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Author Topic: Firestreak Manifold & Twin Carbs  (Read 5672 times)
grey58fc
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« on: October 28, 2009, 04:29:56 PM »
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does anyone know where in victoria, preferably in melbourne where a set of twin strombergs ona firestreak manifold could be refurbished and restored?
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mcl1959
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« Reply #1 on: October 28, 2009, 05:51:48 PM »
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Wilson carburetors in Airport West

Ken
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vmx-mxr
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« Reply #2 on: October 28, 2009, 08:46:56 PM »
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G'day 'Grey58'

I can vapour blast (glass beads in water) your manifold and put a finish on it as close to the original as cast finish as you will find. Durable and easier to clean too!

I am in Sydney but I have a lot of interstate guys sending me stuff - cheaper than the petrol to drive across town, lol!

Dave Mac 0416074750
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FC427
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« Reply #3 on: October 28, 2009, 10:51:44 PM »
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Dave is Vapour Blasting similar to wet sand blasting with a glass media  Huh Huh.....FC427.......
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vmx-mxr
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« Reply #4 on: October 29, 2009, 02:09:16 PM »
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G'day FC,

Vapour blasting, water abrasive blasting, aqua blasting (and probably other names) is essentially abrasives carried in water and directed at the object to be restored under pressure delivered by pumps within the machine (to activate the mixture through the machine) and high pressure air (to give the mixture the required speed to get the required finish) .

Most blasting materials can be used but my machine is dedicated to glass bead only - sand is way too harsh for alloys and given the range of abrasives available (esp aluminium oxide and garnet) doubt too many would use it and if they do it is a dry cabinet or room.

Steel shot peening is also used but primarily for surface stabilisation eg con rods etc and is also done in a dedicated cabinet.

I choose to only use glass bead as it gives a fantastic finish and by only using one type of blasting material the finish is consistent although I am looking at a couple of options that are compatable. The machine also has a soluble cleaning agent in the solution so the surface comes out very clean and far less aggressive to the metal be it an alloy or steel.

The finish on cast products such as manifolds has to be seen to be believed. Compared to dry blasting oil and grime can be easily wiped off as the surface is far more stable. When you look at the surface of the blasted metal under an engineers microscope you see a whole lot of sherical depressions overlapping whereas when you look at a dry bead blast finish you see a lot of jagged cratering caused by beads shattering on impact. Water blasting minimises this as the water and additives cushion the bead on impact. Pity I don't know how to post pics on here or could show some before and afters.

Check out this dude in the UK - a good site. http://icmhome.org.uk/index.html

Wet bead blasting over dry blasting (which I used to do but now use that machine for aluminium oxide mainly on steel items) has the advantage of less impregnation of the surface and minimal residue in holes but for the most part common sense dictates they be plugged.

Without getting into a slanging match here the water blasting generally achieves a superior finish to soda blasting but for me soda blasting is the ideal for whole of panel blasting etc (besides while my machine is a good size panel etc are too big for it) as it is far less aggressive than dry blasting of panels.

SAFETY NOTE - On the subject of sand (which is now illegal as a commercial blasting medium).

If you do use sand in say a small hand-held gun to do rust spotting etc RESPIRATORY PROTECTION (air supplied respirator with a hood or a helmet and visor) MUST MUST MUST be worn. When normal sand impacts to powder it creates a dangerous dust which will cause silicosis - google it - bad shit!

Sorry for a long winded answer but I have had a few inquiries! Hope this helps.

Dave Mac
 
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FC427
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« Reply #5 on: October 29, 2009, 02:29:11 PM »
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Thanks Dave I know about the dangers of using sand as a media .. I have a small cabinet and use garnet and glass with good results with low pressure....When soda is used on metal panels doesn't it leave a film on the panel that has to be removed because it causes problems with paint adhesion Huh ....FC427.....
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vmx-mxr
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« Reply #6 on: October 29, 2009, 02:40:40 PM »
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Hi again FC

The film would be a residue of the soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) and it is water soluble so couldn't see an issue but then again I don't use that process.

My guess is a good going over with warm water and a pressure cleaner would do the trick - perhaps someone will know and help us on this one?

Glad to hear you don't use sand mate - it's the pits!

With you cabinet at home try dropping the delivery pressure right down and you will get a finish close to the water blaster but it will take a long time - the aim is not to smash the beads.

Dave Mac
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