253 308 fitting distance to firewall query

[perth_ute]

Hello All, I am getting ideas for fitting the 253. I have it in but no mounts until I figure this out. It seams there is more space on the drivers side around the steering column than on the passengers side where the lip is. What have people done. Do I cut the lip back on the passenger side to move the engine back further? What distance is expected from the water pump pully to the radiator? Any pics and measurements would be great.

[perth_ute]

[fastjbav6]

I remember reading on engine conversions by CRS and it stated the firewall lip on the left side has to be hammered down to clear the cylinder head with Holden V8's but no firewall modification if fitting Chevy V8's.

Regards Seb

[FCV08]

I am currently fitting a 304 injected into my FC Sedan.

It is under the heading http://fefcholden.org.au/forum/index.php/topic,16648.msg119895.html#msg119895

There is about 40mm difference between the driver's side bank and the pax bank and the firewall. I have removed the lip to give me an extra 10 -15mm. I have manufactured my own engine brackets as well.

I have also moved the radiator in front of the support panel for a little extra room. The VB Radiator is recessed into the front subframe.

Reards

Craig D

[perth_ute]

I have mine currently sitting about the same on passenger to firewall but not enough distance to the radiator to fit thermo fans etc. I am going to cut the poor girl tonight. Remove the lip on the drivers side around the steering column and 30mm in on the passenger side.

[FCV08]

Certainly not an expert on this but talk to your engineer if you are modifying the firewall.

Cheers

Craig

[Ed]

I recessed the passenger side firewall to sit the engine back further... the down side is access to the dizzy clamp bolt... just made a special tool to nip it up.

go for as much space as you can for fan clearance to radiator... I ran an engine fan, as I wanted to keep cool in Sydney peak hour during summer, in addition to twin thermos on a thermo switch.

here is a setup shot you can see the distance between the rad and engine.


an even older shot, showing the firewall recess..


a shot showing some perspective of how it was sat.



keep in mind the engine mount plates were redrilled to allow the engine to sit lower than a std CRS setup.... alot of other V8 conversions sit up really tall.. taller than this.

Cheers

Ed

[Ed]

the 253... still got this engine, picked it up last weekend for my rodeo ute.

[JB]

Funnily enough Ed mine looks very similar to yours! And I agree with Ed, better to do the hard yards early to give yourself enough room for a cooling option later on if needed. I have plenty of pics in 365 days if you want to go down this road.

Cheers
JB

[perth_ute]

Ok great pics thankyou everyone, will post what happens tonight after my day job. I thought someone would have noticed the cross member...

[GM]

I recessed both sides and ended up with good clearance for a fixed fan, but as Ed stated the clamp bolt is a tight squeeze. Could get to it with a flat ratchet spanner

[brett_f]

Glen and Ed and Perth-ute,
Just a thought  but you could have cut a slot in the rear fire wall at the postion of the dissy bolt. The same size as the grommet for the original wiring above the master cylinders and then use a blanked off gommet at the dissy area. Simply remove the grommet inside the vehicle to use a tool on the bolt and then replace the grommet when your finished. Something for you to think about perth ute.
regards Brett

[Ed]

Good idea Brett, thought about that once when I was doing the timing... lol

definitely for the next conversion.

Cheers

Ed

[Ed]

what cross member is that?

[perth_ute]

guy in perth makes it with power steering. Will update my project. Seams I will need to move the engine further back because of the radiator and themos. My advise to anyone doing the same is to take you time and do not rush welding in the mounts. Line everything up and ensure there is room for error.