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Author Topic: Fuel type  (Read 9622 times)
moetstockie
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« on: October 01, 2011, 05:32:05 AM »
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Right then lads, My mechanically smart mates + myself have got the FE wagon restored and registered yesterday here in Toowoomba. Looks great however the Fuel type is my question today. 91, 95 or 98 octane...Engine is a FB 138 grey motor, 60 thou rebore, unleaded conversion and 20-60 cam, single stromberg with extractors and 2" exhaust system, done by a proper workshop.     
Also what goes in the wheel well. All I have is the fuel tank and I'm not sure if the spare should sit on that or maybe it sits on the outer frame that the fuel tank is screwed to. Does someone have a Pic of the well so I get it right. Incidently the project has cost about 12g's and then we have a little more finishing to do.    Cheers Moe`t
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colt
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« Reply #1 on: October 01, 2011, 08:35:23 AM »
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Moe't, my car also has a warm grey, I have had the head shaved a bit. I generally use 95 octane but have used 91.

 My thoughts: get half a tank of 91, drive the car and see how it goes. Does it ping? If it does, you know you have to go try 95. Next time, try 95 on it's own and see how the car goes.

I also have a stock FJ which gets 91 and is happy on that. I really don't notice much difference between octane ratings.

The spare lays down on the tank. If you have widies and also your spare, you will have to put it somewhere else.

Colin.
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colt
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« Reply #2 on: October 01, 2011, 05:46:14 PM »
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G'day Pete,
Congrats on getting another old girl on the road.

Now, the fuel....
At 91 to 93, normal ULP is about the same octane rating as the "Standard" the greys originally ran on, and was good for up to about 8 to 1 compression.

Your FB motor originally had 7.25 to 1, and with a 60 thou overbore has about 7.4 to 1.
We can assume that the head was not drastically shaved, so the compression may be up to 7.5 or 7.6 to 1.

I would say that ULP is up to the job, but remember that you may need to retard the spark a little bit from standard as the higher compression burns the fuel more quickly, and can produce detonation (pinging or knocking).

If you go to the premium unleaded, which is 95 to 96 octane, you may not need to change the spark advance, as it burns slower.

It's entirely up to you which one you use, as both are suitable if the spark is set correctly.

There is no power advantage in the Premium ULP.

Keep away from the "ethanol added" fuels as the older style hoses, diaphragms, seals, etc may not cope with ethanol.

Cheers,
Gaz.
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fb delivery
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« Reply #3 on: October 03, 2011, 10:32:30 PM »
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Hi Pete
The wagon looks very Cool
congrars on getting her on the road

  Rob




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zulu
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« Reply #4 on: October 03, 2011, 11:40:03 PM »
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Good on you, great to see a wagon back on the road.... and an FE at that! 
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moetstockie
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« Reply #5 on: October 04, 2011, 02:23:30 PM »
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Thanks to Rob for putting the pics up, Ray the chief in the car (mechanical brainiac), Gaz (electrowiz), Nigel (colourmaster), Pete (brakeman), Keiran (panelman), Brut (Mr Trimmer), Repower engines and of course my FORUM FRIENDS. Just some tinkering now. First 60 mile trip successful.  Cheers Moe`t Grin 
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Harv
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« Reply #6 on: October 08, 2011, 08:32:56 PM »
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G'day OldGMHolden,

Looks like good advice. Two things caught my interest (not trying to be a smartarse... just interested to learn):
a) I think that the original Standard fuel was a lot lower in octane (about 86RON when FB/EKs were released). It's a fair whack lower than the 91RON ULP we run on now - doesn't change your advice for Moet though. I dug the 86 number out when I did some work on timing gears a few months back... trying to remember where I pulled it from.
b) Interested in the comment that the Premium ULP (98 RON) has no power advantage over 95. I thought that increasing fuel octane allowed you to screw a few more degrees of timing in prior to the onset of pinging. The extra couple of degrees gives you additional power. I also understand that there is a rule of diminishing return on the timing though - after increasing the timing so far, even with no pinging, a few extra degrees no longer gives you any additional power. Does this mean that for a warm grey, a 95 RON fuel will allow you to screw the timing out to the "point of diminishing return without pinging"? Has this been checked on a dyno?

Again, not trying to sound funny, just really curious to learn some more as there are a lot of guys out there who have fiddled with greys for a lot longer than me - appreciate your views.

Cheers,
Harv (the perpetually curious).
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Sheriff
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« Reply #7 on: October 08, 2011, 10:38:49 PM »
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Gday Moe't.   Congrats on the job you and your mates have done on your Wagon.  Seems you were at the All Holden Day last Sunday.  Missed seeing your car, you must have got there a bit late.   Would have been good to have it lined up with the rest of them.   This was the best roll up of FEs and FCs I have seen at this day.   Send me a PM next time you are going on a drive and I will go with you if possible.  Cheers,  Mike.
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OldGMHolden
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« Reply #8 on: October 10, 2011, 11:47:43 AM »
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G'day OldGMHolden,

Looks like good advice. Two things caught my interest (not trying to be a smartarse... just interested to learn):
a) I think that the original Standard fuel was a lot lower in octane (about 86RON when FB/EKs were released). It's a fair whack lower than the 91RON ULP we run on now - doesn't change your advice for Moet though. I dug the 86 number out when I did some work on timing gears a few months back... trying to remember where I pulled it from.
b) Interested in the comment that the Premium ULP (98 RON) has no power advantage over 95. I thought that increasing fuel octane allowed you to screw a few more degrees of timing in prior to the onset of pinging. The extra couple of degrees gives you additional power. I also understand that there is a rule of diminishing return on the timing though - after increasing the timing so far, even with no pinging, a few extra degrees no longer gives you any additional power. Does this mean that for a warm grey, a 95 RON fuel will allow you to screw the timing out to the "point of diminishing return without pinging"? Has this been checked on a dyno?

Again, not trying to sound funny, just really curious to learn some more as there are a lot of guys out there who have fiddled with greys for a lot longer than me - appreciate your views.

Cheers,
Harv (the perpetually curious).

Harv,
Thank you for your query.
The advice I offered to Moe't was intended to be specific to his application, but may be of benefit to other enthusiasts.
However, your comments deserve a reply.

Firstly, my (and many others') recollections of the RON rating of "Standard" fuel are subject to scrutiny, but that is hardly an issue.
I used the old trick of stating that figures were "about" this or "about" that so I couldn't be sued by nitpickers.
Try Googling the subject.


Secondly, it is well documented that there is no power advantage in a higher RON.
The higher rating is purely an indication of the anti-knock properties of the fuel.
If an advantage is gained by running the higher RON and adjustment of spark timing, then it well may be that the original settings were less than optimal.

Here are some links to help you understand.
http://fefcholden.org.au/techinfo/tech003.html
http://www.carsguide.com.au/news-and-reviews/car-news/fuel_substitution_futile
http://www.powerchipgroup.com/articles/PET0605.pdf
http://www.carsales.com.au/advice/2008/myth-busting-high-octane-fuel-will-make-a-car-faster-7513

There are many other technical reasons for pinging/knocking/detonation/pre-ignition, most of which I am aware of, but not qualified to elaborate on.
Once again, try Google, the Internet is a wonderful resource, but be prepared to do a lot of sorting chaff from hay.

Please don't regard this as any form of criticism or put-down, I'm only trying to clear up some common misconceptions.

Cheers,
Gaz
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Harv
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« Reply #9 on: October 10, 2011, 01:03:23 PM »
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Thanks Gaz,

I read through the links, and I from what I can see they all state the same: in simple terms,
"there is no power advantage in running higher octane fuel in a car if you do nothing other than fill the tank"
I agree with this for a grey motor.

I also think that you are right in saying "If an advantage is gained by running the higher RON and adjustment of spark timing, then it well may be that the original settings were less than optimal". If we take Moet's warm grey as an example, he could run 91 (or 93) RON, and increase ignition timing up to the point of pinging, then back it off a few degrees. This is probably the point of optimal power for that fuel.

What I am driving at is to understand whether there is an advantage over doing the above by changing to 98 RON just so you can screw a few more degrees timing in without pinging. The basic theory says that there is an advantage in doing this (more timing = more power). However, the diminishing return rule starts to apply - the extra timing that Moet could run on 93RON may have bought him an extra 10HP, but the timing increases he can make when changing to 98 RON may only gain him another 2HP.

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OldGMHolden
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« Reply #10 on: October 10, 2011, 04:02:13 PM »
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Thanks Gaz,

I read through the links, and I from what I can see they all state the same: in simple terms,
"there is no power advantage in running higher octane fuel in a car if you do nothing other than fill the tank"
I agree with this for a grey motor.

I also think that you are right in saying "If an advantage is gained by running the higher RON and adjustment of spark timing, then it well may be that the original settings were less than optimal". If we take Moet's warm grey as an example, he could run 91 (or 93) RON, and increase ignition timing up to the point of pinging, then back it off a few degrees. This is probably the point of optimal power for that fuel.

What I am driving at is to understand whether there is an advantage over doing the above by changing to 98 RON just so you can screw a few more degrees timing in without pinging. The basic theory says that there is an advantage in doing this (more timing = more power). However, the diminishing return rule starts to apply - the extra timing that Moet could run on 93RON may have bought him an extra 10HP, but the timing increases he can make when changing to 98 RON may only gain him another 2HP.

Harv,
The "basic theory" to which you refer is totally erroneous.
With the motor in question there can be no increase in power if the motor was previously properly tuned for maximum performance and in good condition.
If we can (and should) believe the chemists, there is no more "bang" associated with the higher octane fuel. There will be some increase through using other TYPES of fuel, but not if we restrict ourselves to pump petrol.
If we replace standard with super and advance the timing, all that will happen is that the mixture will start to burn earlier, it will burn slower and cooler, and the fire may go out at the same point as before, but with the same calorific value.
Where can we gain horsepower with that?

The point of advancing spark timing is to ensure the mix is well and truly alight at TDC.
The mix must burn at a rate adequate to push the piston down progressively, and theoretically should burn out just before exhaust valve opens.
Over-advancing will cause a major burn to occur before TDC, and will rob the process of power by trying to compress an already expanding burn.
If the burn finishes too early, the piston will try to pull down the already compressing gasses before before the exhaust valve has opened, using even more power needlessly.

Any serious attempts to increase horsepower are centred around two things:
Make a bigger bang, and make more bangs per minute.
Using fuel of the same calorific value, bigger bangs are made by any or all of these things:
1/  Increase the VOLUME of correct fuel/air mixture at point of ignition,
2/  Increase the speed at which the mixture is compressed,
3/  Increase the pressure of the mixture prior to ignition.

I won't go into the mechanics of the above as they don't relate to the thread.

I hope that I have made the above simple enough for the layman, without over-simplifying for those already aware, and I welcome comments from those more learned than myself, naturally.

Cheers,
Gaz
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Harv
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« Reply #11 on: October 10, 2011, 08:07:46 PM »
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Thanks Gaz, I learnt something today.  Smiley

Cheers,
Harv.
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moetstockie
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« Reply #12 on: October 11, 2011, 11:23:50 PM »
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Thanks all, The fuel science is a li'l baffling for me. So I've used some 91 and it appearred to run fine until I came up the Toowoomba range and put quite a load on the engine and it started to rattle (is this pinging ?) , then I changed down a gear...no problems all the way up in 2nd and no over heating as the radiator was cleaned (Roded out) and flow tested good. Thanks Colin, the spare is a 185/75/13 and just fits in the well.  So now I've put in shell 96 and it seems to run fine on that. So I guess I'll stick to that until I can get Gaz to listen to it. cheers Moe`t
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colt
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« Reply #13 on: October 12, 2011, 07:55:47 AM »
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That's pinging. Sounds to me you need to run the 95 as you said.

Colin.
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colt
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« Reply #14 on: October 12, 2011, 03:26:19 PM »
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why do they call it pinging when it doesnt ping... it rattles   Huh

Dont know if I'm right or wrong but I use regular unleaded for daily driving just because its cheaper, then fill up with higher octane if I'm doing a country run or towing the caravan
(202 with modified head)

 Cool Cool Cool
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