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dwa
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« on: January 06, 2010, 12:27:26 PM » |
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Hello,
I am based in Perth and need some advise on my new project. I will post project in real cars shortly. I am currently running a red 202 and 3 speed floor manual with HR front front end and disc brakes. I am now planning to fit a Holden 253 with supra 5 speed manual and would like thoughts on the cross member.
I have seen the rod shop cross member to suit on exchange and wondering if that is the best choice. It is around $650 but will need to pay freight there and back.
Any experiences out there would be great to here.
David.
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Ed
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« Reply #1 on: January 06, 2010, 12:58:00 PM » |
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Hey David,
Since you need to strengthen the car using a 3/4 chassis, the easiest method is to use the rails to hang a new cross member.
Use the original Toyota mount and then fab up a crossmember to suit.
A larger trans tunnel is required and when I put a 253/celica combo in I also moved the shifter position forward.
Cheers
Ed
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in the shed
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dwa
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« Reply #2 on: January 06, 2010, 01:07:07 PM » |
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The chassis has already been strengthen and the gearbox section modified so that is ok. Not sure what you mean by using the Toyota mount as it is all Holden parts. Trans tunnel has already been done also. What did you use for the cross member and sump?
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Ed
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« Reply #3 on: January 06, 2010, 01:14:06 PM » |
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Hey dwa,
Sorry I thought you were referring to gearbox crossmember.
my set up was HR crossmember (hadfield) with torana rack and pinion.
HQ sump works well.
Cheers
Ed
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in the shed
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Ed
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« Reply #4 on: January 06, 2010, 01:16:39 PM » |
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Your HR crossmember would be fine with some mods, although the Hadfield unit has been plated across the bottom for additional strength and a recess cut out to help with sump clearance.
you could weld on rack mounts of your choice and then be done.
not sure if steering rod would foul on the sump using a rear mount commodore rack. this could be overcome pretty easily by small sump mods tho where necessary.
Cheers
Ed
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dwa
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« Reply #5 on: January 06, 2010, 02:35:37 PM » |
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yeah was thinking of getting the cross member and if funds permit getting lx-uc or vk power steering. Basically use funds to pay for steering instead of sump mods. Custom sump is around 600. Good point about the gearbox. I have already had a cross member for the gearbox made, so will need to make a custom supra gearbox mount. Will also be interesting to see where the selector comes through the tunnel as I hate cutting her too much.
So would you go the rodshop cross member with steering rack mounts?
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Ed
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« Reply #6 on: January 06, 2010, 02:48:53 PM » |
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David,
Best bet is to get handy with a welder for this type of conversion or know somebody who can spend some time with you doing stuff. Loads of brackets etc to be made etc.
600 seems expensive for some basic sump mods?
supra gearbox mount shouldn't need to be custom? I used a std toyota rubber mount from gearbox to x-member from memory, altho it may have been part of a kit as I took the lot out of an HQ ute.
you will need to decide whether you want front or rear mount steering, both have pros and cons however more recent conversions seem to favour rear mount racks (commodore).
For ease you should probably buy a pre-fab x member with mounts, as the hard work has all been thought out and they do work well.
Personally if/when I do this again, I will fab my own from scratch.
looking fwd to seeing another build kick off.
Cheers
Ed
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dwa
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« Reply #7 on: January 06, 2010, 03:56:41 PM » |
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ok cheers will need to read up on the front verses rear steering rack and then move forward with x member. The engine and supra gearbox are from a hq ute and I do have the gearbox mount so will need to pay around. My neighbour is a boiler maker by trade so will need to soften him up. He is currently building a ht monaro with LS1 but for me the licencing department will not allow an engine greater than (under 1.1 ton by 4) thus 1090kg x 4 = 4360cc. So thinking of fitting 253 as it is holden and will sound like a cruizer.
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gwuthie
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« Reply #8 on: January 07, 2010, 03:42:30 AM » |
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hey dwa, what area you in?
Steering- rear mount is best for akerman angles
For good bump steer - the point at where the tie rods pivot from the main part of the rack need to line up with the lower control arm pivot. (make sense??) ie. the distance between the left and right lower control arm bushes is approx 47cm (from memory,??) SO, the sockets the the tie rod arms come off of need to be 47cm apart also!
I'm yet to find a p/s rack the is narrow enough to fit. Com is too wide that's why 'everyone' uses manual rack and narrows.
If none of that makes sense do some searching on this site. I've asked lots of questions and so have lots of others. the members have been great help.
I'll be looking for your pics
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Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius
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« Reply #9 on: January 07, 2010, 08:30:30 AM » |
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LH/LX Torana front ends are another option, I know of 2 EKs with V8 conversions and these front ends.
Old Oldens in SA apparently does the conversion or you might be able to find someone local to do it, there is a build-up thread by V8EK4US on the FB/EK forum with some details.
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mcl1959
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« Reply #10 on: January 07, 2010, 11:33:29 AM » |
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Brett f also has build photos of his FC with Torana front end
Ken
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dwa
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« Reply #11 on: January 07, 2010, 06:49:32 PM » |
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great info about the rack. so should go for a rear rack. I have good contacts at australian power steering who are able to make the rack to size but mate told me not to fit power steering otherwise wife will want to use it...Will read up on other projects.
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dwa
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« Reply #12 on: January 07, 2010, 06:56:54 PM » |
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i am based in perth wa. currently have hr front disc but thinking of hq disc so not sure if that changes the bump steer issue. Anyway getting off the orginal topic of the cross member. Rod shop is closed until next week so will give them a buzz and report back their point of view for discussion.
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JB
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« Reply #13 on: January 07, 2010, 09:06:54 PM » |
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It all comes down to dollars...
I had a rodshop rack in my van and was very very disappointed with it.
For the second round in the ute I have a V6 conversions front end designed for not modifying the sump, gives power steering and VT brakes and rotors. Not much change from 5K, but by the time you use a rodshop front end and buy the adaptors for the brakes and then get them to fit I think the van ended up costing around 4K.
Cheers
JB
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Phone +64 223509263
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gwuthie
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« Reply #14 on: January 08, 2010, 12:06:38 AM » |
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dwa,
would love to know more about getting a p/s rack that fits.
I'm also in Perth.
gwuthie
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FCOV6
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« Reply #15 on: January 09, 2010, 09:07:55 AM » |
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i am based in perth wa. currently have hr front disc but thinking of hq disc so not sure if that changes the bump steer issue. Anyway getting off the orginal topic of the cross member. Rod shop is closed until next week so will give them a buzz and report back their point of view for discussion.
I have a front mount rack with HQ stubs and VN commodore discs in my FC, i used the short PS steering arms . Not on the road yet so cant comment on bump steer although i previously had HR stubs with LJ torana hubs/discs and it all fits perfectly. |
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mcl1959
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« Reply #16 on: January 09, 2010, 12:53:18 PM » |
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You will find it difficult to get a caliper to fit the Commodore discs. CRS use an adapter kit for this.
Torana gear fits well on HR stubs. HK to HZ brakes fit fine on HQ stubs. CRS and Hoppers Stoppers all use adapter kits to fit later rotors.
You should check bump steer before you go on the road.
Remove front spring from car attach a pointer or some such measuring device to the front wheel and move the wheel up & down through the complete travel. There should be minimal or no change in the pointer horizontally, only vertically.
Ken
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