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Author Topic: My FC Rebuild  (Read 223169 times)
NES304
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« Reply #80 on: December 04, 2013, 07:47:38 PM »
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Hope the op doesn't hurt Xmas too much mate. What motors are you using for power windows?
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fcwrangler
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JIM-- Gilead NSW


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« Reply #81 on: December 04, 2013, 08:14:17 PM »
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Not  allowed to drive for two weeks,no squatting,straining or lifting over 5kg. What a pain.
The winders are out of a Daewoo Nubira  sedan, changed them left to right to miss the switch on the rears but the fronts cleared. A bit of tweaking and flattened them out made for a good fit.
Jim
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NES304
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« Reply #82 on: December 04, 2013, 09:15:57 PM »
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Ahh yes I did look at those. Similar to the au falcon. I found the motor still got in the way on mine so I opted for the sonata where both cables went to the base of the shaft.  Keen for a look at yours though
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Crumpsnr
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« Reply #83 on: December 04, 2013, 11:54:04 PM »
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Sorry to hear of your health issues Jim, hope you bounce back quickly. All the best, Martyn.
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« Reply #84 on: December 05, 2013, 07:25:29 AM »
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Thanks Martyn, one of the good things to come from the fires, found a hernia, bad thing as I said, no work on the car for 4-6 weeks. Good to meet you at the show last week.
Jim
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« Reply #85 on: December 09, 2013, 04:05:25 PM »
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update photos fo the body











photos of the electric winders in rh front & rear doors









the mounting plates for the motors are temp.tech srews, they will be nut & bolted in and the inner surfaces will be painted with rust proof paint.

Regards Jim
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« Reply #86 on: December 09, 2013, 04:10:37 PM »
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I forgot to mention the glass channels are rusted so new ones will be made with the motor mounting plates welded in position. The good thing about having the skins of allows easy access to the door for all the setup. Also fitting central locking as can be seen in the front door photo.
Jim
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« Reply #87 on: December 09, 2013, 04:27:20 PM »
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How bloody easy is it without the skins!!
(Says me cursing at my doors)
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NES304
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« Reply #88 on: December 09, 2013, 07:07:24 PM »
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How are you running the wiring though the doors into the car? Rear door has me stumped.
I finally wired my switch in to the front passenger door and wasn't that fun???
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« Reply #89 on: December 09, 2013, 07:38:49 PM »
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picked these up from bluewiremotorsport, male/female contacts that will fit in the 'A' & 'B' pillars and will be conected via 5 core trailer wire run through the kick panels and the sills via tubes put in place while doing the sills (see p5). fronts shouldn't be a problem but not sure now about the rears,might have to come up with another solution.


Jim
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Crumpsnr
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« Reply #90 on: December 09, 2013, 08:16:19 PM »
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Hi Jim. I note we're doing similar things. I can see you're using the switches mounted in place of the original winders. I'm doing the same but modifying the original winder mechanism. I'm also using a pin contact switch for the rear doors. Means the windows won't wind with the door open, but I can live with that. All the best, Martyn
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« Reply #91 on: December 09, 2013, 08:58:49 PM »
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Martyn, I'm also looking at some sliding covers that bolt onto the pillar and slide into the door, if they come short enough they would allow for constant power.
Jim
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« Reply #92 on: December 09, 2013, 11:21:30 PM »
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Hi Jim,  I think I 've seen those items. I'll be keen to see how you go. Happy to poach good ideas from others  Grin Grin
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NES304
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« Reply #93 on: December 10, 2013, 07:05:54 PM »
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Hopefully it will take around a year to complete as it needs new sills and some other minor repairs,
Roll Eyes
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« Reply #94 on: December 10, 2013, 10:38:42 PM »
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Nes, you know how it is!!, things don't look to bad when you start but as you get further into it you find out what nasties are lurking and all of a sudden two and a half years have passed by.Not really a problem as I don't want to finish the car and then have it sit around waiting on other stuff and get it damaged, so taking the time to make sure I get done all that I can and when poor stinky finally gets the repo headlining in it will all go back together in one go rather than doing some things twice.
Jim
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« Reply #95 on: December 11, 2013, 07:23:27 AM »
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 Cry Cry Cry Cry Unfortunately I do
Nez
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Ol_Girl_58
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« Reply #96 on: December 11, 2013, 09:34:27 AM »
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Cry Cry Cry Cry Unfortunately I do
Nez

Amen to that! An engine swap for me turned into a rebuild  Undecided Undecided Undecided
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« Reply #97 on: December 11, 2013, 09:47:30 AM »
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I am wondering if you have allowed for getting the glass back out when you make the final mounts for those mechanisms . Just asking 'cause I made that mistake once and had to remake brackets so they could be removed . Enjoying the post so keep them coming .Cheers Haydn
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« Reply #98 on: December 11, 2013, 04:55:55 PM »
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Sure have Haydn, look at the rear door photos you can see the plate has nutsirts  in place so the whole lot can be unbolted and removed if needed. I did have the front door done a bit different but then it dawned on me that I wouldn't be able to remove the glass hence the large plate to hold the motor in place is now removable.
Jim
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« Reply #99 on: December 11, 2013, 06:25:11 PM »
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Some sort of spring loaded striker plate contacts would be a solution if anyone knows of something .Plenty of people with the same problem because of the doors to pillar gap and the hinges pivoting inside the pillars  . Cheers Haydn
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