ, The prize goes out to you for the simplest solution!
I spent a lot of time measuring on the weekend. Long story short, the swap with International bits won't work.
DJ's suggestion works. I'd thought about doing it but really wanted to avoid having a brain snap and backing out with the car on the back. I like FC convertibles but don't want one for now...
However, given other options look too complicated I think I'll follow DJ's lead and spend the money on making up a good set of ramps instead.
I can still gain a couple of hundred mm anyway by taking out some of the timber blocking under the tray. It sits too high and I can see that sometime in the past it's moved sideways slightly.
Thanks for all the comment everyone.
I'll post a photo later showing how the exhaust had been held in with wire hanging off the brake line.
Regards, Martyn
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DJ
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« Reply #32 on: March 04, 2014, 12:09:11 PM »
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I'd leave myself a note on the steering wheel of the truck (and say it was to warn others)
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Dave
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« Reply #33 on: March 05, 2014, 05:30:58 PM »
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Hey Martyn, nothing like farmers & wire. I ended up with half a bucket of wire, nails & sharpened bolts when I did the Inter. Sharpened bolts for clevis pins, nails for split pins & wire for everything else including the handbrake assembly Shocked  . Bloody farmers.
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Crumpsnr
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« Reply #34 on: March 07, 2014, 11:52:40 PM »
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DJ, yet another good idea! Maybe I could leave the truck keys in the glovebox of the FC, that way I'd hopefully remember why they were there!
Have had a few successes recently. Welded up splits that were each side at the rear of the centre bonnet section. Rebuilt a fuel pump out of a red motor kit, a kit FCDave had and the original pump. The red motor diaphragm was identical but the centre shaft was too long, so swapped the existing shaft to the red diaphragm and it looks like it'll do the job. The truck was originally positive earth so I had the polarity on the generator reversed so I can now run it as negative earth. Not that I expect anyone else to be working on it and get caught out but if I have a fuzzy day I don't have to remember which way it goes. I found a seat that looks like it'll be perfect, out of a L300 Mitsubishi Express. The seat back folds forward, and the base can be set to lift as well, so I can make use of the storage under the seat. Took off the exhaust to make up a new one. Found the muffler hanging from wire looped through the chassis rail around the brake line and back outside the chassis rail. Regards, Martyn



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DJ
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« Reply #35 on: March 08, 2014, 11:54:08 AM »
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Gotta love that fencing wire, versatile enough for anything from keeping the vehicles together to drying your rabbit skins.
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Dave
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« Reply #36 on: March 11, 2014, 11:04:22 PM »
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G'day all.
The FC's taken a bit of a back seat for now. Still plugging away on the truck, fitted the cobbled up fuel pump on the weekend. It works but the fuel line keeps blocking up so will pull the tank out later and flush it. Started the truck using a can of fuel with a line dropped in, and it sounds sweet as, with a really nice idle. Very satisfying! That confirms the change to the generator polarity was all good too. Dropped the Mitsubishi seat in for a rough fit-up, and it looks as though it will be pretty well perfect once I set the right height and mount it. Looks like I'll be able to swing forward the rear section and lift the base up to get underneath the seat too. The shifter clears too, so no notching the seat. Over for now, Martyn.
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FC427
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« Reply #37 on: March 12, 2014, 08:44:35 AM »
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I fitted a F##D  split bench in my Inter  from a 90's 6 seat wagon  It  lines up over the original floor mount very nice and only need a plate to bolt it down   Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin........FC427..........
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« Reply #38 on: March 14, 2014, 09:48:37 AM »
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Just wondering about the polarity change on the genny. Did that make the amp guage read in the negative . As I recall doing that when using a alternator on the old Inters produce such a result . My second question is "why a generator?" I would probably use a alternator then use H4 headlights , these old trucks are fun to drive [ I learnt to drive in AL,AR,AS Internationals usually full of horses] but they are not so quick [hence the headlight upgrade].Keep us updated ,its a nice project . Cheers, Haydn
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Penners
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« Reply #39 on: March 14, 2014, 11:21:47 AM »
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Hey guys, I'm an auto elec, and have access to generators that have been made with alternator internals for the classic car market.. Rated at 45amp current output and close to 14volt stable depending on harness/ battery condition.. Look pretty sweet, with minor wiring modification ..
Cheers, Penners


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Hope to start a sweet build soon..
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