FC Holden Sedan "Black and White Taxi Service Co-Operative" restoration

[FCRB26]

Hes a cocky farmer ED so im guessing melasis....

[NES304]

what de-rusting solution do you use? a mild acid of some sort? 

your parts are really clean... interesting stuff going on.

Cheers

Ed

Molasses is great, use 10:1 ratio and leave in a hot shed or in the sun to speed up the process. When you remove it, it'll rust really quick so whack on the primer!

[hsv-001]

When using molasses it is best to remove your item at regular intervals as a sugary coating can build up on the surface and slow or stop the process.If a large amount of rust is to be removed then remove the item weekly and rinse it with water and put it back in.

[fe350chev]

I am no bloody farmer, don't insult me like that, how boring  

I am also not a chemist, I have just got small items that are soiled or rusted and tried many formulas in small containers to see which ones are best for what. It's not really rocket science at all. I prefer to use things that I can use around my acreage rather than acids. Why not kill weeds or fertilise plants after! If you tell the missus this, she will also encourage you to de rust and everyone is a winner (if she likes the gardening).

I use a combination of different things depending on what I think it needs, I have a good Electrolysis mix I use which requires no gloves and its a bit different to other methods, then I have my potato solutions and pastes, then I also have my boonie paint stripper which also requires no gloves.

By far the best method I have found to remove rust is electrolysis with salt and oxygenates. Potassium Hydroxide would be my next step up the chain, using cheap Scott's brand fertiliser (starter mix better cos disolves easier) with the highest concentrate of Potassium Phosphate you can find on the label (you don't need a lot but if u use a lot wear gloves and face mask), I usually use some white vinegar (not much) in this mix then it also eats rust slowly and gently and I leave it in as long as the item needs (always depends on soiling). Don't do this inside anywhere always outside cos this shit gives off shitty fumes. ALWAYS add salt to any rust solution as it helps acids chemically lift the scale (even alkalines). Molasses is also ok, but as HSV rightly pointed out, ppl often make the mistake of putting too much in or not mixing it in properly, it works better with air agitation and as hoon said warm works faster. For people who don't have enough room for tanks in the city, I have tried (years ago when I was in a unit and still do sometimes) making up fairly strong natural mixes such as the alkaline's I have already mentioned (except vinegar which is acid) and making up a flour batter type mixture, but use baking soda and salts more vigourously with them in the mix and pasting it on with a paint brush. Then wrap items with cling wrap cos it will stop it evaporating or spray with that "spray cook" shit to keep the moisture in. You should always pour boiling water over anything prior to cleaning if you are decreasing cos this loosens it, best with a kettle.  A good mix for acids that occur naturally in home products seem to be a cup of vinegar (per 2 lites of water), some concentrated citrus or lemon (shower power works great cos its a citrus cleaner), add a bit of salt and a few tablespoons of the cheapest washing powder you can find. Have u ever noticed when you use rust converters and shit, that the quick on the edges of your fingers gets a slight sting, well if you use a blender to make up a potato syrup, after you pour it out, it will feel the same on your fingers. This is the Oxalic acid  , an active ingredient in rust converters. So as with any of my solutions, I always add a few potatoes.

Also, when you are having tea and doing active projects, always tell the missus that you are really hungry and want extra mashed potatoes. Then offer to scape all the plates off because don't waste your mashed potatoes. Put them in a mixing bowl, add more salt, white vinegar (half cup per mixing bowl full) and some shower power, then add a bit of water so it will still be a thick enough mixture like say a mortar mix. Grab anything such as manifolds or anything hollow or hard to reach areas like in your manifold crevices (don't use on alloy), pour a kettle full of hot water into the runners etc then pack it with ya potato mix. Leave it there as long as you like, usually I just leave it for a week. Freeze your leftover mix and reuse again if there are big layers of rust the following week)   Bring ya manifolds or tube things in and give them a wash in washing powder and then rinse them in a tablespoon of baking soda and you will have the cleanest runners.

[fe350chev]

Although I haven't used it so far in this build (cos I am not in a rush), we used to use caustic (sodium hydroxide) in the bath at International trucks when I was doing my apprenticeship, to remove oil and diesel from stuff, but that's not an acid. It does bugger all for rust though. That's the problem with hot tanks in engine shops, they don't do much except clean (without electrolysis). Drain cleaners usually are readily available as a substitute but you should always add slowly to water, not the other way around and always wear a face mast so u don't end up getting skin burns.

Today I begrudgingly pulled out my sand baster and made a big mess using that, this was due to the stupid accelerator and the circles in the head near the guides being full of crap. I had some other things to do though not related to the build that I didn't want to pull off the excavator bucket. I really use sand blasting last because its quite a harsh finish and I just think it rapes more delicate surfaces. If I decide to resore, I want to restore thinking I am leaving enough metal for the next poor idiot who does the same  

[fe350chev]

Molasses is great, use 10:1 ratio and leave in a hot shed or in the sun to speed up the process. When you remove it, it'll rust really quick so whack on the primer!

Sorry, it was you who said about heating it up. Ive found that 8 to 1 is better in colder months.

[fe350chev]

When using molasses it is best to remove your item at regular intervals as a sugary coating can build up on the surface and slow or stop the process.If a large amount of rust is to be removed then remove the item weekly and rinse it with water and put it back in.

Mixing in some epsom salts will assist with this as its helps the molecules and hydrogen lift for the surface, as will a few tablespoons per 10 litres of water, also a cheap fish pond air circulator at the bottom of the mix works wonders for a bit of agitation.

[fe350chev]

Well while on the subject here are some things I have been doing. Today I did some blasting behind the chrome bits in hard to reach places and freed up a ton of carbon from the flaps in the manifolds, I also gave that accelerator a blast, not much left, is it normal for the surfaces to nearly be worn right through?

The bumpers are not much chop. I think I will bend up some anodes, dig 4 trenches with the excavator, line them with plastic and electrolysis these bastards with some pure sulphuric acid. That will fix these bastards. They are some of the worst I have seen, dings and rust everywhere.

Ill find a spot in the paddock where there is gunna be no sheep or animals and get the trenches lines with casting type sand, mux in a bit of mortar, press in the bumpers to make a mould and later this will my boonie electrolysis tanks for my plating 

Then at the end if my rooster doesnt stop crowing at bloody 4.30am, he might be getting a dip in something too  (just kidding....sorta). It's a pity that roosters have no useful ingredients for doing a resto.....perhaps Pete could use him as an alarm clock, he gets up at 4.30 

[fe350chev]

Getting sick of this rusty stuff

[fe350chev]

OK, last night before bed I whipped up a batter mix with vinegar, but didnt have any mashed potato left to mix in (always use ya mash in anything remember). So cos I was up at 6 getting it off it didnt have much time, usually you would double the time with interior parts like this because the paint isnt weathered as much and people dont polish their dashes with grit like the outside so often paint is thicker. I also forgot to say that by adding half a cup of shower power will. If you scour the surface this helps with penetration.

The reason I am showing you this guys is because I like to be able to be inside, especially when cold, get my slurry out of the freezer, and while the adds come on tv you just paste up a few parts, no smell, no chemicals, just easy peasy and you can still be with the kids and stuff and its effortless. So as with any paint stripper, it will usually do a layer of paint at a time and the old paints they used to use are much harder to remove than modern paints.

Here tis after not that many hours really. These methods are great to do through the week for guys that work to keep the project moving and do a few layer each night. If u dont think about it or care, it is so mild that you can leave it 2 days, but generally 24 hours removes layers easily.




The black is the rust converting after only a short time and then I finally remembered I should take a pic to show u I suppose.



You can double or triple the strength but i dont see why its necessary really, and I know people will say there are quicker ways but thats not the point of these posts.

[Ed]

Deano,

I'm impressed by your "bush chemistry"... Please don't take the term as an insult, rather with respect.

You've made up some great pH neutral stripper and cleaners from everyday household items... I think you've missed your calling as an industrial chemist!

thanks for sharing that info.. I'm enjoying it 

Just yesterday I was enquiring about a parts cleaner which uses "safe" solvents.. looks like the best stuff is just under our noses.  I really like how you use natural food acids.

Cheers

Ed

[FCRB26]

I Hope i never get on the wrong side of deano he might smear my car in mash potato mix

[fe350chev]

Pete there will be more boonie but practical methods coming up next week. But the shed is my priority atm. My dad has been a French polisher all his life so that helps with this stuff. Just a note on parts washers, the idiots sell tin ones to u then use citricacid solutions which rust them out. If you gunna be using citric, which is basically shower power, get a plastic one with plastic fittings. I was thinking of doing a paddock pit for trucks etc, I should do this and dig it a bit bigger and put the car in it, lift her in with the excavator and do electrolysis. Hire a jetfire blower to dry her off after rinsing with soap and bicarb then use a bloody airless roof paint spray gun to douse her in undercoat.

[fe350chev]

Ok ED, here is another setup for the budget conscious. You just buy long this pots plant pots of different shapes with baskets at the bottom. The plastic drain thingy's help separate anodes/cathodes etc from touching.

[fe350chev]

Forgot to say, notice I have an anode in the hard to reach spots, well if u think of the anodes as magnets, put them opposing where the most rust is. I can put them suspended down the holes of the manifold to do inside as well, all u do is silastic the tips of the anodes, leave the bottom say 2 cm exposed and slide a tube over the top of the round pipe anode and it will get right inside things, but I prefer packing it with my mashed potatoes cos if it shorts out u can melt the wires and start a fire thats all (if your fuse is rated too high). I am not going to tell anyone how to use chemicals or do electroplating itself cos I think that it would be irresponsible as I have no means of knowing who I am talking to and how old they are so pls dont ask me about this as I won't say it online. Same as wiring your house, I would not give advice as to how to wire a house for instance. But since these are all at home I figure I can.

[fe350chev]

Feel like I am going to kill over, have been so busy, but slab is down, have been cleaning stuff still and organising stuff for the new shed. BUT bloody weather is going to be severe so look like it will be longer for the concrete to cure, cold wet 

Anywho its a bloody tough slab. at one end the trenches are 500mm wide, and its 500mm all way round deep and one at the other end across cos thats where a future hoist could go and my truck will be fixed in there.

Ill put electrolysis through that manifold over night to show the result, I pre soaked it in shower power first, basically the middle was full of carbon and weird smelling crap.

[NES304]

Yeah Slab down!!

Cool paint removal stuff mate

[Gary C]

Slab looks great, there are also two good reasons you should appreciate the "cold and wet" after you pour your slab.
1)  it slows the chemical reaction as your concrete goes off which in turn reduces the heat created by that reaction which in turn adds to the final compressive strength.
2) easy to find "bird baths" for everyone to see

Gary

[Ed]

Thanks again for taking the time Deano to show us your techniques in electrolysis.

much appreciated, and very interesting.

Nice slab you have there.. so much space!

Cheers

Ed

[fe350chev]

Well, u know how it is, you start off just cleaning up something here and there, (idea was to de-burr the casting inlets only) then ya just go psycho and spend far too much time getting carried away and then before you know it there is no turning back! It looks pretty good though I must admit, a fair way to go to get it perfect and anodized. Already done a lot of flanger and filing work. I might try to go a bit greyer dan dis cool drinky bottle and use finer sparkly bits and it should look shit hot. The sparkly bits are not so dramatic to the naked eye.