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Author Topic: My FC Rebuild  (Read 223036 times)
NES304
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« Reply #160 on: January 10, 2014, 06:07:41 PM »
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Nes, just stripped a couple of lengths of 5 core and was able to get 8 strands through the loom, so maybe the 7 core trailer wire could fit through.
Jim
Thanks Jim.
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ubeuty
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« Reply #161 on: January 10, 2014, 07:22:47 PM »
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Did you make the dash panel?
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fcwrangler
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« Reply #162 on: January 10, 2014, 10:49:24 PM »
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ubeuty, it's an old dash that I cut the centre out of and welded in a filler ready to do a bit of custom work on. I will post photos when it is all done.
Jim
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fcwrangler
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« Reply #163 on: January 23, 2014, 09:24:21 AM »
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Thanks to JB, I've made a cover plate and fitted it to the old test gig and with a bit of finess on the car, it should look great when all painted up.



Pete(FCRB26) is looking into making the box and cover for me so it will be a much neater end job.
Jim
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fcv85l
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« Reply #164 on: January 23, 2014, 11:40:58 PM »
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just some trivia on the door lock actuators,yes some do have 5 wires but only 2 are nessesary.2 are to be polarity changed to lock/unlock, the other 3 are used when the system still operates via a key barrel in the door, it uses 1 wire as an earth and the other 2 output a locking or unlocking status to a central lock module,if you are using remote keyless entry you only require 2 wires for operation,hope this helps.
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NES304
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« Reply #165 on: January 23, 2014, 11:46:46 PM »
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good to know  Wink
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fcwrangler
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« Reply #166 on: January 24, 2014, 08:36:38 AM »
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The system I have has the main actuator with seven wires and the other three with two. This is for a key activated entry, I also got a keyless entry system with it so all I need is the two wires for each door, the remote module has the rest.
Jim
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fcv85l
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« Reply #167 on: January 25, 2014, 11:00:43 AM »
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yep reMote only uses 2 per door Smiley
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NES304
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« Reply #168 on: January 25, 2014, 11:12:21 AM »
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Well I'm keeping them all so it does it off the barrel too!
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« Reply #169 on: January 26, 2014, 04:38:04 PM »
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thats cool,beware using the door key aswell as it becomes hard to turn the key as u are raising and lowering the actuator with the key barell
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FCRB26
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« Reply #170 on: February 12, 2014, 02:17:32 PM »
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cut and assembled these for you ten minute job done.

Will post when i get a chance.

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« Reply #171 on: February 12, 2014, 05:58:15 PM »
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THANKS,Pete another neat piece of work. No way I could have got them looking like that.
Jim
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Old_Mt_Isa_Boy
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« Reply #172 on: February 13, 2014, 08:29:55 PM »
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They look perfect Pete. Would love 2 of them.

Regards Wayne b
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DJ
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« Reply #173 on: February 13, 2014, 11:23:01 PM »
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Slick Pete. Look fwd to photos Jim.
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Dave
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« Reply #174 on: February 14, 2014, 05:27:59 AM »
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I ended up fitting 400watt woofers into my front ute doors .
So I too have been looking at ideas.
I think im going down the rubber grommet/boot path
My wifes turbo territory has  a beutiful slim offset rubber boot.
Im chasing one up to see how that goes.
I plan to dyna matt or speedliner inside the doors to make it sound better.
Its also reccesed into the door so the trimmer can hide any ugly modern speaker covers.
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fcwrangler
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JIM-- Gilead NSW


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« Reply #175 on: February 14, 2014, 07:11:48 AM »
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I looked at the rubber boots, but there is not enough room between the door and the pillar. If your only running speaker wire, maybe a piece of tube tacked to the bottom of the door hinge?
Jim
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« Reply #176 on: February 14, 2014, 03:47:03 PM »
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Wow , alot of thought has been put into that wiring.

I found there is a spot on the back of the top door hinge (front door) that you can run wire concealed and sneaky like with minor clearancing.... trailer core wire is great stuff.

Cheers

Ed


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in the shed
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JIM-- Gilead NSW


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« Reply #177 on: February 14, 2014, 04:13:40 PM »
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The five core wire I picked up is only thin gauge(1.5mm) my sparkle mate told me to run at least 3mm. He gave me a sample piece to try in the loom, but it will not go through with the shroud on so I took the shroud off and the wires go through no problem. The plan now is to run the whole 3mm 5 core through the body and strip it down to fit through the loom. All will be revealed when I get the boxes from Pete and fit them onto the car. I am also in the middle of doing the wiring for the inside of the doors, again makes it real easy to line up and fit everything when I don't have the door skins on.
Regards Jim
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pedro
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« Reply #178 on: February 16, 2014, 01:19:39 PM »
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Why not put a set of boobs on (headlight buckets in the side panel) like a few people have done now instead of putting the speakers in the doors, solves the whole problem with the wiring and the speakers getting wet, there's plenty of room under the guard and the panel isn't any use for anything else anyway.
   Pedro
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« Reply #179 on: February 16, 2014, 05:17:58 PM »
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Finally had some spare time this weekend, got the rear doors set up with the electric regulators and connected the switch to a battery and checked the movement. Had to make a couple of small adjustments and now the windows move up and down without a problem. Now it's a matter of doing the final wire loom in the doors and paint the insides and they will be ready for the skins to go on.
Pedro, if your comment about the boobs was directed at me, they are already in place.
Jim
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