Locking brakes

[JohnBM]

I have a recurring problem with the brakes on my '57 FE. A couple of years ago I had the hoses, wheel cyls and shoes replaced and everything was fine for a few months. Then if the car had been sitting a week or more, or it had been cold weather the front R/H brake would lock up when first starting to drive. It would take about 5 mins up and down the drive to get it right for the road. I took it back to mechanic and again it was ok, now with the cooler weather it's doing it again. The mechanic has since retired. A fellow member of our club FEFC W.A. has recently restored an FE and is having the same trouble. I can't imagine it would be some inherent problem with the model. Has anyone experienced the same or similar and what exactly was done to rectify it. The Nationals are looming
JohnBM 

[ardiesse]

John,

"Grabby" front brakes in early Holdens are fairly common.  Both my earlies, a 48 and an FC, are prone to the problem in cool, damp weather if they haven't been driven for a while.  But there are other factors which contribute -

weak brake shoe retractor springs,
corrosion products and other gunk between the slave cylinder pistons and the cylinder walls,
rust and other gunk between the adjusters and the slave cylinders.

All these have the effect of making the affected shoes not retract properly, so they apply hard with little pedal effort.

If you don't mind a little DIY troubleshooting, before you drive the car next time, jack the RHF wheel up and spin the wheel.  It should rotate freely, without dragging.  Next, pull the wheel and drum off, and examine the slave cylinder for evidence of fluid leaks - in its early stage a fluid leak will look like a rusty drip at the bottom of the adjsuters, just above the retractor springs.  If you see signs of fluid leaks, it's time for a slave cylinder rebuild.  If the brakes don't drag, and the slave cylinder looks dry, get someone to push down on the brake pedal slowly and gently by hand while you watch the brake adjusters.  They should both start to move almost as soon as your assistant pushes on the brake pedal, and they should move outwards together, at the same rate.  They should also retract fully on release of the brake pedal.  Push the brake shoes hard "home" by hand to make certain they are retracting fully.  If you need to help the brake shoes retract, the pistons are almost certainly sticking, and it's time for a slave cylinder rebuild. Grabbing brakes are frequently made worse by a sticky leading (=front) slave cylinder piston.

If you clamp the hose shut with a G-clamp, you can disassemble the brakes, remove the adjuster, and with care, pop the pistons out for cleaning without disturbing the rubber cup.  Only if you're brave.

If everything seems in order, get some medium-grade sandpaper and gently sand the glaze off the linings.  Wipe the drum out with a dry rag.  Reassemble the brakes and drive the car.  More often.

[FCRB26]

I had a similar issue last year with my fe.

Previous owner had put primary and secondary shoes back to front on passenger side.

Pete

[mcl1959]

For cars that are not used much, it is a good idea to use plenty of rubber grease around the pistons and in the bore on the dry side of the seal. Clealiness cannot be overstated in the pistons and caps.
But I also agree with both the main spring tension too low and the shoes back to front.
Check also that the brake drum is not warped where it mounts on the hub.
Correctly assembled and maintained brakes should not grab.

Ken

[hsv-001]

Old or perished flexible brake hoses ? They can swell inside and slow fluid flow,if they[both front ones] are  old and its the drivers side front that's grabbing [being closer to the junction block] this may be the problem ,but check wheel cylinders , shoes, and drums first[swap shoes and drums from left to right] this will tell you a lot.

[JohnBM]

Many thanks to all for your suggestions and comments. Very much appreciated.

JohnBM