My FC Rebuild

[fcwrangler]

Don't thank me Deano, I only asked the question. Glenn is the one who desirves the credit. I looked back on his site and saw how good the ute was, so it was an obvious choice to see if Glenn could take some shots for me. I was only hoping for a few shots of the plate so I could work out what needed to be done, but to his credit Glenn has gone way above and for that I am very glad as now I can measure up and make sure everything is in the correct place.
Glenn, you are a legend mate, as I said, this is more than what I was after. It is guys like you that make this a great forum to be in and the info and insights that are expressed by all are very benificial not only to me but to others in the same boat. Being unsure of what to do at some stage can really put a dampener on what is expected to be an easy resto.

Many thanks again, Jim

[FC-V8]

No worries Jim, Any time.

If you need anything else dont hesitate, only to happy to help!

Cheers Glenn

[fcwrangler]

Well it's been a while, after three or four goes at doing the rust panels around the front sill sections I think I have finally got them. I thought by using a cut down guard to mock up the shape where the outer sill bolts through would help, how wrong I was. After a couple of weeks of things not going to plan, I finally put a full guard on by putting the top bolt and the two pillar bolts in this gave me the right angle and shape. Now all I have to do is weld it all up and then put it back onto the car. Note to anyone who is going to try this type of repair, do'nt do it upside down as I did. I will take some shots of the new sections before and after they go on the car and post them asap.
Jim

[fe350chev]

Keep up the good work mate 

[Stash]

All the best with it Jim

[ardiesse]

Jim,

A few thoughts here, but I'll pm you with all the gory details -

The front sill is 42.5 mm thick where the subframe bolt goes through the body.  The front subframe bolt goes in parallel with the No. 1 body crossmember, and the faces of the inner sill and the cowl member are perpendicular to the No. 1 body crossmember.

You've removed the entire front floor and No. 1 body crossmember.  That's good from an access point of view, but makes establishing a reference point for the position of the subframe bolt a bit more difficult.

But I'll scan my inner sill secion pattern and send it to you.

Rob

[ardiesse]

Serves me right for trying to recall numbers from memory -

42.5 mm is WRONG.  Sorry.

Glenn,

Would you be able to measure the thickness of the sill where the front subframe bolt goes through?

Rob

[fcwrangler]

It's been a while due to work and home life, but I've been chipping away as time allows and I have now finished the inner and outer front sill and mounting plates for the front end.As I've said before, my heart fell through my bum when I found out how much rust was there, but now it's almost done. I have also cleaned up around the front floor area and test fitted the floor pan and all looks good, photos of the progress as follows.

rusted area's at front sills made up blocks to fit inside mounting block, welded and braced so they do'nt move.











then set about making the inner and outer plates and covers



fitted the subframe arms and guards to make sure everything was in place and welded it all up.











and then test fitted the floor pan, had to notch the back where the seat brackets are to get the pan to fit as the rear floor goes over the front.





Next step is to finish cleaning off the old sills, then fit and weld in the front floor and rear rust sections.

Untill next time, Jim

[Old_Mt_Isa_Boy]

Thats some serious work there Jim. It does get difficult to get time. Hope it goes to plan.

Rgds

Wayne b

[Stash]

lot work being done Jim. Good to see it moving forward.

John

[fe350chev]

That's plenty man. I better get out there tomorrow. I have the week off.

[fcwrangler]

Update time again, I've been working on the floor and the firewall to get them to match up fully( bit of a bend on the righ side where the motor sits from the front ender it had). solution was to cut another section of the fire wall out of the rusted wagon and transplant it onto the sedan. I have also been to see my panel beater mate who recons he can bend up and press the inner sills for me. He said a week or two as he is quite busy, I'll let you know how they come out and post some photos when I get them back. If the price is right I'm thinking of asking him if he would be interested in bending up some more for those who need them. I'll post the outcome later on.
Regards Jim

[Stewy]

Thanks for thinking of us Jim, progress looks good so far,
keep up the good work.

Cheers Stewy   

[fe350chev]

Yes thanks Jim. I am doing similar, using rares on 1 car perhaps, the one that has best front section then my fabricator mate will do custom for the other one that has rooted inners and outers and no front left, so it will be interesting which turns out easier. Let us know how you go.

[hrpremier]

Jim. 

Can you take some pics over the weekend of the mounts on rotisserie up against the firewall.  I have been out in the shed tonight putting finishing touches on my home made rotisserie.  Got the rear sorted, using the bumper mount brackets, and wanted to mount the front into the bonnet hinge locations but unsure on how to design it due to being an uneven surface.  Much appreciated

Jase

[fe350chev]

It depends if ya want it to flip completely upside down or just on its side. I made mine so I can put a bar through and lift the thing up with my excavator  but many have 1 piece across.



I have an adjustable sleeve setup so i can make it higher but dont want to do that until it is transported so it has lower centre of gravity as I live in woop woop and bad roads.

[fcwrangler]

Picked up the inner sill panels yesterday, real happy with how they turned out. I asked if he would be interested in doing more sets for the forum and he said no problems. Cost was $160 each, Rares flat sills are $57 approx. so not bad I think for all the time spent on doing the pressings for the holes. Mine have been made to suite my needs but they will add the extra length at the front for the mounting plate area.
Regards Jim





In his words they are not exact, but they will look the part under the car. If you look under all you will notice is the pressings and they will look original

[DN2168]

Very flash indeed 

Dean.

[collecta]

 They do look good!!!!!!!!!

    Scott

[fcwrangler]

It's been a while, but I have finally had a chance to do some more on the old girl. I've welded in the front floor pan which took most of the day, by the time it was positioned in the right spot, then tech screwed down to hold it in place and then drilled and welded and remove the screws and weld the holes (glad I only had to do this once). I will refit the front end so I can postition the front support member srew and weld it and that will be the front floor done. Next step is the rust sections for the rear floor then the inner and outer sills.