Setting Up the Clutch

[GOA350]

I am having trouble getting my clutch to work. I have bled the hydraulics and when i push on the clutch pedal there is movment at the slave cylinder, but the clutch fork doesn't seem to push the thrust bearing far enough to release the clutch plate. I stuffed around with it for hours last night, and i am really loosing patience with it. Has anyone got any ideas?
Cheers Scotty

[stapla]

Have you tried adjusting the rod at the gearbox end ?  It should be adjusted to take up nearly all the slack with just a little play.

How much throw movement are you getting ?  If the arm doesn't move much, then perhaps have a look at the master cylinder too.

Cheers
Peter.
 

[crossply]

Have you tried adjusting your pedal height, master cylinder free-travel and pedal spring adjustment?
It's a bit of a pain to do. I made up a block of wood the right size to jam under the dash. then you get someone to press the pedal while you tighten up the bolts.
I think from memory, there are instructions on how to do this in the workshop manual.
Hope this helps,
Paul

[GOA350]

Thanks Paul,
                i have gone back to the book and it does say to do this, and i might have to yet, but i didn't think it would be necessary because it has worked before, but now i have a different clutch in it, it may be necessary. I may need to go back to basics and start again.

[ACE]

Check the clutch fork isn't bent or broken.
ACE 

[wilburwilde]

+1 for what ACE said. I recently had to replace mine as the fork fingers were cracked thus not actuating thew thrust bearing properly.

Pictures available on this thread:
http://fefcholden.org.au/forum/index.php/topic,16102.msg96622.html#msg96622

Good luck!

Will

[gp]

Scott, it sounds to me as though you still have a bleeding problem (presuming the adjustments are all correct). If you've had the Master cylinder apart (or a new master cylinder), they're sometimes quite difficult to get them to bleed properly.

You may have to unscrew the pipe from the master cylinder & hold your finger over the opening in the end of the cylinder while an assistant pulls the pedal back up from the floor. This should suck the fluid from the reservoir down into the cylinder.

Be VERY careful that you don't squirt brake fluid all over the engine bay! 

Hope this helps?

Cheers,

Graham

[Philby]

Hey Scotty,

All good advice above!! Did you replace the spigot bush (small brass bush in the back end of the crankshaft)?

If so, make sure you pushed the new bush into the crankshaft far enough.  I did this once, hours of trouble shooting until the guys on this forum helped out.

Here is a picture of what I did wrong. 





By not pushing the bush far enough in, the driveshaft was constantly been turned even when the clutch was engaged.

Good luck,

Phil



Here is a link to the full thred: http://fefcholden.org.au/forum/index.php/topic,8550.0.html

[Gary C]

Scotty, I know this is backward ,, but I had a similar problem when I tried putting my(engine bay refurb) fc into gear  for the first time after engine/gearbox removal . Everything was fine as far as clutch fork travel etc but wouldn't disengage to select any gear.I made the fatal mistake of bleeding the clutch into a container (similar to the sock, "no mess no fuss") then recycled the fluid to the master cylinder. Sometimes its the silliest of things that give you the biggest of shits. Hope its something silly,
Gary C

[GOA350]

All sorted. It was a bent clutch fork. Gear box out, fork changed, gearbox back in, everything back together, and guess what......... it works. Took it for its first drive in 30 years at about 9pm last night.
 Cheers Scotty

[jack_fc]

   10 out of 10 for the dynamic "Diagnostic Duo" - ACE and wilburwilde!

[wilburwilde]

Just glad I could return the favour others have shown to me here.

Will