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Author Topic: ignition timing  (Read 11932 times)
dwortho
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« on: August 15, 2013, 10:41:49 PM »
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Hiya all
i've rebuilt the grey motor put it back in the ute and it won't start?
how do i set the timing from scratch.
I got the ball at the marker and no1 piston up and put the dizzy in set at no1 which i think is wrong!

please can anybody help?

Dwortho

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Stewy
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« Reply #1 on: August 15, 2013, 11:05:35 PM »
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This thread may help http://fefcholden.org.au/forum/index.php/topic,11874.msg69983.html#msg69983


Cheers Stewy   Cool
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No matter how much you push the envelope, It'll still be stationery
dwortho
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« Reply #2 on: August 15, 2013, 11:33:25 PM »
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Hi Stewy
I decided to put in electronic ignition but also i seemed to have followed what's in the manual, but i know  i've done something wrong!but what i don't know.

Thanks
Dwortho
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Neil FE Van
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« Reply #3 on: August 16, 2013, 07:20:57 AM »
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Could be out 180 degrees. if it is remove dissy and turn 180 degrees.
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hsv-001
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« Reply #4 on: August 16, 2013, 06:12:51 PM »
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I'm old school and still set timing this way. Tappet cover off, turn the motor over by hand until you see the tappet second from the back [number 6 intake valve] is closing the valve and the tappet right at the back is opening. At this point number 6 is at top dead centre on the exhaust stroke and therefore number 1 piston is on top dead centre on the compression stroke. Now you should be able to line up your timing mark correctly as you have done previously. Your distributor can now be put back in. Be aware that the spade end at the bottom of the distributor drives your oil pump so always make sure it is all the way down. The angle cut timing gear on the distributor mean you have to point the rotor button towards the position of plug lead number 1 and then back it up so as it turns as you put it down in the hole and realigns. Finally you can now loosen the clamp on the distributor and fine tune. If you have any problems call me.
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dwortho
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« Reply #5 on: August 16, 2013, 10:05:11 PM »
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Thanks hsv
yes realized i was 180 degrees out, don't know if i was right but turned the motor till number 1 intake was coming up then kept turning till the ball marker  was at the timing point.it's running rough so i'll try your method'

cheers

Dwortho
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hsv-001
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« Reply #6 on: August 17, 2013, 11:00:29 AM »
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Sorry about that, I was half asleep. The bit about the order of the back two valves is the wrong way around . The number 6 piston (the back one) comes up exhausting the spent gases then as the exhaust valve closes, the intake starts to open  so the down stroke intakes the fuel air mixture. At the point where the back two tappets are rocking between intake and exhaust is the point at which number one is at the point of top dead centre [tdc] and at the point of combustion approx. 6 degrees before tdc . Its been awhile since I timed a sideplate and had to think about explaining it but here goes . If the timing mark is showing in the window [the hole in the flywheel cover] then turn the motor back and forward slightly to determine which valves are moving. Like I previously said, if the back tappets are moving it is correct if the front two are moving its 180 out. So now tdc. on the compression stroke has been established , you put your distributor in. As the rotor turns clockwise while the engine is running , the rotor will turn anti-clockwise as you replace it so you will have to allow for this by turning the rotor backward before putting it in. Trial and error till the rotor lines up to where it faces number one lead. Once you are certain the distributor is in correctly ,put the handbrake on , select neutral and turn the ignition to the on position and loosen the distributor bracket bolt , then carefully turn the distributor until a spark jumps across your ignition points. Then tighten the distributor back down. As your timing is in advance of tdc the rotor should now face a point  just anticlockwise of the number one lead. 
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dwortho
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« Reply #7 on: August 17, 2013, 03:32:58 PM »
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many thanks hsv-001

Dwortho
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ted
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« Reply #8 on: August 17, 2013, 09:35:29 PM »
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Hi I have found the quickest way is to remove no 1 spark plug and disconnect the coil wire so the engine wont start."Take note of where the no 1 spark wire is located on the distributer cap .Put your finger over the spark plug hole and get some to turn the engine over .Every time the compression pushes your finger away from the spark plug hole (causing a popping noise) the rotor button should be at the no 1 position on the distributor /rotor cap

Regards Ted
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dwortho
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« Reply #9 on: August 18, 2013, 10:38:46 AM »
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Thanks Ted

Cheers
Dwortho
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hsv-001
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« Reply #10 on: August 18, 2013, 04:15:27 PM »
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Yep absolutely correct. I did this in front of a just out of college mechanic [RACQ]and he had never seen it before. I started helping my older brother pull motors apart at age 5 . Now he approaches me when he gets stuck, trouble is its like tying shoelaces ,you just do it and never stop to think how to explain it. So my small intellect thanks you for the exercise cheers.
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dwortho
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« Reply #11 on: August 25, 2013, 08:57:56 PM »
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hi all
thanks everybody for the help and those at the fe fc auction last nite got running just right!

many thanks
Dwortho
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