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grey58fc
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« on: December 16, 2009, 10:01:56 PM » |
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G'Day guys n Girls,
i was just wondering, if i lowering the effie 2" on lowering blocks bought off ebay, what would be the biggest wheels i could fit under the rear arches withouttubbing? i just wanna give my car a bit more of an aggressive stance so i was thinking maybe 15's or 16x8(??) on the rear and 15x5's on the front.. what offset and stuff like that isrequired? and what is the exact stud pattern of a FC 5x114 ive heard but i dont think this is true.
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mcl1959
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« Reply #1 on: December 17, 2009, 10:09:15 AM » |
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Generally 7's on the rear and 6's on the front. You will have to roll the guard lips to help with clearance. You need an offset similar to stock FC rims, without a huge dish in them, ie the fronts want to be as close to the tie rod as you can go and the rears want to be spaced evenly between the inner & outer guards. The FC stud pattern is 5 x 4.25 inches (107.95 mm)
There is not much choice around in larger diameter wheels with early Holden stud pattern
Ford is 5 x 4.5 inches (114.3 mm)
HQ / Chev is 5 x 4.75 inches (120.65 mm)
Commodore is 120 mm
Ken
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grey58fc
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« Reply #2 on: December 17, 2009, 05:24:51 PM » |
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thanks heaps mate!
really handy!
i really wanna set of those old skool looking "dragway wheels" i think theyre called, theyre five spoked and the spokes are like rounded and not 100% sure what theyre actually called, but ill know when i find them and then all the info/advice youve sent me will really come in handy!
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waynos
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patience grasshopper
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« Reply #3 on: December 17, 2009, 06:52:31 PM » |
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mate they sound like dragways .maybe you could get them in 15 inch ,not so sure though.
i'm running 14 x 7 inch steelies on a 4 3/4 backspace with 225 65 tyres on back,and lipped guards .
you can just run ya fingers between tyre and guards,doesn t scrub unless under lots of load
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The grinder is mightier than the sword.
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grey58fc
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« Reply #4 on: December 17, 2009, 08:28:57 PM » |
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yeah i had steelies off my hk premmy on it with big wide whitewalls, but only problem was.. the car didnt move because they scrubbed so hard on the suspension components, are back spacers legal? cos id love to get those wheels back on it! only need to space out the frontend like 5 mil
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FC427
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« Reply #5 on: December 17, 2009, 08:56:34 PM » |
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Spacers are a NO NO you can get the centers moved in the rims to change the back space so they fit ......FC427.......
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As I lay rubber down the street I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide please dear god protect my ride
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grey58fc
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« Reply #6 on: December 17, 2009, 08:57:49 PM » |
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hahaha yeah.. maybe. lol except im 16 and currently unemplyed, so..... $$$$$$$ is close to zero at the moment hahaha ill check everything out, might just buy different wheels
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CraigA
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« Reply #7 on: December 17, 2009, 08:58:45 PM » |
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My XU1 has factory fitted spacers.....................
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grey58fc
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« Reply #8 on: December 17, 2009, 09:00:44 PM » |
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really?? so i could get away from the po-po by saying there a factory item???
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CraigA
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« Reply #9 on: December 17, 2009, 09:09:43 PM » |
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I think the concern isn't so much the police but the extra loads that pushing the wheels out further will create. Wheel studs and wheels bearings especially. If you only need a couple of mm I can't see how it would be a problem however if you need more than that then FC427 is spot on. His idea is the best answer. FYI the factory XU1 spacers are 2mm each, not much in theory and the last LJ XU1's had two on the front and two on the back. Mines in the first 100 LC XU1's built so only has one on the front. You can buy these as repro's from here |
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grey58fc
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« Reply #10 on: December 17, 2009, 09:16:39 PM » |
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thanks heaps man, so if i put two on each side at the front it would be a go-er for my premier wheels?  hahahah there not much biggr wheels just that there square edged radials look a lil tougher and aggresive, which in the art of female chasing and "lapping" the main drag of ballarat, the skinny cheese cutters probably wont do it! |
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FC427
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« Reply #11 on: December 17, 2009, 09:16:55 PM » |
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Think metal spacers are OK if welded to the rim , would be a lot cheaper than moving the centers if money it tight ......FC427.....
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As I lay rubber down the street I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide please dear god protect my ride
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grey58fc
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« Reply #12 on: December 17, 2009, 09:24:58 PM » |
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yeah thats probably right, thanks heaps for the advice guys hahahah is tricky being the only bloke my age not into fully sick "falcommodores" and turbo rockets hahah when i talk about carbies my mates say "is dat like injectors on my calais" hahah so this is all a big help!
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CraigA
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« Reply #13 on: December 17, 2009, 11:05:40 PM » |
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which in the art of female chasing and "lapping" the main drag of ballarat, the skinny cheese cutters probably wont do it! OK, I get it now. You'll also need a bag of cement on each inner guard to lower the front. Shut the bonnet and everyone will think its been professionally lowered Two other things you'll need - the choke pulled slightly out (simulates bigger cam) and a screwdriver through the muffler (fat exhaust noise). Oh, and a packet of condoms. See, you clearly ain't gunna get that sort of advice from your Commondoor mates.  Good on you for being a young bloke into old Holdens. |
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grey58fc
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« Reply #14 on: December 18, 2009, 09:52:13 AM » |
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hahahahaha i didnt think bout that!
hahahahahah or i could just ghetto it and crack out the hack saw and cut the springs in the front hahahaha
nuh my dad is paying for a good sounding exhaust system, but ill lower the arse with some 2.5 inch lowering blocks!
when its all done, ill post some photos, at the moment im getting all the rust off the floor with a wire wheel!!! FILTHY job hahahahah
thanks for the advice mate!
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Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius
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« Reply #15 on: December 18, 2009, 10:30:01 AM » |
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You'll also need a bag of cement on each inner guard to lower the front. Shut the bonnet and everyone will think its been professionally lowered A cheaper alternative is to head down the local primary school with 4 sacks and raid the sandpit |
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grey58fc
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« Reply #16 on: December 18, 2009, 11:11:33 AM » |
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yeeesss!!!! awesome form stinky! hahahahaah
i think thats a lil far! hahaha and i live in a country town hahaha so as soon as the sandpit got raided im sure thered be a linching or the good ol boys fire up the utes and grab the pitchforks hahahaha
by the way? where are your guys getting this from? speaking from experience?
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Ed
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« Reply #17 on: December 18, 2009, 11:33:27 AM » |
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or i could just ghetto it
Go ghetto!  |
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in the shed
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grey58fc
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« Reply #18 on: December 18, 2009, 11:41:55 AM » |
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i would willingly on anything but my beloved 58 hahahahahah but i do wanna lower it haha i might just have to save up and scrounge money, but i think i will lower it professionally? or just raid a sandpit hahahahaha
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waynos
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patience grasshopper
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« Reply #19 on: December 18, 2009, 05:27:20 PM » |
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as ed said,GO GHETTO! just to add a spanner in the works,i have been reading a chassis engineering book by herb adams and there is a page dedicated to lowering your car with an oxy! being a metal fabricator myself i have thought this the biggest no no. in the book he cut the top spring then heated the top 1/4 or so of the coil then smashes it on the ground to flatten it. of my knowledge the grain structure will change in the heated zones but your spring load shouldn't change as the bit youv'e flattened is only to seat it,so the change in grain structure would affect your spring load so minimally it would not be noticed. still i am very sceptical . mate if ya broke, chop it with a 4 inch grinder with a 1 mm cutting blade(i didn't say that did i)  |
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The grinder is mightier than the sword.
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