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Author Topic: Rust repair advice  (Read 11941 times)
fe350chev
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« on: December 10, 2011, 05:16:17 PM »
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See this, I did a 2 inch groove in this seam rust repair, wasnt right through so use the di grinder to clean out the thin metal backing and filled it. Came up ok.

But see this one. I've done the same but have have stopped where this real bas bit is and holes right through. What would some of the good welders do, cut a triangle past or fill it with some actual metal then mig etc or what is your opinions. I am sure this is a normal spot for rust.
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Deano

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mcl1959
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« Reply #1 on: December 10, 2011, 08:27:29 PM »
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Yep - cut out and replace with a good bit of metal

Ken
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FCRB26
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« Reply #2 on: December 10, 2011, 08:57:22 PM »
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Wait till you find a big section of lead and it melts and drips on your foot.
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fe350chev
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« Reply #3 on: December 10, 2011, 09:50:17 PM »
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Hmmm, would have to be a big bit to run that far  Cheesy there was nuttin on telly so I welded a patch in. Hard to get a good light to see but Ill do a final prep tomoz in good light.
Probably not as good as some guys on here, but I am an office worker and can do welding but don't really like it. This might be about to change as I have learned to relax and am getting some small runs on sheet metal which is something I have never been able to do! It's all Pedro's fault, I thought if he can have a go, I can too. I had a xb 351 fairmont GS 15 years ago that had bare metal resto and I did some patched and sills in that, but it wasn't even a really old car back then!

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Deano

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Not Happy Jan
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« Reply #4 on: December 11, 2011, 07:28:13 PM »
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whats wrong with that Huh
Looks good.
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« Reply #5 on: December 12, 2011, 12:16:35 PM »
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Wait till you find a big section of lead and it melts and drips on your foot.



What Hoon said  Grin

Dean.
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FCRB26
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« Reply #6 on: December 12, 2011, 12:25:00 PM »
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Wow.

I didnt mean that much Grin
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fe350chev
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« Reply #7 on: December 12, 2011, 04:49:48 PM »
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Do any of you blokes have pics or links of strengthened subframes. Hoon do you have the rear fuel tank program in your whiz bang computer cutter. Can u lead me to where this is for the Fe I'm doing. Wanna show an engineer.
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Deano

Current Rides: 1958 "Black and White Taxi" FC special Sedan, 1957 FE special Sedan, BA Futura,  2015 VF Commodore, 1956 Austin Tipper Truck
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« Reply #8 on: December 12, 2011, 07:10:26 PM »
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I cut all that section man man man manually LOL.


I have a heap of chassis pics ive been stashing ill send you some.
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fe350chev
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« Reply #9 on: December 12, 2011, 07:23:53 PM »
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Or perhaps you could slowly make me a tank with baffles or do you think i should go commodore. Have you done much with 9 inch diff housings. I thought you have the tank fresh in your mind and could send me the insert when we start the floor work late January.
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Deano

Current Rides: 1958 "Black and White Taxi" FC special Sedan, 1957 FE special Sedan, BA Futura,  2015 VF Commodore, 1956 Austin Tipper Truck
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« Reply #10 on: December 12, 2011, 08:26:39 PM »
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 ;Dwe Grin


Its took me all of what 14 months to get a car stripped and 2 rust repairs done i think commodore might be quicker the way im going.  Wink

Too much work on at the moment..
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fe350chev
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« Reply #11 on: December 12, 2011, 08:49:14 PM »
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I understand what your saying. But if there are any obvious little things along the way that you have solutions for, just let me know as I am in deep with this 350 chev shit now lol. The taxi brings me down to earth. it will be like driving miss daisy versus near death!
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Deano

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« Reply #12 on: December 12, 2011, 09:33:24 PM »
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I have designed my own alloy tank that allows for dual exhausts out the rear.

I measured a VN Commodore tank and it fits neatly into the removed boot floor but very limited space down each side.

The tank I designed allows for the exhaust to exit the rear.

Let me know if you are wanting some plans to work with.

Cheers

Craig D
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fe350chev
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« Reply #13 on: December 12, 2011, 09:48:03 PM »
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Yes please but no rush. Pls email. I'm gunman tub wheel space too
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Deano

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« Reply #14 on: December 12, 2011, 10:00:07 PM »
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Do you have an email and I can send it as an attachment.

Cheers

Craig D
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fe350chev
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« Reply #15 on: December 12, 2011, 10:02:20 PM »
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Fe350chev@gmail.com. gunna not gunman bloody dumbphone
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Deano

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« Reply #16 on: December 12, 2011, 11:15:23 PM »
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Email Sent
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fe350chev
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« Reply #17 on: December 13, 2011, 08:12:32 AM »
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fe350chev@gmail.com I didn't get the email mate. Pls try again.
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Deano

Current Rides: 1958 "Black and White Taxi" FC special Sedan, 1957 FE special Sedan, BA Futura,  2015 VF Commodore, 1956 Austin Tipper Truck
fe350chev
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« Reply #18 on: December 18, 2011, 02:10:44 PM »
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Just while on this, if I was to leave normal etch primer, like the stuff you get over the shelf, for at least a week, would this have any effect on using epoxy primer or 2k primer over the top of it? Id think that it would be on as its not the base coat of the 2k that had the hardener? Basically an easier way of putting it is "does it matter what etch primer you use for 2k later on".
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Deano

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GMB-58FC
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« Reply #19 on: December 25, 2011, 11:44:46 PM »
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Just while on this, if I was to leave normal etch primer, like the stuff you get over the shelf, for at least a week, would this have any effect on using epoxy primer or 2k primer over the top of it? Id think that it would be on as its not the base coat of the 2k that had the hardener? Basically an easier way of putting it is "does it matter what etch primer you use for 2k later on".

As long as your prep work is done correctly (blocking back the etch primer, wax/grease remover wipe down) is done correctly you shouldn't have any dramas at all Dean.
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