Isnt that what shimming is for. Arent you both talking about the same thing in this case. In karting Ackerman gives you the "jacking" effect. No Ackerman and it feels like u are laden with bricks cos there is no differential to change rear end wheel speeds, so makes drag on engine because the back wheel wont lift off ground. If the steering geometry is not standard (from factory) and the correlational relationships of the geometry are changed like with using the hq arms (as with karting when you increase castor it makes the steering heavy on turns and increases the Ackerman effect causing the back wheel to come off the ground more like a diff effect), then the toe out on turns (or lack thereof) increases loads through the steering hub and king pins and knuckle, tyres etc because the inner tyre closest to the inside radius of the corner is having to travel more distance (or similar) in relation to the right wheel, when in fact you want the opposite.
The picture of my sons racing kart might help u understand the tie rods on your rack better. See how it has adjustable points (3) along the steering arm (i think effectively like aftermarket holden spindles) with funny notches in the top 2 rack mounting points (call it a rack for this) of differing shapes. Most guys want standard ackerman so just use the standard holes at the back cos ackerman is built into the arm at the factory the same as say hr/hg curved steering arms that they are built with. HQ short steering arms are not the go in my opinion, even though I havent tried it, but I am researching for myself. They are too straight so no curve built in, which affects the relationship btw the ball joint to the steering axle turn point and subsequent tyre angles on full lock. When we kart race with lots of hard turns a certain way, say lots of turn hard left corners that are slow sharp corners, u can change to the second slots on the steering arms on the kart, and using the multiple position loopy groove, actually "fine tunes" your left hand side (for example) to turn in more than the standard 3 degrees for "true ackerman" (quite a universal formula) to a front steering setup that bites hard and toes on turns more dramatically and at a quicker point, creating a very pointy front end steering setup for hard left cornering at the expense or right hand turns, so if u gain 2 tenths on 5 left corners and loose a tenth on 2 right hand corners, its worth it.
HG are shorter, creating the same effect as moving the pivot point on the kart of the tie rods further forward, (. but there is a variance that someone might be able to point out somewhere in those models). Although HQ creates desirable heavier steering like when u put the HQ power steer ones in, because your reducing mechanical advantage...of course
HOWEVER, steering arms look the way they do in different models for a reason. The steering rack mounting point comes into play and if this is not set at the right position (forward or rear) then the only way to rectify this is to change your rack position or shim the mounting points in the steering knuckle/spindle assembly. The closest correct one (I believe) is HK-HG steering arms, but as Ken rightly points out, you are better to stick with HR ones than using HQ. Torana wont work either i believe. So I hope I am fairly correct for the best possible setup for your application, which is the same application I am embarking on.
The easiest way to check it, which is a good backyard method, is to open your garage door, measure get a cheap straight laser from bunnings, drive the car straight up the drive facing the garage walls, but needs to be a flat surface leaving room at front, perhaps with wheels on concrete edge, mark the centre of tyre with chalk on both sides and measure them from centre to centre. set up the 2 lazer sticks for straight ahead and tape them into a position facing the wall until you get an even measurement straight ahead. Once same distance of beams and physical tyre width same, mark with a straight edge with chalk on the ground where the beam is. then turn wheels as far to the left as possible marking the beams on the ground. Then turn lights on and get a large set square and measure the difference between the right one and the left one, aim for greater than 3 deg difference but less than 5. Doing it at the centre means that other mods wont matter in the result. BUT Its much easier to get a wheel aligner to do it
but who wants to keep paying for that. It sounds harder than it is but you need to be accurate with your line drawing.
